Shade133

will do thanks a bunch!

Thanks a lot Dana! i plan to check the fuel pressure asap. and the butterfly in the throttle body is something im concerned about. it has been messed with and i cant find anywhere that tells me how to adjust it or if it is even a big deal to adjust it as long as it idles fine. (which it does) as far as the AFM i do want to check that because seeing whats been done to this thing i doubt it has been left alone. hopefully this weekend i can check some stuff out and get back to you guys! thanks for the info!

your going to have a price possesion on your hand when this thing is in tip top shape.

definitely listen to bruce and mlc they are both on the money about this.

i can say with a sunroof installed in mine (doesnt leak) but the roof is flimsy now because of it and im sure one day its going to crack that glass.

i hope you get it fixed! let us know what happens!

ya because the 350z isnt anything new to them. they see a old school race car that isnt a corvette or mustang or comero or anything like that they are like (wow thats new and looks sweet i want one) when i drive my Z around i always get thumbs up or compliments and its ugly as hell and has one tire bigger then the rest. i even had a guy in a BMW Z4 look at me and give me a thumbs up saying that thing is sweet. he was in his late 20's

its not the clutch in the tranny its self if the car lurches forward when you dont apply the clutch or have it in neutral. its exactly what i thought it was. the clutch mechanism is broken some how. you said clutch cable, which confuses me because i though all Z cars had hydrolic systems. so someone with a 240 Z might want to jump in on this.. so dont worry it sounds more like something in your clutch linkage broke. if its hydrolic, it is probably a leak from a seal or the cylender or something is toast and needs replacing. if its a cable it needs to hooked up or whatever broke to make it come off needs to be replaced. so once you get the right info it wont be as bad as you probably think it is. AKA the tranny is toast.

dont listen to your mechanic when he tells you stuff like that. thats just his arogant opinion. he finds no value in the car so he'd just drive it till it blows up and buy another beater because thats just who he is. if you bought the car because you like the car and want to make it pretty and run nice. do just that. his opinion could make it sound like Z's are a money pit and nothing but trouble but in reality they arent like that at all. no car is. it all depends on how the car was taken care of from the previous owners. yours looks and sounds like it had more physically body abuse then engine mechanical. so id dress up the engine, clean it out, clean out the tranny and service it, same with diff. replace ALL bushings (180 bucks for master bushing kit from MSA) and get some springs and strut inserts (around 500 for a perfmance set) and the car will run and drive like a dream. as for how it looks thats all you. you wanna clean up the furst, fix the body damage go for it. All in all the suspension wont take more then 700 bucks to make it drive like a race car (and some hours of labor) and the engine wont take more then a few hundred to burn some rubber if done right.. Z’s always hold their value more the 240’s then anything especially if its numbers matching. my opinion i dont care how it looks until it runs and drives good. until i get my car like that the body stays the way it is. then the body is fixed and interior.

that loss of power could simply be timing, fuel/air mixture or a crudded engine. for instance. i just checked all pistons in my car, and they got a cool 8th of an inch of crud built up ontop of the pistons. the oil is dirty and broken down and needs to be changed and the engine needs to be cleaned out. i plan on seafoaming the crap out of the intake system (cleaning the pistons) the fuel system and the oil system. after that the engine hopefully will free up big time and get all of its HP back

not going into gear? i think you'll need to explain better. is it not going into gear because the clutch system gave out and the clutch is always applied? because ive had that happen and its possible to drive without the clutch. or does the clutch work just fine but the gears just wont mesh? that info will tell people whether to tell you how to check the tranny or the clutch system. without knowing any of this. i say check to make sure your clutch hydrolic fluid level is right and its not bone dry sucking air in the system.

now it looks like gary revived it from the dead. :-)

haha.

good deal!

if your going to get rid of that spoiler and can salvage it ill take it off your hands

aha nice. let us know how the compression goes.

could be. replace all plugs to new condition and check regularly. and WOT = wide open throttle. important while doing compression test.

i somewhat agree with unkle. if you have to do it on your own his way is the smartest. me i had my dad pay for my insurance and gas for a year or 2 even while i was working so it helped me out a lot. i bought a 76 ford courier for 200 bucks me and my dad rebuilt the engine and i drove that thing for 2 years before selling it for 1000. wasnt to rusty anywhere but the paint didnt look good and of course it wasnt confortable but it was usable and practical. i then sold and traded up until i got what i wanted

he could of messed with the gearing or something to make it shift sooner even at WOT and high rpms so it seems your missing a gear because your toppin out earlier then normal.

walter, i got it right the first time, but i had a budy put it in while i watched where the shaft ended up.

ya you will have to take the pump off. i just checked mine sunday took me all about 15 minutes. and its not that messy. i think maybe baby cups worth of oil came out allthough it has been sitting for a while.

thats worth some good money for sure.

firing order should be 153624 going counter clockwise. #1 on my 280z with engine at top dead center and mark on timing marker at 0 degrees its pointing directly at the hood not the firwall and that is #1 then it goes 153624 counter clockwise from there. if you pull the dizzy out and note the rod had a short side and a long side. short side should be towards the front of the car and at 5 degrees counter clockwise if your looking at it from the driver side facing the passenger side. get a manual for the car it explaines all this with pictures

yes sir. i was looking to become a mechanic but ended up getting a higher paying job at napa distribution center making 11.32 an hour full time so way better then 8. and yes id take the collision class and welding personally but collision would be good.

more pictures?