T-stone

Im looking to sell an l28 never been molested low miles 100k has an n47 head, five speed transmission, fuel injection and all dressings still atatched. Any ideas on what its worth, or realistically what can i get out of it?

Thanks guys, thats what i was looking for the bolt wasent listed in black dragon catalog.

I was browsing under my car and noticed one of the rear control arm bolts was missing, looked on google and here trying to find the dimenstions of the bolt but couldent find it. does any one know the specs?

The only notch for the sprocket is on the clip that holds the cam in place, the v in the sprocket is alighned with the notch on the clip.

advance is already set a little high, and if its set any higher it will fight itself on top end. i have the timing set decent, carbs are qualized and mixture set slight rich.

I want to play with my cam timing, seems to be off a little. When i built the l28 i set the cam sprocket on number 2, it seemed to not want to idle right and spit out the carbs while under load. i set the sprocket back to number 1, idle was much smoother and felt more reliable, it still spits through the carbs under load every now and again, mainly while cold and going up hill in high gear. i have a mild cam, need a new timing chain and adjustable sprocket but dont have the money right now. does any one know if i mite should adjust it differently, it seems as though something is just not right with it. tdc on number one both valves closed exhaust is at 11 oclock and intake at 2 oclock also i never did get new lash pads and rocker arms, how much could that affect proformance and timing?

not talking about reusing, just seeing if they were bad or not. twist the ring 180 degree, obviously there is no sense in reusing.

i decided to build and l28 that had a spun main bearing, tore the engine down and found that the number five main was spun and fused to the crank. decided to swap an l24 crank in. built the engine and got it to fire today, the timing was off and had some bad backfire. set the timing and let it idle, sounded good at idle speed. when i whent to give it some gas, at around 3rpm it started to knock really bad. sounded like a rocker. i took the valve cover off and set the lash. still dint fix the problem, i did notice that the timing chain was very tight, and was showing shining on the out side of the chain. when i was turning the cam to adjust lash the cam would have some play on a compression stroke, it would make a taping sound if the crank was jolted.

I have heard that if you twist a piston ring you can tell if it is bad. cant remimber if it was supposed to bend or break.. any ideas?

I used a flux cord mig welder,placed two wet rags over the cylinders and around the block. Kinda trick but was able to do it. Was able to build the block with no ferther problems

ok, welded a washer to the stud, then welded the nut on the washer welded around the washer fusing the washer and nut together. then welded inside the nut filling it. crossed my fingers and turned the stud out. Thanks for all the help, wouldent have thought of welding a nut on the stud.

Im going to try welding a nut to the bolt and turn it out, i am an experionsed welder so this seems the easiest bet for me. will keep posted on everything

i have only tried the eas out, i am quite limited here at the house. tried redrilling but the metal on the eas is alot tougher than the bolt, would a drill press work better, or should i forgo the eas out?

decided to swap my l24 to an l28, got an engine from a buddy. taking the head off i snaped the number two head bolt, i drilled a hole in it and hammered an easy out down the hole, whent to wrench it off and broke the eas out. im wondering if i could get away with a broken bolt and not have any leaks, probly unlikely. also how much would it cost to get a shop to extract the bolt?

I did not opent the threttle while doing the compression test, dint even cross my mind to do that. I will run test as recomended tomorrow and update. Im a little iffy on the cam timing, i am running the stock cam gear, numbers on the gear run from 1-3 i have mine set on 2. i have heard that each mark advances or retards by about 4 degrees, im not sure if i have mine set to how it should. i looked up videos and pictures to try and find the correct way to set, even the old service manual was mum on this.

set up- 1972 240z l24 block N47 head, schneider cam Intake Valve Lift 48 Exhaust Valve Lift 480 duration 274 header 6-1 2.5 inch outlet aluminum 3 row radiator, stock dizy new points, condensor balest resistor, rotor butten, new dis cap. ngk copper plugs, ngk plug wires. stock coil. timing set good, point gap set 16, carbs balanced and tuned. Took the car to my uncles house, he has had many 240's some stock and others built. Let him drive ther car, he says it has about half the power of what it should, i have just now got the car relable, it has had manny problems in the past. the car runs good and sounds strong, but feels like it is lacking power. droping the clutch from about 5 grand from first to second i get a little bark, fulles steady through all gears and off take off. ran a compression test, 1-6 cylinders were at 90psi across the board. i was looking up compression numbers, it was said they should be anywhere from 160 and up. not so how accuret this is? is this what i should excpect from the motor or am i really lacking in power?

do you know where i could find one? i looked it up but im not sure if its electronic

I am trying to find an electronic diss from a 280, but not having much luck

i changed the point out, the one on it was fried. after changing it out and setting the gap it did great. i found that if you leave the ignition on when the car is not running and the point has a gap it will continuously fire and burn the point. Thanks for all the help

i looked it up and found that the point gap should be set to .018 i will set the gap and timing.. hope this clears all the issues if i have incorrect info please let me know

the mechanic said that i need to set the gap on the points or something like that, im not familiar with distributors at all. im i need of some help with this

I was running the original coil with resistor. was waiting on resistor so i could put the new one in. i was talking with a local mechanic, he said it is the distributor causing the problems.

smells like gas so i assume so

plugs are black and wet with a clear liquid plugs are not oily but have a dry chalky look when allowed to dry out

I have set the cam timing dead on im sure of that. im running a su carb setup from another z, had a 280 motor original carbs were not working right. specs on cam- valve lift .480 duration 274 camlift .325 duration 215 Also has a 6-1 2.5 inch header msd blaster coil new plug wires new distributor cap and rotor im looking for some information on setting for a modded cam, i know that the stock setting wont work as well. setting for carbs and timing the car runs great with new plugs but they foul out very quick. how well do point distributors work with this type of set up how much different should the carbs be set for the added fuel and air consumption