ZohanIsBack

A couple different things can cause the symptoms you are talking about. The first thing that comes to mind is something electrical. You DID have a car fire and it did involve the battery, after all. Any number of things could be damaged, but that's what fuses are for. I would more bet on something pulled loose by the battery when it went down. Maybe not, but just one idea. The other thing it could be is damaged internals. Most often that will come along with savings in the oil, but they can be hard to spot sometimes, especially if you did it in a garage without tons of light. A spun bearing most often presents itself in the form of rod knock caused by the loose fit of the piston rod on the crank. You'll also probably loose some oil pressure as well. Hard to say, but a minute without oil.....that can get risky. I agree with Healey though. No reason to start dumping money into it. Good luck!

Mine actually looks the same. Just seems like you may want to bend those brackets up a bit and take up some of the slack. I've attached a picture of mine for you to see.

Yes, gorgeous car. I love it when originals pop up that are in super clean condition. Very rare, especially with the rust buckets out there. Up in Idaho/Washington you can get a Z car for under 1000 easy, just a lot of rust....

Too high? I'm willing to negotiate if someone wants to trade tools or parts, ya know. I'll be listing them on eBay probably, too. Any other ideas where to sell these to a targeted Z car group?

This is truly a very sad thing. I'm cutting into my 260z, but only for the sake of repairing the rust patches. , but yeah, I hate hacking up the rarer cars, like 260s and 240z....

You might want to try your local junkyard or car-part.com. These datsun transmissions can be acquired for very reasonable prices if you look around. I got my 5 speed from a donor 1983 280zx a guy sold me for 100 bucks. In SoCal, we have a junkyard where you pull parts yourself called Pick-A-Part where a transmission costs about $175 (any transmission, any year).

Hey guys, I'm selling what I believe are 1975 280z bumpers on my late 1974 260z. Maybe they were stock, maybe someone swapped them in, regardless, the back is in good condition with only minor surface rust in it (see pics). The front bumper has the same surface rust, but also has a dent on it and needs to be horizontally realigned when placed on your car. From what I gather, this particular style is rare and only made for 1-2 years (correct me if I'm wrong, pls!). Here's a wiki article that says the same thing (but I wouldn't vouch for it!) Asking $300 for the bumpers without brackets or $350 for everything altogether. Willing to negotiate a bit. Parts are located in San Bernardino, CA and I'm willing to deliver to a reasonable distance.

I'll take two once my 260z is complete. Just for kicks and giggles, of course.

Man...it's been forever guys and I'm still around here and there on this forum, but I figured I might as well post what the problem was. The t-stat was removed (and since re-added). The problem is a clogged radiator! Still haven't gotten around to it (a flush did wonders), but it needs to be cored really bad. I'm just holding off until the LS1 swap. Thanks guys! P.S. I completed a 5 speed swap on the 260z a couple months ago. It's......AMAZING! I highly suggest it.

Yeah, I just did a few minutes ago. The main thing I really need to know is whether the R200 can handle the 340-400 HP the engine will put out.

ttt

Two ideas: 1: Get a thin mesh screen like those used in MAF at a hardware store. 2: Use an air filter type of material. In either case, just cut to size.

What rear ends will fit the 260z and be compatible with the LS1 engine and T56 transmission? I'm really hoping to get car models if at all possible. Thanks guys!

It's coming from the back right tire when I engage the clutch in first AND when I rev up fast in low gear and then let off all at once (so basically anytime there is heavy torque forward or backward). It sounds like someone hitting on the axle with a ball-ping hammer. I checked the drum brakes, but they don't look like they have any issues. So I have my suspicions: 1. Rear axle U-joint 2. Rear axle bearing However, wouldn't a bad bearing be whining at higher speeds (no whining present). Anyway, my bet is on the u-joint going out, but IDK.

It was quite the job and lots of custom fab to make 280zx parts work in the 260z, but the 5 speed is truly amazing. No other way to put it!

It's all good. No, I was saying that I heard that the 260z flywheel is 8 and 7/8" but the clutch I have for it actually the large one, which is correct. In other words, I have a 280zx clutch, PP, transmission, flywheel, etc etc. Now that I was actually able to see that there is a rear spacer (doh, my bad), everything should swap flawlessly. It will fit just fine. Thanks!

For those in the future: 1. What are you trying to reuse and what are you buying new? a. flywheel (used off 280zx) b. clutch disc (brand new for 280zx) c. pressure plate (same as clutch/kit) d. throwout bearing e. pilot bearing (must be new) f. throwout collar (280zx one) 2. The ZX is a 2+2 correct? Yes 3. You already have the hydraulics and pedals done? Yes.

I searched for almost an hour and couldn't find anything. Yes, it was the spacer, I just couldn't see that it was a separate unit. Thanks so much guys. Yes, I am kinda a noob at this, just still trying to learn about these z-cars. Expect more dumb questions. Arne, the pictures on that one post shows me the difference. I appreciate it!

Okay, yeah, I got everything for the 280zx as far as clutch, PP, etc. go. But is it okay if the flywheel WON'T fit over the crankshaft hub on the 260z? The hub on the 280zx measures 3" in diameter, so the flywheel fit over that when it bolts on. The hub on the 260z is 3.5" in diameter, so the recessed part of the flywheel won't fit over it, it just bolts on flat. Is that ok? P.S. I'll be back in a couple hours. Going out shooting with friends and will check again then. Thanks for the help man, I appreciate it!

Yes, the 280zx I am taking it out of is a 2+2. So does that mean the flywheel won't fit on the coupe 260z? The tranny seems to match okay.

So....went to put the fly wheel from a 1981 280zx where the pressure plate for the auto 1974 260z was, and found that it doesn't fit over the crank hub like it does on the 280zx. The hub on the 260z is actually a half inch wider than the hub on the 280zx. Wtf? So if I bolted it up, it would sit about 1/4 inch farther out than it should be. How the heck does it work? Do I just bolt it up anyway or do I have to order the 260z flywheel (which doesn't seem to work since its 8 7/8 inch whereas the clutch is 9 1/2 inchg. HELP guys!

Great, thank you!

1974 260z. Swapping to 5spd manual from the auto 2 spd. Can I just unplug tranny cooler lines and leave the radiator with nothing attached to the tranny cooler part? Or do I have to swap radiators, too? Thanks! Justin

I will eventually, but I don't have tons of cash and don't want to wait for a pedal to come in.

LeonV: Correct. The pedal has been bent and welded to take this into account. Although not perfect, the degrees and angle of force pushing the linkage into the MC will remain close to how it was intended--horizontally. My welds have passed a certification guided bend test. I am confident they'll hold. Sblake. , I wish. Found that out the hard way and have fabricated a new linkage to work with the new pedal. If all goes accordingly, should be just about perfect though.