cassio

Yes it's the 270/280 duration, 460 lift cam.

i guess the cam is simple enough to replace than i can throw the stock one in for now. i went ahead and already switched out the springs to the schneider ones already when i did the valve seals. nigel you got a link of info on a base cam setting for aftermarket cams. with a brand new chain i dont see why you wouldnt be able to set the aftermarket cam to the #1 setting.

Ya I actually found that info on another board but it was too late. The po actually included a new timing chain, tensioner and guides. Also the bigger cam, matching springs and retainers. Also set of valve seals. I ordered a water pump from a local parts store so I can also kncok that out. Replacing all this will ensure good mechanical timing. And hopefully not introduce any new issues do to the cam. Nigel, When u mentioned the different cam timing were u refering to a different ignition timing?

Ya I just wanted to have less work. Maybe I'm wrong but I didn't see how you can install a cam with out redoing the whole timing chain over again. When I took the cam pulley of the stock cam it was imposible to put it back on. As the tensioner is not accesable with the cover on.

So I pulled the cover off to check cam timing. And it was a bit off to the left and and it was already on it's last adjustment. So I went ahead and disassembled the front yo replace timing chain. While I'm at it I'm going to go ahead and install the 270/80 schneider cam the po included along with the schnieder springs. Once that's all done and the motor is truely on proper timing I'll update.

Chris: so with key on engine off ishould still get a spark when turning the dizzy? If that's true that will make checking for timing alot easier.

Your picture is not showing anything wrong. The crank makes one revolution for every half revolution of the distributor. So when ever the crank timing marks line up the distr. rotor will be pointing to either 1 or 6. I'm going to take the valve cover off today and check mechanical timing on the cam. But I doubt it's that as the car ran 2 days ago with the help of starting fluid.

Thank you but if you read my original post I have already set the motor to tdc and set the distributor timing as best as possible. And to repeat, it's a Mallory distributor so the top spins a full 360. So it's easy to have it in the wrong spot.

The inside of the motor has been left untouched. He actually included an aftermarket cams that he said he never got around to installing. My guess woould be timing also. Is number on cylinder the one closest to the front? Other than that I can't thing of anything I could have done wrong. And like you said I would think if anything was wrong with the carbs it would still do better than what I'm getting

I put 2 gallons in the tank of fresh gas and the online filters look clean. The wires are correct and one is pointing to the radiator. Now regarding the jets and float bowls. If those were an issue wouldn't it start with me spraying in starting fluid. It did yesterday

Hello my name is cassio Im from san antonio, TX. I decided to start looking for a z car a few months ago after getting to check out a friends. I sold my custom bobber that i built from scratch to fun the project. http://www.xs650chopper.com/2010/05/raw-and-simple/ as of 4 days ago i became the new owner of a 1975 280z that has been converted to weber triple carbs. the car is in decent shape and the privious owner included tons of spare parts and useful literature. however the car is not runing and after 3 days im starting to lose my patience. here's more info, please help me if you can! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=330285#post330285

hello guys i just purchased the car and everything was already as is. the previous owner installed the carbs and the ignition but never had the time to get it running. 1975 280z stock motor 40mm tripe weber carbs msd 6l ignition and coil new plugs and wires mallory distributor Here's where i've gotten to: I put a new battery in the car and tried starting it for the first time, car turned over but did nothing. after spining the distributor i was able to get some firing going on. using some start fluid and constantly spraying into the carbs i was able to keep car running for close to a minute. the next day i figured the jets were dirty so i pull the top off the carbs, remove jets clean them and reinstall them. i also set the air mix screw to 2 turns out. i set the motor at TDC and set the distributor as best i can by sight. Now car wont even come close to starting even with the starting fluid. fuel pressure: I just put in clean fuel in the tank and its getting to the carbs. A fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line is reading 3psi when the key is on and pump is priming. spark: checked spark at each plug and im getting strong spark at each one and consistent. the spark plugs were getting pretty black however so i had to take them out already once to clean. timing: cant really set the ignition timing since i cant get the car to idle. i am however putting the car at TDC and putting wire to cylinder one right on point and leaving it loose so i can move while cranking engine. (malory distributor allows me to spin entire cap) carbs: this is where the problem probably lies and i have no experience with them. i pulled the jets and cleaned them, also pulled the filter and clean them also. i set the air mix screws at 1 turn out, 1.5 out, 2 out, and 2.5 out and all give me no results. i checked for vacumm leaks but theres only 2 vacumm lines coming of the manifold and they are both fine. also the gasket for the manifold and carbs seem good and i gave them a extra snug to be sure. i get some popping and back firing from the carbs (literally fire coming out the carbs) but nothing. and like i said before i was able to get the car running yesterday by constantly spraying starting fluid into carbs.... now im lost any help will be great!!!