jfa.series1

Not my car but very close with body-colored bumpers! Edit: the article is incorrect where it discusses the 240Z engine block number not matching the VIN. I sent a note to MotorTrend explaining the difference is intentional with pics of my engine bay data plate and warranty card. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/where-is-the-vin-number-on-a-car/

Here's a version of that kit that I installed on my car somewhere around 48-50 years ago. Note that the pre-tension measuring gauge is made of fiberboard, not metal. I can't recall the source, but pretty sure it was not Nissan.

Thanks. The base/color coat is Dupli-Color BFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray - a Ford color. Credit for the research and development of this process goes to our very own member @CanTechZ and I have used it on several sets of panels, including the ones on my car. The pics I included are part of a set currently posted in the Classifieds if you want to see more images.

It sounds like you are satisfied with the color, just not the gloss. I agree - way more glossy than OE. Try this: Dupli-Color HWP106 Wheel Matte Clearcoat. That will get you back to a OE-like finish. These are done with a different product for the color, topped with the Wheel Matte Clearcoat.

I stand corrected on the question of the wiper activating with the washer. Sorry for the bad info. 1973 introduced the intermittant wiper function so that could make a logical tie-in to the washer circuit.

Looking at the switch design suggests each of the contact blades is completing an independent circuit - one for power and one for ground. I recommend you run a continuity check for each circuit to verify each is working correctly. If so, that will take the switch out of the problem. As to the wiper question, the answer is no - the wipers do not come on when the washer is activated.

Actually, that is a discolored plastic insulating washer.

I think it should be possible to service the washer circuit contacts by removing only the screw that holds the contact spring blades in place. Open the wiring harness support bracket to allow movement of the wiring before loosening the screw. Several tiny parts in this area, be careful not to lose anything - do the work over a soft towel to avoid runaway bits! Going this route avoids a much more complex disassembly involving the switches.

View Advert Restored 1973 240Z Grill Completely disassembled and stripped to bare metal. Parts repaired or replaced as needed. Primed, wet sanded, finished in OE grey. Ready for installation on your restoration project. Note: does not fit the 1970-72 240Z as the outer/lower brackets are different. $235 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 07/25/2023 Price $235 Category Parts for Sale

I spotted a FB post the other day where someone was asking about the best oil and filer for their L-series engine. So. I did a search on any available reports or charts on zinc / ZDDP content and came across this one. The new Castrol product is certainly better than the one listed in the chart but the Lucas oils still seems to be the top conventional oil products. ZDDP Chart.pdf

View Advert Restored 240Z Side Markers Original equipment IKI 5004 lamp bodies and lenses. Completely disassembled, bodies commercially replated in clear zinc, lenses cleaned and polished to a like-new finish – no cracks or scratches. Stainless steel bezels polished to a chrome-like finish. OE wiring with new shrinkwrap, new incandescent bulbs, new fender clips. This set has new reproduction rubber mounting adapters. Bullet terminals for the front and rear light ground wires will be configured per buyer’s specifications. Some 240Z’s had a female ground terminal, some had a male ground terminal. The set of four lights is $265. Standard domestic shipping is included, foreign shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 07/21/2023 Price $265 Category Parts for Sale

Very interesting. I suspect the lens you pictured is unique to the Euro export vehicles. It looks like the IKI # is 5005, all of the lenses I've worked with are IKI 5004 as are the lamp bodies. Our North American versions also specify SAE PIA69 at the other end, and some but not all have DOT just above the SAE. Ours have no other lettering on the lens surface. The orientation of the raised IKI 5004 is opposite of yours. The RH / LH designations are found on the underside of the rubber adapter. I am just getting underway on assembling some sets of refurbed markers.

Deal pending.

View Advert 1973 240Z Switch Set Totally refurbished set of LHD turn signal and light switches. The combo light switch is close to a like-new condition. The plastic stalk elements are shiny and free of scratches. The wiring is in perfect condition. The turn signal lever has a fresh gloss black finish. Wiring is in near perfect condition. Both switches have been fully disassembled for cleaning and servicing. The contacts on both switches have been cleaned and polished, and have been continuity checked for proper operation. The switches are available individually or as a set. Each switch is $250, the set is priced at $450, a 10% discount. Standard domestic shipping is included, foreign shipping is available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks! Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 07/06/2023 Price $450 Category Parts for Sale

Agreed. I just helped a buddy recover his 280Z seats, they had the same spring design.

When I look at the underside pic of the seat, I see some pretty rough attachments at the various seat barbs suggesting those covers are not OE. The factory would never have released seats like that. Also the vinyl is exceptiionally smooth, doesn't show the typical grain of OE seat covers.

Yet another welcome to the group! That's a sweet looking car, should be great for a father and son project. Looking forward to your progress updates and we are all here for any help you need along the way.

Not to hijack the OP's thread but here is one more Nissan blue tape "Easter Egg", this one is for the fog light circuit.

That connector is idle on my car also, a solid green wire. if the wiring harness was common to the auto transmission car, given the location it might be part of that function.

View Advert Restored 240Z Tail Light Panels PRICE DROP! A complete set of restored 240Z tail light panels is now off the bench and ready for a new home. This set has been taken down to bare metal and refinished. Starting with OE-like flat red primer, wet sanded and then finished with two coats of OE-like grey. The stainless steel bezels are straight and free of dings, are polished to a chrome-like finish. I’ve included a pic of what panels with this restoration process look like as installed on my car. The 3-piece set is $350, including standard domestic shipping. International shipping is available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 06/10/2023 Price $350 Category Parts for Sale

From the online parts catalog: Two versions for the 240Z, one version for the 260Z + '75-76 280Z, and one version for the '77-78 280Z. These parts typically have the P/N molded on the inner side of both pieces.

Here's a possible approach: if the relay appears to be the only PO mod, consider using your FSM wiring diagram to put everything back to OE state. Then proceed with debugging your wiring from a known baseline. Otherwise you are chasing bugs from an unknown starting position and having to compensate for his mod(s)..

If you have not already done so, download the FSM for your car - it will have your wiring diagram: http://xenonzcar.com/s30/files/FSM/1974 260z FSM.zip It definitely sounds like you have a dead short somewhere, that is why the PO cut the wires. Interesting that it does not take out a fuse, perhaps wiring somewhere is heating up to the point of separating and killing the circuit. Since everything worked one time when you made repairs and hit the combo switch suggests the switch is not the culprit.

Correct, the OE flashers are usually a aluminum can. They typically have a metal tab for a small screw to mount to a surface. The new ones usually have a plastic case, no mounting tab. You can glue a tab to the case for the mounting screw.

The OE cans are "thermal" - they use a bi-metal strip that heats and cools at differing rates depending on the flow of the electrical current. They usually operate more slowly at idle and then speed up as engine revs increase. The newer units are termed electro-mechanical, operate at a constant rate independent of the engine speed.