CEgg11

If he isn't, I may have parts lying around.

Evercoat Applied - sanding tonight. Going good so far!

I ended up using Evercoat flexible poly for my coating. I saw lots of posts about NAPA and Bondo, etc, but those didn't have enough product for what I was wanting. Lots o cracks. It sands well, which was a concern of mine. I will post pics as soon as I get it finished. Thanks for the inspiration!

Arizona Z car says it is 240 only, then 260-280, then 280zx. They show to have a cable for the 240, but you have to call for prices.

motorsport auto carries a pretty full line of spoilers. After that, its more a matter of taste, unless you are racing. There is no accounting for taste.

And here's the Great Stuff sliced off.

Here's my progress so far - it is slow, but kids have to eat and stuff.

38656 is VIN

In Georgia, if I decided to sell it at some point, I'd just fill out a form stating that the mileage on the car is not the actual mileage. Which, as a matter of fact, it will be. New motor, rebuilt trans, rebuilt diff, new interior, new suspension, new wheels, etc etc etc. So, thank God we aren't quite to the nanny state that Canada is!

I have a 72 that I had deemed to be a parts car, but after seeing all the rust in my "rust free" project car, I might just do them both. Any vestiges of being a 71 or 72 are gone. The car is just a shell anyway. But, 71 consoles are more expensive than 72s, thats for sure.

I'll put the VIN up tonight - According to my reading of Carl Beck, there is a range of cars that can be properly called "Series 1" without all of the badging, vents, etc. (If I read it correctly) But whatever it is, that is what it is. My plans for an L28/E31 close ratio 5 spd continue. I may give a nod to the original color though...lime green.

I have it out, just haven't taken it apart yet. I'll look at that tonight. Thanks! I am doing a complete rebuild, so I am going back to 0.

I think it is probably more the carbs not being properly set than it is the cam, and the carb would be much cheaper to fix. There are more knowledgeable carb guys than me, but maybe you are just running too lean at low RPM?

Manufacture date is 6/71, which puts it right in the middle of Series 1 and 2. The dash is definitely Series 1, no cig lighter, and hazard switch is a toggle switch on the right side. I was just thinking about consoles, b/c this one is absent one at all. I have a 72 console, but I also want a power outlet somewhere there, so I was thinking of finding a 71 console. Regarding the values, I thought that was true about the 72 as well, with the "bugs" having been figured out, and before the flat top carbs of the 73. I am ignorant regarding the values of particular VIN ranges, though, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Thanks for all the help! I think I'll just build it as I was going to all along, and when asked what year it is, I'll just tell them the truth. I have no idea.

And the reason I put this in the interior section is that I have to find a 71 console. Its a 71 dash (no cig lighter, and a toggle hazard switch)

So I am in process of re-habbing a 240 that was on its way to being a drag strip car (!). I was just plodding along, taking the sellers word that it was a 72, but upon taking the dash out for the super-cool repair process, I noticed the VIN - starts with a 3. (didn't write it down, and I am at work). So, should I think more towards resto, rather than rodding? Would a 71 bring more $$ than a 72, if both were properly restored?

Also, I am thinking of aftermarket gauges. Who makes the best fit? Brand new to the gauges ideas...

Hi all - After seeing the %^(*#$% welding job that I paid 600.00 for, I've decided to replace most of the work that was done, and just replace the whole drivers floor. Before I buy retail, does anyone have one? Thanks!

Could be..it is grounded on the firewall and has a fused link that ended in the cowl bay. Horrible things, btw, cowl bays. I had "fun" for about 15 minutes this morning with an air compressor and a cowl bay, and two towels.

Hi all...this is attached to the proportioning valve and to the booster. Have no idea what it is, and have never had a Z with it before (or ignored its presence) Any help? Curtis

Front

I did too, but I have it.

Agree 100% Everything is harder than it is. I've restored my fair share of these cars, and a Texas car that needed pans doesn't make sense. Good points all around, Ksechler.

Got the S12 calipers - Advance Auto - Brembrix - 44.00 each Rotors Advance brand 22.00 each 280zx M\C with tanks - 62.00 so, total 172.00, not too bad I think. Will install tomorrow!

I was planning on white for my engine bay. Helps show leaks faster, and helps with heat, I think. There has to be a reason the NASCAR boys all have white engine bays.