Montana Z

I do have the idle set a little higher as the FSM calls for. Regarding the transmission swap, I do plan to change the diff at the same time. One small hurdle is finding someone to rebuild it in my area. It feels smooth in all gears and doesn't appear to have any metal in the fluid, but prior to putting it in I would like someone to go through it. Transmission work is beyond my scope of mechanical confidence.

It's hard to explain... What I think I'm feeling is an intermittent hesitation, but it's barely perceptible. It pulls fine under throttle.

Unfortunately it's nothing too exciting. I got the SRT stage 1 engine which is an L28 block with P79 head. I also went with MSA 6 to two headers. The car had an automatic transmission in it when I purchased it 26 years ago. I promised that as soon as it failed I would put a manual in it, but that little slush box just refuses to die. I have a close ratio 5 speed and period correct 4 speed so when the day comes there will be some options. Aside from that she's pretty much stock.

Thanks, I'll look elsewhere for the source of the inconsistencies while cruising with steady throttle. Cheers, Scot

Hello all, I believe my oil pump is one or two teeth off due to the alignment of the distributor pin when #1 cylinder is at TDC. My question is whether or not it actually needs to be corrected. Can simply adjusting the orientation of the distributor correct this? My car is a 72 with SU carbs and I'm running a MSD unilite distributor on a Datsun Spirit 2.7 liter engine. It runs pretty well, but is difficult to start and seems to pull/ let off at light throttle while cruising. Thanks for any input. Cheers, Scot

You're welcome. Honestly it has been an honor and a pretty darn good time. I'll be retiring pretty soon so this is my final trip across the pond (in uniform). I suppose that is one of the reasons letting the Z go is so tough. I drove it to High school graduation, my first duty station, my wedding, the kids first days of school and so on and so forth. However, I'm not really a car collector and it seems the more I get it fixed up the less I drive it. I suppose I'll get that 5 speed in and see where it goes from there. Cheers, Scot

Thanks, that's probably a good idea. I plan to install the 5-speed when I get back from deployment. I'm really not too excited about messing with that dash again. I'm still a little traumatized about pulling and reinstalling it for the heater core. Who would have guessed an engine swap would be easier than the dashboard😧 Thanks again everyone for the thoughts/advice. Cheers, Scot

Thanks for that. I've really enjoyed you input on this site over the years. Cheers, Scot

Thank you for the feed back everyone. I have kept an eye on BAT and looked at the Hagerty valuation tool. As you folks likely know it is a little difficult to set aside emotional value. Additionally, if/when I sell it I want to make sure the buyer truly knows the car they are getting so I will likely attempt to find a person to person sale platform vs BAT. Regarding the interior, like the rest of the car it has been updated and is not original. When I redid the seats I went with leather, I refinished the steering wheel, it has new carpets, I replaced the heater core due to a leak, the dash has 3 cracks but I have an uncracked (though not perfect) dash in a box... you get the idea. Basically a nice driver that isn't heavily modified.

Hello folks, After 23 years of ownership I am considering parting with my Z car. However, I'm a little stumped on how to determine a price point. I know original cars can bring good money on BAT and know basket cases can be had relatively cheaply but mine is neither. It has some rust and some repairs that I'm not happy with, but I don't believe any are detrimental. I have the original engine but have it pulled due to low compression on one cylinder and there's a Datsun Spirit SRT stage 1 engine currently in the car. The car has an auto transmission, but I have a 4 speed as well as a close ratio ZX 5 speed waiting installation. And so on and so forth. Thanks in advance for any constructive input on how to value. Cheers, Scot

Don, Thank you so much for that very generous offer. Unfortunately I'm heading overseas fairly soon and at the moment don't have spare time to work the issue. My plan is to get it sorted when I get back (putting in a new to me 82 zx 5-speed is also on the list). Would it be alright if I reached out to you down the road when I have a little more spare time? Cheers, Scot

Update: I took my switch apart and it did show corrosion on one of the contacts. I sanded all contact points with 1200 grit paper reassembled and reinstalled. Unfortunately there was no change in the issue. I did remember that I have a spare dash with an emergency switch so I'll try swapping that in to see if there is ant change... thanks again! Cheers, Scot

Hello folks, I have a 72 240 (build date 11/71). My turn signals work, but when I turn the flashers on the left front does not illuminate. If I turn the flashers on and the left turn signal all four flash as they should. Any ideas on where to look/ how to fix? Thanks in advance for any input. Cheers, Scot

I have had good luck with the super siphon, just a few shakes and you have the gas flowing. https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Siphon-Safe-Multi-Purpose-Priming/dp/B000BG1X54/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_2/138-8540619-7869844?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000BG1X54&pd_rd_r=a9934f55-dff8-4208-9adb-6dad173d8582&pd_rd_w=sNOzJ&pd_rd_wg=KweD3&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=NNZESE92S9J85TBXHZV3&psc=1&refRID=NNZESE92S9J85TBXHZV3

I run SU and they are fine here. The elevation isn't too bad on the planned route. If you opt to run the car over going to the sun highway I would recommend leaning them out 1/4 turn. They'll be fine even if you don't, but mine do get a bit rich at 7000+ feet when the going is slow. Also there will be no fee this year due to Covid stuff. We just want to keep it simple for everyone. Cheers, Scot