bounce

wow... same here even more...@ 40 degrees change

my 240 will for the majority of it's drives..stay above 7000 feet. Home is 7300 and work is @7000.....

no film yet fellas, but HEY!....I didn't refill the dampner oil when I received the refurbed carbs...makes a difference already...no pop on rapid throttle movement... balancing again this weekend.

you had a good idea...find another Z with title and now you have spare parts for it! but swapping VIN is bad..mkay?

I'll see what the cellphone camera can tell ya tomorrow. thanks for the help.

hmm...I bent the tab out of the way....but I'm not getting a pronounced response from my adjustments...it takes a full turn or more...on high altitude needles? bogging on test drive at half throttle/ mid band

I dialed the jets all the way to the top and then down 2.5 turns...did the quickNdirty piston push on each carb and had to richen a little bit on both carbs to keep the motor running with one carb disabled... took it for a test drive and have hesitation/luggin at mid acceleration/ ... never got over 35 mph though.... but I think I'm rich...thoughts? I do have high altitude needles....

71 240z, refurrbed carbs from ZTherapy it seems like I'm giving these mixture knobs full turns to get any response from the motor and then I'll back it off a bit...but I was expecting 1/4 turns or using the notches to get lean/rich states.... almost lugging a bit when bumping the throttle initially... what should I do? twirl the disk to find highest idle speed? I think I've already got it, the motor just lugs out when I go in either direction about 1.5 turns.... go watch the DVD again ? I guess I'm not recognizing? thanks

yes, I've run into this issue right now out in the garage.... I need to turn the disk on the rear carb further than the bump stop will allow without me bending it to pass the "big" bump stop on the disk that ends the little notch fine tuning area (on the disk; half a turns worth) but it sounds like I can disregard this bump stop and bend the lock tab out of the way

indeed the entire aperatus is spinning behind the plastic... how do ya remove the knob? it did not want to pull off.... heater/vent cables need to be removed prior to pulling the entire panel correct? I pulled four screws but panel doesn't want to come out yet...also there is an aftermarket kenwood stereo in it..but I don't think it has that metal strap in the rear

tried my fan knob yesterday and it just spins completely around...no fan comes on. should I test blower somehow before replacing switch? what would a smart guy do? can I rig up a direct toggle switch to the 3 or four speeds on the blower?

hooray!!!!!!!!!!

whats that middle temp reading increment on the gauge supposed to be temp wise? 180?

close enough I reckon, gauge never left the cold peg when I thought I smoked it.....when the thermostat housing gasket puked I thought for sure I was over heating... update: smoke dissipated eventually, never did/ could get any more water in the radiator. I eventually got the engine hot enough to push water out the top of the radiator with the cap off....put the lid on it and kept an eye on the temp gauge.... turned on the electric fan and the gauge maintained the pictured reading below...even on test drive for half mile at 55mph.. I don't recall it being this hot prior to the carb change..perhaps I'm still lean? I think overheating issue is over, false alarm, I'm a newb, scared and don't have money to make stupid mistake repairs...

loosen clips, twist hose so that it kinks on itself, squeezing itself? or is it supposed to rotate completely? I'm not understanding fully but I'll look at the hose today for sure...

squeezing upper radiator hose to identify pressure / open thermostat. No I'm not sure the motor over heated...but when I was monitoring the smoke coming off the motor the thermostat housing gasket let go, spilling coolant. the degreaser I used was thick and goopy and did settle into areas where I suppose would take a little longer to burn off than normal? never boiled any water. I did the carb swap with Z Therapy...plus fuel bar. Intakes? I don't know...everything from the spacers was replaced. water does still circulate through the carbs. I'm thinking there was or still is an air lock... thanks for your response

I will remove radiator cap, turn on heater and run zee Z with front jacked up this afternoon to purge air if there is any. still would like input on pressure / resistance to squeezing on upper radiator hose with thermostat open/ closed. ? I'll check oil to see if I put water into it now that I've overheated at least once (when thermostat gasket failed)

hey fellas, I just finished putting Therputic Z Carbs on my 71 240 the other day...cranked right up but engine began smoking so I shut it down. I've put a lot of time into engine degreaser and wiping it off with a rag (not hosing off) all over the block / engine compartment. in some cases it has air dried in hard to reach spaces... I did forget to re-add cooling system fluid that I lost during carb removal...it took about the entire upper portion of the radiator to fill back up. engine began smoking again after restart , also ruptured the thermostat housing gasket which began leaking coolant... I tested the thermostat and it opened very slowly in boiling water, but ran motor without it after replacing gaskets. Seemed to work for the brief time I ran it but did not verify with a long time of running at idle. today I put a new thermostat in (180degree?) and filled cooling system back up, even jacking up the front end two feet...but motor started to smoke (white coming off the block)...I shut it down and felt the thermostat cover but it was cool...top of radiator cool. I let it set for a few minutes and restarted until it smoked a little then shut it down....I was hoping to bump the temp up little by little to get the thermostat to open and I believe that has happened, being how the top pf the radiator got warm. Is that the best indicator the thermostat has opened? Is the engine degreaser partially to blame for white smoke coming from areas on motor? (not exhaust) the engine temperature gauge initially did not even read warm when I overheated the motor... but today with the three brief periods of running the motor ( two minutes?) I got the gauge to read a quarter inch under half way point. top of radiator was warm. what's the pressure I should feel on the upper radiator hose? it felt warm but not much more pressure than when engine off... there's no pulley fan, and the electric fan has never worked to my knowledge, but the Z ran fine prior to the carb exchange, and I've tested the electric fan by a straight battery connection so it will work...but currently I'm worried if thermostat is taking too long to open while rest of motor is burning off degreaser or melting... also I have yet to tune the new Ztherapy carbs...so could they be running too lean at first?

I missed the beginning when they did the engines...what were they? Barris had a comment I didn't much like after his test drive: " It's still a Datsun"! ouch! they both looked like crap... " I like the carbon fiber..." he said. it looked pretty garrish to me...those round brake lights.... the white z had completely become a fantasy car....had no Z value to me.....

yes, i am warped a little bit but wanted to express the joy of merely standing in ffront of my Z looking at her... in situ: hey there's a clean spot!!

gorgeous. Progressive is partnered with USAA for motos/boats/RVs...but my Z is with USAA. I just utilized their great feature of setting the vehicle to "stored" status... an 80% premium price drop.... now to get on the Theraputic carb swap

it looks like the brake ductless poly dam from Z source which drop ships. allthough it is glossy and not showing the flatblack poly material I bought one with ducts for 165$ It's real flexible for smashing into parking curbs if you're that type of person...

thanks for the input...yes, we have a monsoon season and snow in flagstaff