jfa.series1

I haven't seen much here about ZCON lately and since registration is now open here's the big question: WHO'S GOING??? This is a big one - 45th anniversary and all, and centrally located for a nice change. Yeh, I know - Memphis in July may not be all that attractive. I think it would really be great for fellow members of this site to make arrangements to meet and get personally introduced to each other at ZCON. Being able to associate faces to "handles" would be fun for past threads and future stories. Shucks - we could even work on a group picture! The hotel is booking quickly so if you're planning on going and have not yet made your arrangements - get on it! Hope to Z'ya there.

Tomo - the earlier cars have a similar piece around the door openings, although it is not plastic - more of a coated spring metal. That's called the welting and the Kia Sportage piece has the welting incorporated with it so no bare rubber is visible from inside. The Kia welting looks virtually identical to OE - been there, done that.

Don't overlook the coil or coil wire as a possible culprit. A coil usually fails completely but you might be getting intermittent HT performance at the source.

Some very tacky comments about 920 Safari Gold. Non-stock seats and steering wheel, possible half-cap on the dash. http://www.tradenetclassics.com/vdp.php?classics=1970-Datsun-240Z-&id=96769

Several sources show Centric #160.88031 as the re-man unit. You might search for this if you strike out on getting yours rebuilt. Have you checked with brake shops in your area? A few years ago a re-build was about $100-125 in the Dallas area.

Jeweler's rouge will put a great shine on those trim rings after you get the paint off. Its also a great polish for the taillights and front valance lights - been there, done that! Do the trim rings by hand but use a small buffing wheel for the lights.

+1. Except for the bumpers, all the shiny trim is stainless. With some careful use of blue tape, you can polish the taillight trim while still mounted to the rear panels and not damage your nice new paint job. Removal of the panels is advised.

Oh my - VIN #5821 right here in my little 'burb. That's a sharp looking car! Rotten weather forecast for here this week but I'll try to get out and look it over. Only a few pics on CL but the interior shots show a later model dash and console. A Z Club of Texas sticker on the windshield suggests a fellow member has it but I'm not familiar with the car.

Seriously? Any thoughts of returning to stock. Just sayin'....

At least its not a Z! The video will have you rolling on the floor as the machine operator shows off his skills and treats the car to the "cat shaking the rat" treatment. Watch as he selectively dismantles the car. Enjoy! http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2014/12/12/feds-crush-illegally-imported-car-to-send-message/?intcmp=features

Here's an OE cover on the left and a new one from Seatz on the right: Here's a new full set from Seatz And this is a finished seat with the new cover:

I also have the covers by Seatz - no left/right sides. These are awesome quality!

Just got my periodic closeout message from RockAuto. There might be some treasures here for some of you - such as a Wix Fuel Filter for $0.71!!! http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1209158&m=wc&l=en&html=true

Postmark of 1928. Great read - thanks for sharing.

Beautiful fasteners!!!

Its the details (and missing pics) that tell the tale - a $27.5k car it is NOT. De-badged hood and fenders, shaved bumpers, painted elements in the engine bay, incorrect oil cap, heater lines cut off, no hoses on carb float bowls, admitted dash cap, wrong steering wheel, antenna (?), ...lots more. Not shown are the hatch and rear compartment, suspension, underside. A pretty paint job does not a restoration make.

Nothing like that on my car - and I've touched every piece.

Very nice indeed!

Welcome to the group. If you've been looking over our shoulders for any length of time, you know that pictures and details are required entry fees. Looking forward to hearing more of your team project, you've picked a great platform to work on together.

I've got the Konig 16X7", 0 offset with 205/55 rubber - BFG gForce. No rolled fenders and no rubbing, I'm also running Eibach progressive springs. This size tire retains the OE 25" diameter so there's no speedo error. Check with your area tire dealers such as Discount to see if they can put together a wheel/tire package deal and save you some $$$. It was there for the asking when I bought mine at Discount. FYI - a number of prior posts have commented on the limited selection of 15" tires.

Looking good. Wipe all those shiny bits with Nevr-Dull before re-assembly and they'll stay that way!

Anniversary congrats to another member of the One-And-Only Owner's Club (I just made that up but the good wishes are still there).

I had no difficulties with the retractor component when using the original stock shoulder belt spacers and bolts. They swivel freely and no issues with pulling the belts out or having them lock with a sharp pull.

WOW - what a hottie!!!

Nothing wrong with that effort - looks like a lot of careful work going into that truck. An old saying: "There's nothing new under the sun". Back in the 70's Earl Hughes Datsun of Fort Worth TX took a Datsun pickup and stuck an L24 in it by lengthening the rails, hood, fenders, ...etc. With a light towhook installed in the bed, it was a regular at all of our SCCA area races.