jfa.series1

View Advert Refurbished 280Z License Light The light was disassembled and cleaned, the cover has been refinished in OE grey. The fittings are replated in clear zinc. New incandescent bulbs are installed. $165 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 01/20/2022 Price $165 Category Parts for Sale

WOW - what a time machine! Congrats on locating this one. VIN and build date please.

Nissan did a disservice to all of the S30's by running high amperage current for the headlights/taillights and turnsignals thru the fuse block and then on to the respective switches. As the contacts in the switches became burned, resistance increased and backed up to fuse block resulting in damaged fuse contacts and melted wires. The recommendations above to use lower amperage bulbs and get all the damaged wiring repaired are spot on. And yes... you don't just want to plug in a new fuse block without cleaning up the issues. With all that said and done, you'll still be running the primary current thru the fuse block and switches - just less of it. I strongly recommend you invest in Dave Irwin's excellent relay kits for the headlights and turnsignals. Feeding the clean power directly from the battery to the lights will make a huge improvement in lighting quality and remove these high amperage current flows from your dash area. Just my $0.02 worth - if that much! https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/

Pretty cool video but I absolutely shuddered when I saw people around sawing and cutting machinery without safety glasses - a sign of the times. Thanks for sharing.

It's all relative, right? 😄

This might help in showing the amount of off-center for the spare tire well.

Uh oh... a familar Safari Gold car showed up unexpectedly in the latest Nissan Stories!!! 😄 https://usa.nissanstories.com/en-US/releases/hidden-design-elements-in-the-all-new-nissan-z

Here are the trumpets, originally red plastic - I painted them black to better blend in. The compressor is mounted to the inner fender below the flow control valve. In retrospect, I wish I had mounted it about 4" more forward. I tapped one of the OE horn power wires to drive the compressor - a small red wire zip tied to the wiring bundle going thru the port in the radiator support. .

I've had a set of dual-trumpet FIAMM air horns on my car for over 45 years. Not needed very often but get the job done when required! The trumpets are installed on the front side of the radiator support to get that sound right out front.

That would be "crazy like a fox!" 😉

As always - your car, your choices. If you plan to mod your car noticeably (flares, body kit, interior, ...etc.) then the engine color will make little difference. However, if you plan on keeping a stock appearance (you mention "value") then its best to stay consistent with the factory's version of stock.

Well... I have referred a lot of local work to them - pretty much every resto in this area. 😉

That's interesting news about TPP. I picked up an order from them about 3 weeks ago and there was no mention of no longer supporting my hobby level work.

That looks like one of the washers for the tension/compression arm. There should be two per side.

View Advert Refurbished 240Z License Light Body has been thoroughly cleaned and fitted with a new seal, the cover is refinished in OE grey. Bulb shields and mounting hardware professionally replated in clear zinc. Bulbs installed and tested, the unit is ready for installation. $165 includes standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 11/19/2021 Price $165 Category Parts for Sale

Hot dang - that is one fine looking car! The quick and simple answer to your paint prep questions is YES - everything comes off for a good paint job. Bag and tag everything immediately as you remove it, don't rely on your memory. Become the zip bag king of your neighborhood! 😉 Throw nothing away until the replacement is installed. String tags are messy but effective at tagging both ends of electrical connections before they are pulled apart. Get some plastic tubs for your take-off parts and try to keep items closely associated in storage. Build a running "needs list" as you remove items that will need replacing. You can be acquiring the replacement items while the car is off at the paint shop. +1 on the lots of pics recommendation.

Welcome to the group and I readily agree with your comments about the quality of feedback and support from this bunch as compared to some others. Simply put - you won't find a more helpful group of enthusiasts on the interweb! We do enjoy our friendly banter and sometimes wierd humor but you won't find flames and ridicule here. Here is a current restoration thread on the forum that has some super good A/C aspects. I know the poster personally and can assure you he will answer any questions about his installation: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64674-restoration-of-hls30-12070/ I have a build sheet from my resto project 10 years ago that might be of help in identifying parts that could be candidates for repair or replacement. We are all voyeurs at heart and love lots of pics so we'll all be looking forward to your progress reports. Jim

Ditto - purchased 09/1999 for $24.95 plus $5 shipping from Rex Jennet in CA.

Welcome to the group and your purchase of a great looking car. It has truly been well cared for - especially with a history of nine previous owners. I can't be sure but looking at your pics I suspect the front sidemarkers are installed backwards. The flat lens surface should be parallel to the body line, i.e. the thick part of the lens should be forward. The rear markers are not shown but might have the same issue - the thick part should be rearward. Looking forward to your updates as you become more familiar with your new ride. Cheers!

@SteveJ You beat me to the post by several minutes. Thanks! The cost of conventioning continues to esacalate: the hotel rate is $139 with breakfast, $129 without. Add in taxes, fees, ...etc. and it will possibly approach $160. OUCH!

The center piece was a perfect fit to the OE bumper mounts, also a perfect match to the curve of the rear valance. That was a significant problem I previously had with the Taiwan-sourced bumpers sold by MSA and Futofab (I tried both) - the arc of the center piece was too shallow to fit the valance. On the Vietnam unit, the welded-on mounting tabs on the end pieces required a bit of adjusting to line up with the bolts that go thru the fenders and tuck in to the fender grooves. Luckily no scratches or other issues but then my car is more garage queen than driver. 😉

I have this one from Vietnam on the rear, SS and a pefect fit. They have choices of with or without rubber. http://bumperautomobile.com/

Oh Yeah! It was a June scorcher for sure. I had a female rider from Japan at the COTA event. No A/C in the car, she began to suffer heatstroke and we had to move her to a late model car with A/C.

Memories of Memphis in July, 2015!!! 🥵

I just spotted a date comment by Chris Karl on FB. The ZCON 2022 dates are July 25-30, Birmingham, Alabama. He noted that the website should go up this week. The judged car show will be an indoor event per pics he has posted.