rscottm

I adjusted the valves (cold). The intake were < .002 instead of .008 and the exhaust were .012 instead of .010. Compression was improved: Before adj/after adj 120/135 135/140 125/125 115/??? (still got the 200 that I got from pouring oil into the cylinder during the first test) 130/135 125/140 Fell free to comment. I will probably do a leak-down test and if all seems good, I will go with it after changing the stem seals and see how it runs and tests after getting some time on it. Is there a way to tell if it has hardened valve seats? It is a 260 motor and E88 head with E30 cam.

I did a dry compression test with it cold and no intake or exhaust manifolds. I got 120, 135, 125, 115, 125, and 125. When I poured in a little 10W30 into the 115 cylinder, it got to about 200. I have read several other posts where people had in the 120s and several with readings in the 160-170s. Any thoughts? One thing I did not do was adjust the valves beforehand. Should I and retest?

Sound advise. Thanks. I will check compression and go from there. Hopefully, I will only be replacing the valve stem seals and water pump.

I have a '71 with a 260 engine with a header and Webers. I do not know if it has any internal mods. I have only seen it started and running very briefly from a gas can by the previous owner. My question is should I go ahead and have it rebuilt? I have it out of the car and have removed the exhaust and intake manifolds. One of the exhaust valves looks wet with oil while the others that I can see look dry. There is a lot of carbon build up in the exhaust ports. I do not know if hardened valve seats have been installed either. If rebuilding, what would be recommended? Complete? Just the head? Should I go ahead and replace the clutch while it is out too? Same question regarding water pump, front and rear main seals, oil pump? If spending the money to rebuild, what are the thoughts on finding a 240 engine and having it rebuilt so the correct engine would be in the car? The car had extensive rust that I repaired and the floors will be noticeable because I made my own from thicker steel and made rails that run farther back than the originals. I am using an orange paint that is brighter than the original too so it will be evident that things are not original anyway so I would just like to see some thoughts on that issue. Thanks.

Where can I get these? Each wheel cylinder uses one with holes and one with indentations and they slide into position from opposite directions and lock together. I need one with the indentations.

Thanks. I had forgotten about the removable bushings that mesh with the serrated washers so it all makes sense now.

Which way do the serrated rubber-coated washers face for mounting the mustache bar? I know that there is an upper and a lower due to the hole sizes so they will fit over the tapered mounting bolts, but I don't know which way they face. Does the upper face towards the frame section or against the bushing? Does the lower face against the bushing? Where are the washers located?

Yes. I can remove the top nut w/o having to compress the spring. The spring will rotate around a little, but it ultimately contained due to the shape of the spring pockets.

I want to replace my rear struts, but not sure if I need to same length or some with a shorter extended length. My car has Suspension Techniques springs and Tokico struts. The springs are not compressed by the cap, isolator, pocket on the strut and tight against the spring pockets when out of the car. Is the weight of the car enough to keep them tight against the pockets or do I need to look for a different strut?

Geezer, yes it does. I wish my parts looked that good - maybe in time. I did find that I do have the limiting strap and mounts so I think everything is there and only the bent member needs work. There is a broken piece of a bracket or something that was mounted to the front cross member. I will have to get a photo and see what it is.

Thanks to all. I get the picture now. Everything I see about this car is new to me and you guys are good to get on here and try to patiently help those that don't have their cars sorted out yet.

I have never driven the car. It was not drivable when I got it due to structure rust. It does not appear to me that any other of the rear suspension parts are damaged (except the torque strap is missing). It could have been bent when the previous owner trailered it to his house. He only had it for a few months and never drove it either. How can I, or who can tell me for sure, if it is a R180? From just photos I have seen, it does not look like the R200 to me based on the style and location of the drain plugs. Are their ways to tell if it is R180 but in the later rearward location other than if a straight cross member hits the back of the diff or if I reinstall everything and see that the half shafts are perpendicular to the diff? This car also has a straight or flat mustache bar mounting to the diff cover.

After looking at it again and the diff, it does look like it is straight model that is quite bent - possibly from someone pulling the car backwards by it. No other parts are bent. It looks like the distance between the saddles is about 1/4"-3/8" less than those on the front diff mount. Here are two photos of the diff that someone had asked about to see if it was a later model '71 that would have had the curved link. The production # is 33383 so I guess it was built in early '71.

cygnusx1, Your photo shows that yours is curved. Mine is too. It definitely has a "factory-looking" curved lip to give it strength. I now just think it also took a hit or something that put a small kink in it. I have seen photos of both straight and curved ones. I am thinking that maybe someone swapped in a R200 and changed to the curved piece. I am almost positive this car was auto-crossed as I found old race papers in the car and the car has Suspension Techniques springs, Tokico struts (fronts are adjustable), Weber conversion, engine from a 260, no emissions, header, 15" wheels, and who knows what else... It does not have a rear sway bar, but it could just be missing as this car was an absolute mess when I got it. What else can I look at to determine if it is a R180 or R200? I think this car is a fairly early model '71, but I will check tonight. I will also put up a photo of the diff.

Has anyone done this job and what products would you recommend? I read a review on Eastwoods system and it was not favorable at all regarding the sealer. I found another kit offered by POR I think. Both of these kits seem to run around $55. Does anyone know of less expensive methods that work?

This is the rear-most cross member that secures the back bushings of the rear control arms on my 240. Is this part supposed to be curved or is mine just bent? It looks like it might have been curved from the factory to clear the differential's drain plug, but it looks even too pronounced for that purpose and even has a kink in it. Maybe someone tried to pull the car by this piece. I can straighten it somewhat, but want to know if it is supposed to be totally straight.

After sanding to bare metal, what type of primer should be used, self-etching, epoxy, others? I plan to go ahead and coat the bare metal so it won't flash rust. At a later time, I would then do a little filler and seam sealing work and then paint. Can body filler be added on top of self-etching primer or would I have to sand it off and prime first with another type of primer?

I am finally getting back on this undercoating and am looking for advise on what to prime with. I see there are many different types available in spray cans - self-etching, sealer, high build, filler, rusty metal, sandable, weldable, etc. I have removed the old undercoating and ground off the paint and primer with 60 grit. I was planning to use black RustOleum Rust Reformer that Autozone sells (similar I think to Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator) and then spray on the undercoating. Any thoughts?

Any recommendations on undercoating - either spray cans of rubberized undercoating or more of a system like Lizardskin or QuietCar?

Looks good. Does the color of the car match the blue springs?

Does anyone have experience with replacing the frame rails in the engine compartment? I have already made and replaced the rocker frame rails, floor pans, under-floor frame channels and ran these back to the rear cross supports, large parts of the firewall and foot box areas all from 14 gauge steel, as well as several inner fender patches under the battery and master cylinder areas. The next step would be to make and replace the forward frame rails and then reconnect to the foot box area and under-floor channels. This is a big job. Is this normal or do most people just cover these to reinforce them. My frame has several rust holes up near the radiator support and I pulled out a lot of rust with magnets, a vacuum, and compressed air so I am worried about how thin they have become. I know that it would take a lot longer to replace these rails verses killing the rust and covering them with a formed c-channel and maybe adding some gussets. I am also concerned about getting new rails back in the correct locations including the compression rod mounts. Thanks for the suggestions

I have disassembled my 240's front suspension in order to replace ball joints, bearings, and bushings and to bead blast and paint each component. Does anyone have any knowledge of what color each component should be painted? I am not looking for a 100% historically correct job. Just one that looks good and makes since. I was thinking this: rotors - black (high temp) calipers - these will be new so maybe just spray with clear to protect control arms - black (maybe Eastwood's Chassis Black) sway bar and hoop brackets - Chassis Black compression rods - Chassis Black ball joints - new so clear, same as calipers dust shields - Chassis Black strut housings - Chassis Black springs - Chassis Black crossmember - Chassis Black. Currently, this is the color of the car (orange) but the car has been repainted 4-5 times so who knows. Any advice/feedback would be helpful.

Do you know who sells a replacement? Now I am not confident where the wire went, but will look. So there is an indicator light on the dash and that is where the wire should go?

On a 240, what is the part called where the brake hard lines run into it from the master cylinder and then out to the rubber lines for the wheels? It also has a wire that runs from it to the washer pump. It is held on by one bolt and it looks like nothing more than a junction block. What is it called? Do they go bad? Can I just clean it up, paint it, and put it back on? If not, who sells them?