jfa.series1

I'm not sure it it made it the resources. Look for the thread titled 1970 Wiring Diagram in the electrical forum. Go to the May 1 post to get the download able PDF

Hey Charles, I found the same difference in the return spring on one of a batch of door locks I picked up a few years ago. The unique one had a date code of 1969. The later style coil spring was not yet installed on the one on the left.

Did you download the latest wiring diagram PDF from Captain Obvious? He has resolved a lot of discrepencies in the FSM.

That boss could be a surface for locating the part in a machining fixture.

You are correct in using this product to seal affected areas but only after the rust has been treated. From the product description: APPLICATION - Remove grease, oil, and other foreign substances using POR-15 water-based Cleaner Degreaser followed with POR-15 Metal Prep to etch the surface and neutralize rust. Stir POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating thoroughly, DO NOT SHAKE. Always apply thin coats, minimum of two. May be recoated or top coated when dry to the touch, typically 2 to 5 hours. Topcoat when surface will have exposure to UV light.

You don't want to seal the area until you have neutralized the rust. This is a great product to kill the rust and leave a zinc phosphate protective coating before laying down the POR paint. You an get it locally at English Paint. Been there, done that! POR-15POR-15® Metal PrepRestore rusted metal objects with POR-15's Metal Pep. This metal-etching rust neutralizer provides great adhesion for coatings on any type of metal surface.

One of the highest zinc content, non-synthetic oils available, perfect for our L-series engines.

@AZ 240 Care to chime in?

Bruce, Many thanks for all your hard work on this project. Jim

CO, the condensor on my coil is connected to the + post along with the B/W wire. Also, a condensor is on my alternator as you pictured.

Completely dismantled, cleaned, and lubricated. Motor checked for correct operation. The damaged OE antenna mast was replaced with a aftermarket stainless steel unit. The top section of the mast was rethreaded to accept a 240Z bullet tip. This is a six section mast, the same length as OE. A new drain tube is installed. Note: The mast has a different profile and finish from the OE chrome mast so it is not correct for a 100% stock restoration. $275 with standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal. Comparison of OE mast on the left and replacement on the right:

Carefully stripped of previous finish to preserve wood fibers in the rim. No cracks, scratches, or gouges. The rim was refinshed with two coats of hand-rubbed, oil-based stain, topped with two coats of gloss spar urethane, wet sanded amd hand polished. The spokes and hub are refinshed in two coats of SEM Satin Black. The horn mechanism is original and in very good condition (no horm pad). $385 includes standard domestic shipping, payment via PayPal.

Great article Alan, thanks for sharing and thanks for the ride-along.

Hi Jase, I suspect you are experiencing possibly two effects of your updates. The first is likely more of a "new car" ride where everything is nice and firm and no longer the 47-year old squishy. Add on that the second item which might be the age of your tires which become harder over the years. Old (and larger) tires will certainly transmit road issues thru fresh and firm bushings and shocks. Last year I swapped out my 12-year old tires (still with lots of tread) for new ones and the difference in the ride quality was significant. Jim

Ah Ha! Looks like a pull-push switch with a conspicuous letter "F" for... could it be... Fog??? 😲 Only lhe back side of the dash will confirm. Somehow that does not strike me as a Nissan item. If it were I would expect some form of lighting symbol, not a letter.

Here is one other hidden wiring set in the dash: terminals for a fog light switch (the blue tape is the Easter Egg). I didn't prowl thru the Captain's diagram to see if they are in there.

FWIW - Here are pics of the early AM radio, one I sold a few years ago. They might help answer some of the connector and terminal questions. Note that the speaker comnector is for three wires but has only two installed.

You are also going to need the duct/plenum that fits behind the grill to catch water and direct it to the drain hole in the bottom of the hatch. The duct should have a short flex tube to span the end of the duct to the hatch. These are from the UK: https://www.ebay.com/itm/167065483403?_skw=240z+hatch+vents&itmmeta=01JJZ66Q30BWTMV8WR2YXXYR5R&hash=item26e5e0f88b:g:bcoAAOSwr3pnKRvn&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKm55FiopAQ%2BmVZ1ZX8nTu4WANBVgSI2wRbT%2F87JeaqQn4RJ3JIUmQIjSLV%2BS%2B5C3B%2BMGINXJ9GUPkY55%2BP0ulAoKuxp8XzGIgrgH8Zq%2Fo5TbqAAECga28ib5sLfKEo0D5q9RFCqumfRSdRkSWvgPhJuZM0gfBticYck6z4N7Q2yfNGUu27HC8PwllwQyGhf42O6aEVaLgcH4siWsi9bMDhphRQIbvNgwshcX%2BZRKOIgX5Zytv1b%2BEIu07lKbF4vaB%2BPLBn59HxH6Z2rW9R9qot0vPB%2BusOj4XKLCAOzK2BiDw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM-PGa5pdl

Thinking about this later this morning I now remember why I took the pic. When I tore down the car 10 years prior I now remember seeing fragments of the open cell foam seal. At the time all I had was a film camera and didn't take pics of all of the tiny details. Forward to 2009 and getting into the resto, I recalled the seal details and took the digital pic, intending it as a reassembly reminder.

There was a seal of sorts there. Here's a pic of me making a note of the remains of the seal for a future reminder (which I later forgot). The remains were consistent with the open cell foam material used eslewhere.

Welcome to the group, great looking car and you definitely got the color right! 😉 It certainly looks to have been well kept. Be sure to reach out to the Z Club of Texas if you are ever up in the DFW area. You can find us on Facebook and at our website. Tip: Update your forum signature with your VIN and build date for any questions going forward.

Yup, definitely a '71 for the reasons you state and a couple of others: bumpers in nice and tight against the body, fuel door has a lock, straight gear shift rod to match the early console. At least he has good intentions with the article.

Just a single washer on mine also.

I'm a bit embarassed to be listed in the same sentence as Carl, Kats, and Allen - all much more knowledgeable in the details of our cars than I. I was under the impression that all cars through the end of the '71 model year had "D" hub caps and that the style and center ornament changed with the '72 models. On a bit of a tangent, we find ourselves in another discussion of Series 1 vs. Series 2, ...etc. It has been pointed out many times that Nissan never used those terms and that it is merely an invention of the car owners and enthusiasts (I plead gulty!). We often get into very active (heated?) discussions about this naming convention and I've been giving some thought to a possible alternative. We know that the so-called Series 1 cars were produced into late January 1971 and all had the type "A" (monkey motion) transmission among other unique styling attributes. Beginning with VIN HLS30-21001 in February the cars were fitted with the type "B" transmission with required console design changes as well as other changes in design features. So... it might be more accurate to replace the Series 1 or Series 2 references with "Type A" and "Type B" designations. Thoughts?

Positive offset moves the wheel center inboard, use negative offest to move it outboard to the fender arch. https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/what-is-wheel-offset?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpOW8lqevigMVYDfUAR36lTkyEAAYASAAEgI7tfD_BwE&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIpOW8lqevigMVYDfUAR36lTkyEAAYASAAEgI7tfD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!354820921610!p!!s!!wheel offset chart&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=5