Everything posted by bounce
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best way to confirm gas to carbs?
I would say, life is too short to get in an Internet spat.... lighten up, smile, and rise above Mr. Phoenix... you could crash your Z off the Canyon tomorrow.....and then how would you feel about this mish mash.... I want you around
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cylinder #1 is closest to the radiator right?
yeah, yeah, I heard you...if that's how your avatar Z looks with using the Haynes manual, no thanks. heheh Just kidding bud. I've got two manuals and I'll be stopping by autozone as I let my fingers do the walking to find Haynes in town...but...I have genes that restrict the use of manuals prior to messing with stuff...hopefully I won't break...
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cylinder #1 is closest to the radiator right?
http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html
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best way to confirm gas to carbs?
yeah, I put new plugs in there yesterday....too bad I didn't get to the carb bowls themselves...I was stuck dinking with the apparati that's mounted on top of the carbs....strangest looking carbs I'd ever seen......upside down float, big long needle, atf as dampner fluid.....as burnt black as they were they looked like chainsaw pistons.... anyways the little windows on the carbs are two tiny clear palstic circles about 5/8's of in inch....around the circumference of the circle, (inside the carb) window you can see movement , rotational, when opening/closing the throttle linkage everyone have a good weekend....I'll be dreaming of carb floats, fuel and spark problems, the sexy curves of the Z, the hummm of the motor...and day dreaming of fender flares, deep dish rims and mikuni six-pack carbs...
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best way to confirm gas to carbs?
TOMORROW!!! is the day....
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cylinder #1 is closest to the radiator right?
just back checking myself.... yay or nay? cylinder 6 is closest to the firewall?
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best way to confirm gas to carbs?
I think I'm dangerous around these carbs....around this car without a manual.... what's that fluid on top of the carbs? is it dot3? with the little black screw top lids that says finger tighten? I thought it was stabil that I have dumped into a possibly empty tank then tried to start it....but no....it doesn't smell like Stabil...and my fuel filter on the right hand side fender well is full of good clean fuel .... I cleaned off the windows on the side of the carbs but do not see fuel sitting there...I can only see a some motion around the circum. of the window when opening the butterflys....pushing accelerator down.... so i took off the base of the air filter housing....and the three screwed "float bowls?" and could see the butterfly on the carbs... i dumped the red fluid onto a rag out of the float bowl...so that needs to be refilled.... bottom line...: I've got fuel to the filter in the engine bay, but still do not know if I'm getting proper flow to the carbs... I will research and try to find the fuel line to the carbs themselves and do the miracle whip jar test.... lazy question: what manual do I buy, where, and can I paypal it? or does someone have one they wanna sell/ship for a paypal payment?
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distributor "tune up" parts?
that wire comes with the spark plug wire set correct? it is new....
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best way to confirm gas to carbs?
well I think I'm smelling gas in the engine compartment because I've been trying to start the motor for about 15 minutes....I though the fuel pump was knock-knocking away and pushing gas up to the carbs....and then it was going back to the tank and leaking...but it could have also been leaking because I added gas to the half full tank... and no, I only added maybe about a gallon.... I'm going to figure out how to confirm there's gas actually arriving at the carbs....any ideas?
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best way to confirm gas to carbs?
no, I was told it had half a tank before winter....and with me adding about a gallon...it leaked for a little bit from the rear vent hose attachment...so I still think it has half a tank...allthough the gauge says it's closer to a quarter now...(yeah, it started working again)
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distributor "tune up" parts?
I have new 7mm wires and new plugs, new battery
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best way to confirm gas to carbs?
I smell gas in the engine area when trying to start but still have the base of the air filter attatched to the su carbs on my 240.... if I am starting to troubleshoot a fuel issue after eliminating spark as a problem how do I proceed? also, is there a return fuel line which would somehow endup back at the rearmost vent hose line on the gastank? I put some gas in it the other day and noticed it was leaking at that rear vent hose after giving up on starting it for the day... Either it was caused by me adding gas to the tank or all the work the fuel pump was doing when trying to start.... any input? thanks fellas... I've been doing my searches on the forum but not having such a great keyword hunt....
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distributor "tune up" parts?
I'm going to order points/condenser, distributor cap and rotor....are these four parts what I need to eliminate my spark hunting endeavor? (and then I'll address the fuel aspects of troubleshooting) it seems that way...but more so as far as changing out these parts for new ones....it's good practice to get new ones with a new car purchase?? they do look worn....there was buildup between the points.. I cannot see spark on plug one when removed..but I'm getting good spark from the coil...
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almost there....awakening the z from wintersleep
well...I did not have the firing order reversed....it was setup correctly apparenty... CC 153624 from the 12'0clock beginning.... I replaced the plugs, and tried to see any spark on plug number one with it resting ontop of the valve cover but no joy...could not hear nor see an arc...in broad daylight however.... the points are opening and closing all though I don't know what the gap should be...but it looked like a 32nd of an inch was the gap...as a piece of 50lb test monofiliment fishing line did not fall out from between the points but a piece of paper did...
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almost there....awakening the z from wintersleep
super....I actually just walked over to my mechanic's and picked up a new set of plugs as well.... this Z was purchased by the PO a year ago...drove it during the summer months, and then it sat over winter up here in Flagstaff...then i just bought it a week ago...they were adamant that it ran fine prior to winter... I don't think the plugs were ever changed by PO because of the wear showing underneath all the goop I cleaned off them...decent amount of metal loss... I'll check for plug spark today.... also to make sure I have the firing order right....I need to confirm the beginning location to start the 153624 order..... is it not the most forward (12 o'clock) plug wire position on the distributor cap? I see some markings on the cap and am starting from there; ..identical to the photo I found online here....lemme find the link....woah! I found another picture with the firing order counterclockwise...I think I copied a photo of clockwise =firing order earlier...hmmm...I may have slex dixia.... hey, I'm going home right now to confirm the correct firing order and make sure I didn't run it clockwise!!!
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almost there....awakening the z from wintersleep
so, I replaced the ignition coil and was happy to see spark from "secondary ignition" test with chasis/body ground.... is it not the beginning of secondary when it comes out of the ignition coil? anywho, there was a strong spark from the coil now.... trying to crank: I heard a couple of detonations on two occasions while cranking but nothing more as far as trying to get her started.... so I checked the plugs and they were highly fouled with carbony goop... I've never seen such coagulation before.....black tar.... I cleaned the plugs off and only heard a couple of coughs while trying to start it after letting her sit for the time it took me to pull plugs, clean'em off, and plug'em back in.... so it only coughed a couple times during the very first crank , and after that it did not during cranking attempts... the rotor is turning, but I have not confirmed spark at the plugs, as I only tried to put a screwdriver in plug #1 plug and could not see any arcing going on yesterday afternoon... what step should I perform now as far as testing power from the distributor? if I heard a couple coughs from the motor, I'm at least getting some spark off the plugs....the gas smell near the carbs doesn't smell like varnish.... plug wear is telling there is too much oil entering the chamber....will a new set of plugs and some engine running time/ then look at the plugs again be a good indicator of ring condition? OR!!... should I get the Z towed into town to my mechanic???
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Coil voltage drops from 10 to 6 when cranking
k, I'm not getting spark out of the coil to the distributor.... I have a new battery. a volt meter plugged into the two terminals that attach to the coil gives me a reading of 10 volts with key On, and drops to 6 volts whilst cranking/ starting.... if I'm getting that voltage in to the coil...and nothing is coming out when testing for spark with the coil to distributor wire..(looking for arc on chasis/body)...could it be the ignition coil?
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Coil voltage drops from 10 to 6 when cranking
240z 71 is that really bad ? or normal? is it an ignition switch contact?
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240 gas leaking ?
looks like there's no coil spark.....I've removed it to test at mechanics or just replace it... the Z was running but sat all winter long under some snow.... I was hoping to get it running just to drive it to the mechanic... exterior of the gas tank looks decent..
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240 gas leaking ?
ok, got new battery and the plug wires connected... tried to start it and no go.... fuel gauge was empty...so I put some gas in it, but the previous owner said it had half a tank...when I shook the car I could hear what I guess is the sending unit in the tank? is it a floating type sender? anyways...I put more gas in the tank and it started leaking at the rubber hose/hose clamp fitting on the rear of the gas tank......(near the muffler/bumper?) so I figure the tank was really empty prior to me putting gas in it... can I pull the hose clamp/hose and re-cut the hose, re-mount the line and check for leak, add gas? lastly, for the wiring order on the distro cap...it looks like #1 goes at 12 o'clock, 360 degrees, north..whatever you want to call the most front facing plug on the cap?... there is also an S I believe on the distro cap...does that mean anything? I copied the wiring order from someone's 240 microsoft paint picture on here... 15 36 24 ?? thanks...B
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what are the make/model of those rims...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240z-260z-280z-14inch-four-bolt-mag-wheels-/260633114993?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_100&hash=item3caef1b971 these rims...
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what spray can primer is recomendable?
22.55$ for 6 cans? is that a good price? rustoloeum self etching? thanks.. do we have a board sponsor that sells paints for good price ?
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what spray can primer is recomendable?
I was hoping that cheap stuff will work...but , rust oleum? better stuff? pray tell?...hthaks
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what are the make/model of those rims...
the rims with several holes in them , like on ChrisZ's signature pic....? I love that style and might want to switch from mine...which, btw are called??? thanks for your help, george
- my NEW 500$ 240ZZZee!