Marsh

OK I just looked and your right, I can't find any data to support that that is a Haldex. I've had this conversation before when someone was trying to understand how a Torsen worked. I responded that he had it right. Another person said he had it wrong. Turns out the other person was only aware of the type of diff you are posting a link too, which is NOT a Torsen. He told me it was a Haldex. It is, however, what Quafe uses. I've heard of Torsen type-2, but I have no idea what that is. Maybe it's what's described in your link, and what I'm calling Haldex. The first time I've ever heard of this type of diff was in that previous conversation, which you can read here: http://londonautoclub.org/web_forum/viewtopic.php?t=9275&highlight=torsen EDIT: AH-HA! The zexel site was much more helpfull. Yes, what I am calling a Haldex is infact a Torsen Type-2. The Torsen that I am experienced with is a Torsen Type-1 (what was just called a Torsen when I first took one apart). See the 2nd page of this PDF: http://www.torsen.com/files/Torsen%20Traction%20Differential%20Technical%20Sheet.pdf

I know how they work. Take a good look at the second image in the link 260DET posted. It's the same type as what you just posted. These are Haldex/Quafe type diffs (I might be wrong about Quafe being the same, but that is a Haldex). THIS is a Torsen: http://www.sonic.net/garyg/zonc/TechnicalInformation/TorsenDifferential.html They both work on the same basic principle, but they arrange how the motion is transfered differently. Typically the Torsen is larger and thus a little heavier.

That is a Haldex style diff.

Sorry to drag up and old thread, but it's 350 according to a friends site: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/563982

I'm currently shopping for a 240 for a Solo car and occasional parade/street use. I'm finding alot of info, but one thing I couldn't answer was what makes the R200 diff so much stronger than the R180. Besides the LSD availabillity (since I'll likely buy a Quaife or other Torsen or Haldex type diff) is it simply the difference in ring diameter that makes the R200 stronger? BTW I'll also eventually get custom gears made for it, as there is a VERY good local shop for that where I live. P.S... While I'm at it, I'm looking for all the pictures and descriptions I can find of different exhaust setups (in particular I remember hearing about a duel exhaust using a 6-2 header, without a collector, keeping dual all the way back that sounded intriguing) and custom suspension. I will build my own suspension components, but I've never worked with MacPherson strut and would like to see some images of other peoples custom made spindle/strut-tube assemblies

I would hardly call hot lapping a road course an autocross? This is what a "Snow Slalom" looks like: http://www.wosca.com/pictures-slalom-2004-Winter.htm

13.9 is too fast for that car with simple bolt ons. It takes a lot of money to get a Prelude in the 13's without laughing gas. My 195hp 97 runs mid 15's consistently with the rare 14.9. That's with R-compound tires BTW.

I'm fairly certain that turbos are designed to work at MUCH higher rpm than a centrifugal blower, and driving a turbo via a belt would not produce any real boost.

Perfect! Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for!

Ok, so I'm reading through all the various forums and learning alot (BIG forum you've got here). But I'm having trouble keeping up with all of the engine talk. Can someone list of all the Z-car engine block codes (lie L28 F45 etc.) and what model those engines came in? Also the advantages/disadvantages of each one. Like "this one doesn't rev as well", "this one has lubrication issues with high rpm applications" etc. Or better yet if someone can point me to a good FAQ with all of this Jaz (I'm really surprised at how hard it's been to find a good faq, in the Honda community they are everywhere). Thanks again,

Hmm food for thought, thanks... One last thing. I remember reading somewhere that they sorted out a diff, durability problem by relocating the diff in 73. Is this common knowledge, or did I missinterpret what I read?

What makes the difference in weight? Is there actually extra steel in them, or do they simply have a lot of extra stuff in them? It will be stripped and have a cage installed.

I'm thinking very seriously of buying a 240 to turn into a dedicated track car (kept streetable, for a little while anyway), and I can't seem to find a good FAQ on the slight differences between model years. For sentimental reasons I would greatly prefer a 73, but this isn't an absolute since I will be building a race car, and all I really need is a frame and body. So is there a good reason why I should or shouldn't be looking for a 73? Also, what would be the hot engine to swap in, if I'm going to stay with a Z engine. Should I keep the 240 and build it? I see a ton of people build up 280s and swap them. Why is this? Is it an ultimate power issue, or a weight issue? Sorry for the all the newby questions.