ZohanIsBack

I swear...I am one of the few on this forum who likes it more... Then again, I might fit outside the demographic of this forum as a 22 year old with tons of semi-professional IT and website management experience. I'm also hyper organized, so the organization of the classifieds appeals to me. Yes, the multistep process for choosing a category, uploading pics, etc takes a second to figure out, but search and advanced search capabilities seem much more robust to me. For the general guest, I suppose it MIGHT be overkill when compared to sites like Craigslist, but I must confess I still prefer it.

I also think your shop is awesome! Is it always that clean? I can't work in mess, unlike most of my guy friends. At the end of the day, I always put my tools away and throw parts in the corner, if I can. It has to be one packed day to leave stuff on the bench. But either way, your garage is still super neat!

Your work is impeccable. This will definitely be a very nice Datsun at the pace and quality of work you are performing. That's a pretty nice home shop setup, too! I have all the stuff for fab in my tiny two car garage, but I would LOVE the room for a press, blast cabinet, and upright 220v air compressor. Always enjoy reading this thread! You are pretty much very very cool.

I know you can sometimes ship very cheap through greyhound. Though no guarantees it would be in the best of shape when it got there. I actually just did a quote since I was curious, but a package with longest dimensions of 80 inches, weight at 60 pounds would be $106 from Boise to Pittsburgh. That is seriously reasonable compared to UPS. Then again, $150 for a roof skin...

Diff cover, bolts, and bolts in diff nose are SOLD! I'll part out the rest of the diff if people want the stuff. The gears look in great shape and there is almost no metal in the bottom. Yet the car shook really bad (increased with speed). Maybe it was transmission, driveshaft, or u-joint imbalance? Anyway, diff internals look good if people want the parts.

No worries.

Snap... I didn't upload the wiring harness pic. I will do that later. I have the engine harness. I could be persuaded to part with the dash harness at the right price. The dash harness is in better shape, but i would plan on redoing connectors here and there on both harnesses. The PO wasn't the best of electricians.... :-/ The door handle eschuteons are from a 79 280zx.

Gotta get rid of these parts, and as a mod pointed out to me earlier, I believe we can use this forum for last resort before the scrap yard, large collections, lot deals, etc. That said, I've got spare parts from my datsun and another donor 280zx I pulled parts from. I need them gone, and thus, will take reasonable and probably unreasonable offers. If you guys don't, most are headed to the trash. Most of the parts off the 280zx I never tested. I could if you really want me to.... What I've got: R180 diff. Dirty as can be and I believe it vibrated bad before parking. Needs rebuild. It's pulled. $40? $30? Exhaust manifold off L28 F54 block. Painted white by PO but it's peeling now. Transmission mount. Exhaust with flange adapter. 2.5" exhaust will bolt directly up to a 260z. Just need the mounts welded on. It has an N1 generic muffler on it. Sounded really good with the silencer on, though. Breaks at the center for servicing rear of car. Airbox off 280zx 260z wiring harness. It worked when pulled, but there are a few things that have been mickey-moused on it by the PO. The gauges in the picture don't come with it. 280zx washer fluid container. Untested, but holds fluid. Misc trim pieces as pictures. Untested Misc exterior trim 280zx injectors. Some are hopefully still good or good candidates for cleaning Headlight brackets (comes with FREE lights! Ha!) Hazard/turn lights untested. Gas cap, misc latches, dome light, tow point Horns

Idk, just scared to get rid of it. Ha ha! Yeah....I guess I am getting rid of it. I will build a new one for the ls1 engine. As you can see, I am in the tough, unsure part of the build. Should I keep the fuse block, or swap that it, too. Thinking of parting with that, too. Then use an aftermarket one.

Well here is the thing, there is virtually nothing going back into the car besides the shell and suspension components that will be from a Datsun. Sure, lights and stuff, but those are all 12v, straight forward. The dash is all custom. The gauges are all custom (motorcycle Koso rx-2n gauge and autometer everything else). I just don't see what I could possibly use the old harness for. Though I suppose hanging on to it might not be a bad idea... If I don't swap the harness out, I intend to build a new one completely. I was an electrician's apprentice for a while, so I know my way in and out of electrical pretty well. Just not interested in trying to mate old stuff with new stuff. Seems pointless.

I am doing a ls1 swap and am down to the body now. I took out the wiring harness, then realized I intend to swap in the entire harness from a camaro/firebird/gto. Custom dash, interior, lights, etc. Should I even bother keeping the harness?

This is great information. I've downloaded it for my records. Thank you so much!

That is a fantastic idea... I even have a few hundred pounds worth of weights. On future cars, it could be used to balance their load as well. I like it. Yeah, the doors need to come off, they are tied shut right now. , was too eager to get it on the rotisserie.

! Thanks guys! Yeah, more holes would be good for rotation, but I have 8, so that's a start. I don't want to eat metal away from the head too much. As far as the offset jmortensen mentioned, I forgot to do it, and so the car is a little top heavy, but nothing that can't be handled. When the suspension is pulled off, I will probably support each end with the hoist and turn the plates sideways/drill new holes for mounting to better balance it. And yeah, the rear assembly is coming off, I just realize I could turn the car sideways and unbolt the rear end components piece by piece with a buddy and lift them off together, rather than groveling under the car.

Something in me just leans toward the mat rather than the spray on, stuff. Mainly because it is thicker and can be used to stiffen up panels where they might rub and squeak. That PDF on aircraft soundproofing shows a product called Super SoundProofing Matt. Has anyone used that? Soundproofing Foams

The results!

Alright, finished up the build. Pretty excited how it turned out. Drilled holes for attaching to the bumper mounts. Here is the front stand with the bar attached for testing. The 3/16" plate has to endure 800 pounds of torsion and shear stress. I wish I would have overrated to 1/4", but the solid bead all around should hold it pretty darn good. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Garage is such a mess I can hardly stand it (I'm a little OCD). Oh yeah....and the car rear is up. , I didn't extend the hoist legs enough (because the engine stand and hoist wouldn't fit there together), and I had to stand on the hoist to keep it from tipping over with the car on it. A rear-end view... A close up (errr....). Notice the stand vertical bar looks bent inward, but in fact the top half I welded on is straight up and down. The bottom half is bent back for better balance with an engine on. $17 worth of mounting hardware... Worth it for the strength. The perils which the hoist and operator hath endured whilst raising the fore of the vehicle shall not be mentioned. But yes, that is a car battery helping to weigh down the hoist, . The problem is the hoist legs don't fit under the car with the stand legs... Since the stand can't really move, the hoist has to. Mildly sketchy, .

I think an is all I need to say to the above... MadKaw, I tend to disagree with the fact that a disconnected PCV will cause a vacuum leak. Can you provide substantial and well reviewed literature showing that can in fact occur? Your statement just seems a little premature.

Looking good! There is some guy who just posted about making the L24 engine in a CAD program (hope I am using that right). Anyway, bumping this so maybe he'll see it, too. Btw, I didn't realize you could do so much with the rendering programs. The spark plugs, freeze plugs, etc. All very cool!

I think there might be two people already doing a model of the z. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/46603-s30-3d.html Maybe get in touch with them?

Ahh.... That would be the worst ever.... I dropped so much stuff into the differential on the transaxle I rebuilt. Had to fish it all out with a long pair of needle nose and a magnet. Oh gosh I am so glad to be done with that...

Ugg, I hear ya... People expecting to sell $h!t on CL and either pass it off as gold turds or have the worst ads....ever. I met a guy who wanted $1800 for a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder with a shot interior, tires balder than my grandfather's head, a really bad pulley whine/transmission whine, and the worst pull to the right I've ever felt. He said 4x4 worked great. I asked if he would go any lower. He said price was firm. I said goodbye. You can get a suzuki samurai or a pre-smog 4x4 with less problems for that.

, some people just don't have good cameras... The last car I bought had photos like that. Guy just had an archaic phone. Anyway, you can always try to get better ones, but for a mostly original 240z that you can probably snag for $700 and probably been sitting in CA, it's definitely NOT something I would rule out that fast. The guys with the best pictures and all the details are the ones who want top dollar. This guy wants a car that's been a PITA for the last 20 years gone. I'd rather work with him.

I'm with Herman. I bought my 260z with triple webers and a L28 swap. It was an AMAZING car, though not stock of course. Either way, I actually LIKE the fact there were so few produced. Sure, it's not the first imported s30, but there's less out there than the 240 owners, and that in itself is a small, though modest, novelty.

I had a triple weber setup and I could pull the motor in about an hour and a half. The right tools also really help. But as tlorber said, most of us probably wouldn't bother doing that on a regular basis. If you want a track car, by a shell for $800 and build one up. Just my opinion. But if you actually LIKE swapping motor.... What I think would be cool is two motor each setup with a quick connect master harness which hooks up fuel, electrical, etc all at once with a single connection. Then you could swap engine REAL fast. Ahh...dreams...