CEgg11

Hi all. I had a kid drive up to my house today and try to sell me his 260. I am not interested, b/c I already have 2 240's. I did tell him, however, that I would tell the club about it. I am not making money, just trying to help. I will post pics on another post, but here are the details: Has a mutt motor, with oil leak at VC needs floors has small rust hole in tire well needs new hood, and drivers side fender. Hood is dented from a deer, and the rocker portion of the fender shows rust. Car runs/drives - has toyo brakes on front, new struts on rear. He wants 1200.00 I didn't tell him how much he might get. Car is in Cumming, GA, north of Atlanta. NM- cant' get camera to deliver pics. Car is whitish, was brown. Kid needs money for a mission trip, so if any of you need, just post back here, or call me at 7703353148 and I will tell you all I know.

yup, knew those things already. I am posting more questions, though. I am a "measure 14 times, cut once" guy.. I made a cardboard template of the floor, and was determined to cut the floor according to that template. Once I started to cut, I got nervous about it, and thought better to form the pan instead of cutting it. I am back to the trans tunnel difficulty. I can't cut much more from the tunnel, because the trans mount is right there. I am adding pics for any help yall can give. I am tempted to weld the 3 sides that are ready to go, and just beat the tunnel side into submission.

Thanks, Patcon, that is what I will try tonight, if weather permits. My goal is to make a quick and pretty Z for less than 4K, and I am on track so far, but part of that is doing all the work myself, and I am currently without a garage, so it is all outdoor work. I have the suspension ready to go - Tokico struts/springs, 1.5" sway bars front and rear, poly bushings, etc. Interior hasn't been started yet. Seats may get reupholstered at a local shop at 250.00 per. Is that a decent price?

A bit perplexed.. The floor will line right up with the rocker seam, and front/rear seams are ok, but the trans tunell fit is sketchy, the floor won't push down far enough. Question... Hammer the tunnel back, or cut the floor back?

Will do. I have looked up plans for a booth, but haven't started yet. My plan is to put the car together mechanically, make sure everything works, then take it back apart for paint.

Changing color will be no problem.all seals are gone, and the original was buried under at least three coats of white, red, or green. I only got to the original after grinding with a 60 grit wheel on the floors. Whatever I do, it will be a full on color change no matter what, but I can do that too. Will be self painted in a self built booth. I will do it all myself, if I can. Motor is built, 260 hp, 230 lb/ft 4.11 diff, zx power rack, 4 wheel disc, etc.

I am using floors from classic2customs..they are as good as the zedd floors, which I have used before, and a little cheaper. I should have it done tomorrow. I have marked where to cut, will cut and weld tomorrow, weather permitting. Sucks to be outside doing this. In Georgia, if you are working outside, you have a choice - bear the heat, or bear the bugs. I choose bugs more often than not.

I am not doing a stock resto, but I still have a thought that original colors are best. I may just flip a coin...

Hello again all! I have discovered the original color of my 72 as the lime green they call yellow. I like it ok, but was thinking of either blue or grey for my project. I am still months away, but I thought I would ask....would you admire a z that stayed true to colors available at production, even if the car wasn't restored back to original? I will have 4 wheel disc, l28/e31 combo, 17 inch rims, etc. Thoughts?

Can anyone see, if I have cut out the floor in the back? I can patch it up, no problem, but the new floor doesn't quite reach that high, I don't think.

I am doing it on the ground, and outside. I am doing this on a shoestring budget, mainly using parts collected over 20 years of owning/fixing Z's. I have the whole floor cut out, except on the rear seam. (the ones "behind" the seats. I may have cut too much, and cut out the welds. I grinded it out to see if I could see where they were, but I am lost. I am attaching pics for help. This forum has already helped so much. BTW, anyone considering doing this, go get an air hammer from home depot (20.00) and you wont have to drill anything out. It just chews right through. just be sure you have a good angle. The welds at the front have to be done from the outside, but once I got that hammer going, I was done in less than 10 minutes. Getting ready to weld now. also adding a pic of my other...

Those pics are horrible. Apologies

I drilled/grinded the welds, and I am getting ready to cut out the rest of the floor tomorrow night. Does the front rail/brace need to come out, or can it just go in under the rail? I am attaching pics.

I am working to remove the old seat mounts from the old floor. Other than hammering them out with an air chisel, any other ideas? Those buggers are in there.

Agree. Will be easier too, because I wont have to fashion/form metal as much. Will cut it tonight, weld it up tomorrow! I can weld, but this is the most extensive work I've done. The advice I've gotten is to spot weld every inch or so, and then weld up the gaps between the spots, alternating sides to keep the metal cool. Any other tips? I've seen a guy screw the floor down, then replace the screws with spots, then weld the seams up, but I don't see the need to do that.

Hi all.. 72 240, doing floor repair. I bought the car with the area under the seat completely shot, fiberglassed over, every wrong thing you can imagine. The front floorboard looked good. After removing the rubberized coating, I noticed what I would call pinholes in the floor, up where the passenger's left foot might rest. I have a new full length floorboard ready to go. So...do I cut the whole thing out, or just weld/POR15 the little holes, and put new metal in the back? thoughts? Thanks!

So I was working on rebuilding the SU's for a new project, and I either bought the SU's with a broken fuel nozzle (on bottom, the feed one), or broke it in storage, etc. Anyway, what is the replacement part, and procedure? I don't see a clean way to do it. Thanks! Curtis 70 240

I am currently about halfway done with my N42/L28 build - 10:5.1 flat top, with SU's. my N42 has no capacity to accept FI. I will upload pics when I get home. My build - motor above, .280 cam 5 speed from 80 ZX 4.11 R180 open MSA suspension (tokico) 1" drop, 3/4" sway bars I am hoping for around 200HP, hoping for stinkin quick more than 200HP.

Will upload pics of what a "nearly rust free" 240 floor looks like....

After buying a "nearly rust free" 71 240, I took the seats out. I was "lucky" I did it at night, because when I took them out, I could see light coming through fiberglass patchwork under the seat. I got the fiberglass off to see a nearly completely gone floor. How the seat did not sink I do not know. At any rate, I now have to replace the metal. I can weld, but the question is, how do I locate the seat mounts after I take them out? Is it as simple as measuring where they are? Thanks! Curtis 71 240 72 240

I think that is what I will do. I have a good suspension ready to go, but I will send seats out for upholstering, and there is still some engine work to do. I am hoping for about 200HP, though I know that is a high mark for that platform. Will be a fun car, regardless. I have an opportunity to buy the willwood big brake system - all 4 wheels for 1500.00, brand new. Seems steep....

The question is, where to start? no motor or trans, I am preparing for an L28/E31 combination, slightly aggressive cam, and SU's, ZX 5 speed. 4.11 open diff The car is, as far as a 2 hour inspection can tell, structurally straight and only has rust on the deck lid. I am tempted to strip it down completely. Do I do all body work, then put it all together to make sure it works well, then take it back apart for paint? or just do it system by system, and paint it first? Thanks! Curtis - 72 240 71 240 03 Frontier 13 Fiat 500

CEgg11@aol.com

I am working on a project car, and I am going to use a thermostatically controlled electric fan, and do away with the clutch alltogether. Better cooling, and not as much of a rob on power.