Daishi_GD

I wasn't very impressed by Silver Mine Motors either. It became very apparent early on he's just some kid selling parts out of his apartment. I bought the front brake caliper and rotors off him and he said there was a delay on the rotors because he needed to get them drilled and coated? So... He's getting parts from who knows where and refurbishing them? Great. Sent me 2 packages. 1 with the smallest item (the wire cables) on their own instead of packing them in the big box with the rest? Who pays double for shipping?

Pop your hood - Take the coil wire that goes from the Distributor to the Coil. Easy to pop in and out.

Talked it over with some of my car guys. Gonna pass on this one. Thanks for the input. -M@

So there's a Robello built racing 240z racing engine ,L24 block, e31 head on my local CL for sale that caught my eye instantly. Here's the thing. I own a 280z and I've never heard of anyone doing a conversion from 280 to a 240 engine. It's always the other way around. What happens to my Fuel Injectors? What wiring harness would I need to use? Is this even reasonable? Also how can I find out what's street legal and not? I'm wondering about this because whenever I see rebuilt engines my friend is always saying "Its probably not street legal." -Cheers, all comments welcome.

Outer doesn't look too bad but keep in mind these car rot from the inside-out. Frame rails are a big one to lookout for(look at it from inside the front wheel wells and under the car). Check out the rear tire well too. Pics related.

I think it's personal preference. But just don't burn your leg on it if you choose to have it sticking out. I've heard too many stories...

Got this pen from a co-worker I guess she thought it kind of looked like my car so it'll stay in my car. That's about it for Christmas... But for my birthday(was the 27th) I bought myself some headers, exhaust, mirrors and a new rear deck mat!

Not sure why but all the rust seems to be on the driver side... Passenger side everything seems very solid. I've been trying to learn more about this car and what parts would fix what. Frame Rail & Floorboard are two things that come up often enough. But I'm don't know if I need those items? :stupid: Would picking up either of those go towards and/or fix the rust in the wheel well? Or is it a custom cut&weld to fix? That to me was my biggest concern. Some more pictures of the only rust spots on the body that can be seen on the exterior. Thanks for the input so far. Feeling a bit less stressed... I really do want to put all my time(blood sweat and tears) into the car.

Two more things I thought worth showing.

You can see my front bumper shock on the bottom left. I dared to touch that rust and it turned to dust. I just don't know what type of trouble I'm getting into and was looking for some thoughts and advice from people that have knowledge about how to handle something like this. All comments welcome. Thanks again -M@

Here was my original thread regarding my worries http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39876 Finally snagged a digital camera for some pictures. I had always thought my car was pretty good for rust because it has a solid body. But once I found these a few months its had me worried sick day in and day out. Hope the pictures speak for themselves because I'm not sure how I'd explain it. That's the the inside of my front wheel well. Also is that little plate I found on the frame (right under the driver side)someones hack job band-aid? Not sure what that is... I know everything is fixable but how gone is too far gone?

Great video. Thanks for sharing that.

Second to last pictures the Z money shot ain't it

I need some opinions and advice on what I should do. I'm pretty stuck and not sure what to do. Overview: 1978 280Z - 99% stock 104k miles Stock L28 engine - New alternator. Manual 4-Speed 1 repaint by original owner. The car runs great. Bought from WA State and imported it to Vancouver, BC. Paid $3850 for the car. Starts on a dime and runs smoothly. I drove it for 3 months of the summer and is currently stored in my garage. Brakes squeal once they warm up(not sure why yet). I also think I have a blown shock. Bought from WA State and imported it to Vancouver, BC. Paid $3850 US for the car + paid around $800 for imports. It does have rust in the obvious spots. Spare tire hold - Under the paint. Not too bad. Frame Rail - Can be seen from inside the wheel well. Looks bad. Rear hatch seems to be rusted all around. Doesn't look too bad but flaking all over. It was love at first sight when someone drove past me with a Z on the parkway one day and I knew I had to have one at that point and I would like to own and baby one for all my years to come. This is my first car and I think I might have rushed buying it and having not done my homework I think I'm in trouble. Anyways Should I sell my car and cut my loses and find one in better shape overall? Or should I just keep what I got and fix things up. The rust really worries me because it seems to be the main thing that kills these cars. The cost of a new 5-speed transmission + rust/body work. Does it out-weigh selling mine and finding a new Z? I've done work on cars before and loved doing what I could for my Z whenever I could. I fully understand nothing is perfect and everything needs work one way or another. I just don't make a lot of money and am not sure if I can afford to keep this Z to give it what it needs. All comments welcome. Thanks.

The Aim dam has duct's + Painted Fiberglass Bumpers and with Headlight covers. Its more or less this one http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AP/50-1502 Most look for a Z.

I ended up buying anyways. I'll put it on the next day I have off and post some pictures.

Needs a lil help guys. Found this on my local CL for sale for a good price considering its painted + good condition. Only thing is the owner has no name or no pictures of what it looks like on a 240/260/280. And so I can't tell what it would look like on my 280. If anyone recognizes please post pictures? All comments welcome. Thanks.

Just found these posted on the local CL. http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/nvn/pts/1932461773.html http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/nvn/pts/1932456022.html http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/nvn/pts/1932449855.html http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/nvn/pts/1932411705.html I'm interested in that air dam. Does anyone know what that Air Dam looks like on a Z?

Damn those look amazing:love: ... Why do I have to be broke right now...

Looks very nice for anyone with an extra motor. http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/1859453553.html "SELLING AS A ROLLER!MINUS MOTOR AND GEARBOX,SET UP FOR SMALLBLOCK CHEVY AND TURBO 350! YOU WOULD BE HARD PRESSED TO FIND A NICER 240Z! TUBBED WITH 4 LINK AND COIL OVERS,NARROWED12 BOLT AND SPOOL,CAGE, I AM RETIRING FROM RACING! THIS CAR WILL BE SOLD TO THE BEST OFFER BY AUG 30 CALL MARK HUESTIS AT 360-616-4678 NO TIRE KICKERS OR CRAIG'S LIST FLAKES ,LO BALLERS ECT..... "

looks good. This is still something on my to do list. Where did you find your 240Z bumpers? Those look like they're in perfect shape!

Rear drum just comes off. There are no bolt. MAKE SURE YOUR HAND BRAKE IS DOWN! If it's stiff - Just turn it as you pull straight towards you. Wait...What?

I just pulled out the bulb for now...