Everything posted by CEgg11
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front air dam
If he isn't, I may have parts lying around.
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Dash Repair Process/Pictures
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Dash Repair Process/Pictures
I ended up using Evercoat flexible poly for my coating. I saw lots of posts about NAPA and Bondo, etc, but those didn't have enough product for what I was wanting. Lots o cracks. It sands well, which was a concern of mine. I will post pics as soon as I get it finished. Thanks for the inspiration!
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Handbreak cable. Which one does fit
Arizona Z car says it is 240 only, then 260-280, then 280zx. They show to have a cable for the 240, but you have to call for prices.
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front air dam
motorsport auto carries a pretty full line of spoilers. After that, its more a matter of taste, unless you are racing. There is no accounting for taste.
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Dash Repair Process/Pictures
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Dash Repair Process/Pictures
- Turns out its a 71..
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resetting odometer - any better ideas than with a drill?
In Georgia, if I decided to sell it at some point, I'd just fill out a form stating that the mileage on the car is not the actual mileage. Which, as a matter of fact, it will be. New motor, rebuilt trans, rebuilt diff, new interior, new suspension, new wheels, etc etc etc. So, thank God we aren't quite to the nanny state that Canada is!
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Turns out its a 71..
I have a 72 that I had deemed to be a parts car, but after seeing all the rust in my "rust free" project car, I might just do them both. Any vestiges of being a 71 or 72 are gone. The car is just a shell anyway. But, 71 consoles are more expensive than 72s, thats for sure.
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Turns out its a 71..
I'll put the VIN up tonight - According to my reading of Carl Beck, there is a range of cars that can be properly called "Series 1" without all of the badging, vents, etc. (If I read it correctly) But whatever it is, that is what it is. My plans for an L28/E31 close ratio 5 spd continue. I may give a nod to the original color though...lime green.
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resetting odometer - any better ideas than with a drill?
I have it out, just haven't taken it apart yet. I'll look at that tonight. Thanks! I am doing a complete rebuild, so I am going back to 0.
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Is it worth going back to the original camshaft on my 240z?
I think it is probably more the carbs not being properly set than it is the cam, and the carb would be much cheaper to fix. There are more knowledgeable carb guys than me, but maybe you are just running too lean at low RPM?
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Turns out its a 71..
Manufacture date is 6/71, which puts it right in the middle of Series 1 and 2. The dash is definitely Series 1, no cig lighter, and hazard switch is a toggle switch on the right side. I was just thinking about consoles, b/c this one is absent one at all. I have a 72 console, but I also want a power outlet somewhere there, so I was thinking of finding a 71 console. Regarding the values, I thought that was true about the 72 as well, with the "bugs" having been figured out, and before the flat top carbs of the 73. I am ignorant regarding the values of particular VIN ranges, though, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Thanks for all the help! I think I'll just build it as I was going to all along, and when asked what year it is, I'll just tell them the truth. I have no idea.
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Turns out its a 71..
And the reason I put this in the interior section is that I have to find a 71 console. Its a 71 dash (no cig lighter, and a toggle hazard switch)
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Turns out its a 71..
So I am in process of re-habbing a 240 that was on its way to being a drag strip car (!). I was just plodding along, taking the sellers word that it was a 72, but upon taking the dash out for the super-cool repair process, I noticed the VIN - starts with a 3. (didn't write it down, and I am at work). So, should I think more towards resto, rather than rodding? Would a 71 bring more $$ than a 72, if both were properly restored?
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resetting odometer - any better ideas than with a drill?
Also, I am thinking of aftermarket gauges. Who makes the best fit? Brand new to the gauges ideas...
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anyone have an extra drivers floor pan?
Hi all - After seeing the %^(*#$% welding job that I paid 600.00 for, I've decided to replace most of the work that was done, and just replace the whole drivers floor. Before I buy retail, does anyone have one? Thanks!
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ID the part?
Could be..it is grounded on the firewall and has a fused link that ended in the cowl bay. Horrible things, btw, cowl bays. I had "fun" for about 15 minutes this morning with an air compressor and a cowl bay, and two towels.
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ID the part?
Hi all...this is attached to the proportioning valve and to the booster. Have no idea what it is, and have never had a Z with it before (or ignored its presence) Any help? Curtis
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Bought the "big" brake package - cheaper than I thought possible
Front
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Bought the "big" brake package - cheaper than I thought possible
I did too, but I have it.
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How much is this Z worth?
Agree 100% Everything is harder than it is. I've restored my fair share of these cars, and a Texas car that needed pans doesn't make sense. Good points all around, Ksechler.
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Bought the "big" brake package - cheaper than I thought possible
Got the S12 calipers - Advance Auto - Brembrix - 44.00 each Rotors Advance brand 22.00 each 280zx M\C with tanks - 62.00 so, total 172.00, not too bad I think. Will install tomorrow!
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Engine Bay black or body color?
I was planning on white for my engine bay. Helps show leaks faster, and helps with heat, I think. There has to be a reason the NASCAR boys all have white engine bays.