garretthes

Here's a photo of the bolt on the parts car. You can see how the bolt can be in two different spots. Question is, how do I adjust it?

UPDATE I have the r180 diff mocked up in the 79. I left the shafts on it and they seem to be the right length. My only problem is the bolt that the rear of the diff mounts to is in the wrong place. I can see where it could slide forward....but how?

Post some pics of the body. Look closely around the lower parts of the fenders. Check under the carpet, spare tire location etc. You could have your hands full. Look closely at the two long supports under the car.

PB Blaster then vice grips

The Turbo car lived some of it's life as a Chevy V8 car so there is no telling what else was swapped. How much for the r200?

The 83 is an automatic but its a turbo.

What do I have here guys?

Here is the 83 diff with the cover pushed away Here is the 79 diff

Well I was wondering if that was a cover or part of the diff. Dang

Here are pics of the two diffs. Looks like they are very different. The left is the 79, right 83

If the clips are still there and not damaged the chrome an be pressed back in to place. If the clips are damaged you will need a new strip. Its not easy to install. Silicone will not likely hold it in place

I have an impact wrench. Drove the car again the other day and man is it loud. I would say it's more of a roar than a whine. Very annoying. I'm probably going to pull the Diff and half shafts off the parts car next week if the weather holds. The parts car is in the back yard and I really want to get rid of it. On a side note, the speedometer was running very fast. For example when driving approx 70 it was reading over 90. Then it quit working altogether. I have read where this can happen if the cable is loose at the speedometer itself. Any ideas?

Update: The miss was a fouled plug. Replaced the culprit and it runs pretty good until I put it under load at higher rpm's. Then it seems to miss a little. I'm thinking the other 5 plugs might need to be replaced as well now that the fuel mix is correct. The good news is my daughter has been able to drive it a lot. I still need to replace the thermostat as it appears to be stuck open. The temp gauge almost gets to the 1st normal line. I'm guessing this is causing it to run a little rich still. The car failed emissions as well. This was no surprise as it was missing. The CAT has been hollowed out though. I'm thinking I will need to put a good CAT on it to pass emissions.

When you check with the test light be sure and wiggle the wire around. These old wires can have intermittent shorts. Is the plug good? If the plug is fouled it wouldn't make much difference if you unplugged the injector.

I had the same problem and it ended up being the short wiring harness that runs from the injector harness to the coolant temp sensor/thermotime switch. There are three wires altogether. They tested OK with a meter but there was an intermittent short. A local Z car mechanic told me he always recommends replacing this short cable whenever the coolant temp sensor is replaced. Have you checked the coolant temp sensor? If it is dead it will tell the ECU the engine is cold and cause a rich mixture. Also make sure the cold start valve is working properly. It's a separate injector that leads right to the fuel rail. If it's leaking that could cause your problem.