OhDearAudrey

The entire thing. Boot, rod and cylinder. I also replaced master cylinder recently as well.

Hey guys, I own a 77' 280 z and one morning the clutch system lost all pressure and locked into gear. I was able to get it off the road and inspected it for the cause of the issue. My slave cylinder under the passenger side was leaking fluid from the rubber boot side facing the rear of the car. I purchased a new part at a local auto parts store and installed it, inserting the metal rod into the boot like the one i took off. I bled the system and it tested good and i made it about 2 blocks before the clutch died again. upon looking under the car the boot had blown off and was pouring out of the boot. Is this just a bad cylinder, does that happen often or is something else the issue and it will blow the replacement one i install as well. Thanks!

Recently i have noticed an issue with my idle. when i turn the headlights on it gets very rough. The in dash voltmeter reads a little over 12 without them on, and goes to 12 when on. Two days ago i noticed the voltage was getting lower and lower as i was driving down the road until the car died. I replaced the battery and the alternator and the voltage still seems low. Is there a component i am missing? The only thing that has changed since i noticed the issue was i removed the cars after market cd player which no longer worked.

Anyone know of a website that would have a used wheel hub for a 77' 280z for the passenger front side? I have a post up on craigslist and the classifieds here, but am getting no bites. The only thing i am missing to get my car back on the road.

On the diagram after showing it to him. On the strut assembly he said i only need the part at the bottom. And on the axel diagram its part # 38 that i need. I'll check a junkyard when i get off otherwise if you have it available we can work something out.

You wouldnt happen to have a picture of what these might look like would you? Hes saying a knuckle OR a spindle hes not sure what it might be called. But researching, they are two different things.

So i took it to a shop and they said they are having problems finding the part. looking online i can't find the part he is talking about. Anyone know what it might be called? He said a Spindle / knuckle and something about the wheel bearing being welded to it. Looking online i can't find anything that fits that description.

So on the way to work this morning i heard this grinding noise from the front right side of my car. Almost to work i hear a crunch and the car pulls to the right. I brake to check it out and NO BRAKES! I stop with the E brake and park it. When i get out the front right tire is smoking and smells terrible. Also the camber is off. The tire is at an angle. Like this \ School starts on monday. This couldnt have happened at a worse time!

Hmm, Every now and then i get a gas smell. the exhaust isn't smoky at all. No backfires. Although it feels as if it will backfire at any moment with the way it runs. Under the hood everything looks fine. No oil leaks, or weird stuff i could tell.

Hey guys, i have a 77' 280, lately My car has been lurching forward / chugging / just running terribly. It used to do it sometimes when the engine warmed up but it has been really cold here lately so i didn't notice if it was doing it or not. But now it does it really bad whether the engine is warmed up or not. Other things i have noticed that may be related. sometimes the car takes a lot of time turning over to start and it feels like it won't start then it does. But the idle is very low. about 1k ish, and dropping lower then coming back up. Also my oil pressure seems a little higher then usual. But these things could have nothing to do with the main problem that the car runs terribly!

Before i shell out any more money, Could a bad starter be the cause of all these problems, a local shop called to tell me i had a bad starter. The battery draining over night i can see, but the car losing power when i turn on the headlights? How much should this cost also? Would rather just do it myself then pay 300 dollars plus for them to bolt on a starter.

So, replaced the voltage regulator. Still the same problem. Using a multimeter on the battery running with the radio and lights off is 13.20 V when i turn the lights on it just starts dropping. I watched it go down to the 11s before we shut them off. Let the battery charge back up to 13.20 and shut the car off. Tried to restart car a few minutes later and it will not start. Multimeter says there is still a drain on the battery when the car is off. But i didn't watch it long enough to see how far it would drop. Add on accessories in the car are power locks installed by PO and a Cd player installed by PO. Speakers behind the seats and speakers in the doors installed by PO. The driver side speaker was removed and i replaced the door panel. The wires that were connecting the speaker are in the door. (Could this be discharging battery?) My fusible links do not look like they look in my manual. They look like they have been crimped together with one of those Plastic covered copper sleeves. Also electrical tape on the wires. If these even are the fusible links. But i didn't find anything else in that area that could be what i saw in my hanes. I'll post a picture of them. I am really missing my daily driver as now i can't get to work without a ride >:I so any help would be much appreciated.

Alternator and battery are both less then a year old, Been fighting Electrical gremlins for a while, first thinking alternator, then battery. But neither fixed the problem for more then a couple of months.

Ok so it DOES have a voltage regulator, just not in the place my manual said it was. Was under this giant bracket. The battery with the car off and the regulator disconnected is 10.20 when i plug in the regulator it starts ticking down as i watch the meter, from 10.20 down to 10.10 and lower i just didn't feel the need to watch it any longer. Does that mean that the regulator is bad, just grounding out my battery's charge? If it is bad should i buy another one or upgrade the alternator to the 80s ZX model with the internal regulator? From the closest auto parts store to my house a new regulator is like 51 dollars.

Will get some pictures up today since i won't be doing much today as the car will not start. Last night the car died when i turned the headlights on, but ran without them. After looking through my haynes manual, and digging around in the forums there is a device that i can't seem to find on my car, the "voltage regulator" will a z run without one? I seem to just have a ball of wires. Like i said, i'll get some pics up.

Yeah sorry, it's a 77' 280

Can anyone post a picture of what their stock wiring looks like near the battery, My PO went Frankenstein under there and i am having electrical issues. I replaced the alternator a few months back because the car wouldn't start. The volt meter in car rode right above 12 while driving, after replacing the alternator it was way past the 16. about 2 months ago the car started getting harder to start and the volt meter riding back down near the 12 then it died on me. I replaced the battery and then back past 16. Now same symptoms again, Very dim headlights while driving, gauges are very dim as well, meter is nearing the 12, and it turns over for a while before starting.

Thanks for the advice, Really appreciate it.

Why? The car had 0 problems before i took it in, now it's leaking fuel all over the place and the throttle is stuck. It was my daily driver, now it is un-driveable. Is it too much to ask for it in at least the same condition i dropped it off in? If someone comes to your house to mount a tv on the wall, and they get it up but afterwards the power in the rest of your house doesn't work, is that OK? I mean they installed the TV just like you asked, but maybe the wiring was old so it's ok to let it slide? I may not be a mechanic, i work on computers. A bit nerdier then a mechanic but if you bring me a computer and ask me to install some memory, but when you get it back it no longer turns off. Thats ok though, just go buy yourself a new motherboard or whatever and install it yourself, you will learn a lot. Your case was dusty and the processor slow so i don't know why you bothered doing a performance upgrade anyway. I expect to get whatever i give for a service to be rendered back in the same condition it was given. Not, hey thanks for installing that exhaust, i mean nothing else works anymore but by-golly it sure looks pretty under there keeping my driveway warm. This is not a personal attack on you, you just a hit a nerve. That's the same answer the mechanic gave me: "Well i did what you asked"

As it turns out, it turns out terrible. So the car Idles at 2 - 2.5k rpms now, from about 1 before, sounds like I'm just stepping on the gas. it's tougher to get it going when starting from stopped, before it was so smooth and easy like it was an automatic almost, now it starts to shudder and die when i give it gas. It runs hotter now, i don't know if that's because the heat shield was removed, but the needle used to sit when warmed up at the first leg of the M in TEMP now its at the last leg. And the biggest problem of all, there is fuel leaking out of the Rail, from what i could tell bubbling out of a little circle cannister in the center of the race track shaped metal tubes. And not just a little leak, a drive home cost me half a tank of gas and its a steady drip, i made a video, and have pictures. I called the shop owner, he seemed reluctant to do anything calling my car a "piece of $^!#" and cussing me out. Saying it wasn't his fault the hoses and piece were brittle, and that he took a hit on the car because of all the extra labor he had to put in it because he didn't know what he was doing. I finally got him to agree to bring his mechanic to my house, but he swears there was no gas leaking out at the shop. Ignore My rusty Trailer hitch mount, the prev owner welded it onto a bracket that i can't take off, but that's an issue all in itself. Any advice, What a pain in the arse. http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/imanarud/chris/IMAG0012.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/imanarud/chris/IMAG0010.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/imanarud/chris/IMAG0009.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/imanarud/chris/IMAG0007.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/imanarud/chris/IMAG0006.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/imanarud/chris/IMAG0005.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/imanarud/chris/IMAG0004.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/imanarud/chris/IMAG0002.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/imanarud/chris/IMAG0001.jpg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSUcJJSLZ2Q

Yeah i gave them the stud kit from MSA, I should be picking it up at 4 i'll let you guys know how it turns out.

Alright guys, i took it to get the system done, The place i took it to was recommended. And they said they knew what they were doing. A week later still no car and the answers i get on the phone as to why it isn't done when they said it would be make it clear they have no idea what they are doing on an old z car. My question is what should i look for BEFORE i leave the shop? I'm scared of them like dropping a bolt into my engine after taking the manifold off or breaking a stud off but just not getting it out or something crazy, or rushing it and screwing something up because i called a couple of times. They replaced the header and put a new exhaust system off, so removal of the intake was necessary, so any tips would be appreciated.

Not entirely sure on the Materials used, or what materials it prints with, but you can find tutorials to build yourself one of these machines online and the cost in parts is 300 - 500ish they are pretty popular in the Do it yourself / hacker type crowds. Like http://www.makerbot.com/ Or have it made for you http://www.shapeways.com/ Like i said not sure on the specifics of it, just know it's possible to build one in your garage.

Anyone happen to know the size of the bolts, or wrenches ill need, so i can go get them.

Are open ended wrenches easier then a socket wrench?