jfa.series1
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+1 on everything stated by @siteunseen , including the addition of a small resonator to eliminate drone. Keep in mind I got the system 15 years ago so there are no guarantees that everything matches in quality today. Here's a pic of the 6-1 header on my L24, a perfect fit into the engine bay with no interference.
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In your engine bay pic I saw what looks to be the remains of a bracket on the shock tower. This was a common spot to mount the A/C dryer. Also, check to see if you have three pulleys on the crank. The third pulley would be added for the A/C. Extra holes in the firewall below the battery would also be good clue.
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As the Captain pointed out, the pod is for the dealer installed ARA air conditioning. The toggle switch would normally turn the compressor on and off. What is missing is the round knob above it to control the temperature. In its place is the push-to-activate switch. Since you have an aftermarket radio I suspect this switch is attempting to operate the electric antenna "behind the driver's side seat".
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I just dropped a PDF of an old online Z Registry spreadsheet into the Z News section of the Knowledge Base. The post is not showing in the current topics so I added this post. Check it out.
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Some years ago there was an online spreadsheet function and someone established a Z registry file where owners could self-register their cars. The online function is gone but I was able to capture a PDF of the file before it went away. It looks like the last entries were in 2020. The PDF is in VIN sequence, the second column. I found my entry from 2015, mine was the 32'd entry (first column). Enjoy a trip down memory lane! 240Z Master Registry (1).pdf
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These look like small plugs. If you cannot get harnesses with the matching connectors, consider swapping them out to match the body harness. Vintage Connections can probably fix you up. https://www.vintageconnections.com/
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Allan, I have a set of harnesses available, excellent condition. Jim
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It looks like there was more than one cover picture for the 12/20/69 manual. These are the manuals that came with my 12/70 car, purchased 03/71. The car on the cover of the Owner's Manual is lighter and has a different stance.
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I tried this upgrade years ago and while I did not have the problems you are seeing I did have one issue: my ammeter was non-responsive/dead! I reversed course and opted for a reman 60A Hitachi externally regulated alternator and new voltage regulator from Rockauto. All is well.
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This is the right side showing a round hole, another one down low. These are tha same on the left side with the hose. This is my OE radiator frame.
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Yep, two circular clips to secure the overflow hose. One about 1 1/2" below the top tank, one about 1" above the bottom tank.
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Refurbished 240Z license light. Disassembled, cleaned, refinished in the original factory grey, fittings and internal diffusers replated in clear zinc, new screws and nuts for the clamshell, new gasket, perfect lenses, new white LED's. Tested and ready to install. $150 includes standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal or Venmo. PM if interested, thanks.
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Depending in the condition of your tanks, there's nothing wrong with having your radiator re-cored. Then too, its all about the skills of the shop doing the work. My OE two-row became troublesome after just a few years of ownership and after several repairs I had it re-cored to a three-row. Still running it today with not a single repair and it holds up well to Texas heat.
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This site has an extensive database of auto manufacturer paint codes and their corresponding paint manufacturer codes. These are the codes that auto paint supply stores can use to look up the formulas for accurate paint mixes. https://paintref.com/index.shtml Example - here are the Nissan paint codes for 1970 Datsuns: https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?year=1970&con=y&make=Datsun&rows=50
