jfa.series1

DJ - congrats on saving that great looking Series1

That looks to be the JOINT-TUBE BREATHER 17227-E4100 or 17227-E4600 per the online catalog up to 7103. For 7104 and after it is 17227-E4101 or 17227-E4601. The catalog shows this as a "T" fitting, mine is also a straight fitting. Unfortunately I can't do a paste from IE to get the catalog link to you. The "T" fitting might be the 4100/4101 and a straight fitting might be 4600/4601 or vice-versa. This is probably a Nissan-only part, see if your dealer can help.

Generally, if a car is totaled the owner gets a check for the current/book value of the car and the insurance company takes title - i.e. they just bought the car from the owner. The insurance company will then sell the car for salvage. Some insurance companies will allow the now prior owner to bid on the car and buy it back out of the settlement. That's when the car gets a salvage title. As to the impact on future value, take a lot pictures of the car before and after repairs to document the extent of damage and how it was handled. Only a future buyer can determine if it has significant impact on the price he/she is willing to pay.

Found it! Thanks zKars

A little help please - where/how can I find "My Media"? The old site had "Manage Attachments" as part of the advanced reply functions but I cannot find a similar item now. Thanks

The engine bay plate shown appears to have engine # 3377 and car # 0066. The plot thickens like curdled milk.

Its possible the mounting screws are contacting the metal lamp body on their way to the fender. Check that the rubber seals are carefully fitted to the lamp body and the screw holes in the seal are not close to the lamp body holes. Then carefully fit the lens and stainless trim into the seal but don't change the seal fit on the lamp body. I have this kit and love the effect on the marker lights.

I hope the eureka moment didn't hurt too bad! Didn't the old Model T's and others have a lever on the steering column for this purpose?

Hey Chris, From your slightly younger cousin, check out the Roadster belt at WESCO. I've got them in my car and very well pleased. The retractor mounts up at the quarter window in place of the OE shoulder belt with no changes and you want the 11" sleeve for the buckle side. I can't get the website link to paste so Google Wescoperformance. Jim

Seems like just a coincidence - no connection between the ebrake and brake lights. A possible cause is a stuck switch at the brake pedal or the adjustment nut has moved on the switch.

It might be that your ignition/steering lock kicked in when you moved the wheel. When engaged, it will usually prevent the ignition switch from turning unless you remove the tension on the steering column lock. Try this: insert the key and GENTLY turn it while moving the wheel a little one way or the other. By turning the wheel, you are taking pressure off the steering column lock so the key can cause it to disengage.

Great looking car - a very nice find and it looks to be unmolested. Welcome to the group and we'll be looking forward to your progress updates. Be sure to share your VIN and build date in a future post.

Welcome to the group and your next diseaZe! As long as we keep filling the owner's ranks of old cars with young owners, these classics will stay alive.

I suspect the folks at Blipshift got their attention very quickly! I just received their shirt and love it.

Crazy, stupid money being bid - now at $10,600 and the reserve not met. I guessed that the seller was looking for $10k but its clear he has his sights set on a bigger fleecing. Seven hours till its over.

BvtnDave - Phil provided an excellent description of Dave's harness benefits. These are really great upgrades for your car and will potentially save your combo and turn signal switches from burnout. So... DO add them to your MSA order for the fuse box, your car will thank you! Also, change out your old, tired turn signal and emergency flasher cans for electronic units similar to this one: Novita/Hazard Warning Flasher (EL12) | AutoZone.com These units are available at almost any auto supply store. No more pokey turn signals!

It's probably going to take a minimum of $25-30k to get this one "right", on top of the purchase price. That assumes the new owner does the work him/herself at $0 cost of labor. It's probably more if there's an attempt at "stock" or "as delivered". Costs can be reduced IF the new owner does all their own body and paint work, engine re-build, ...etc. Even though it's a 3-digit VIN, a $ break-even is going to be a tough road. Current bid is $5,300 with a reserve not met.

That's known as a "trial by fire"!!! Glad no one and the car were not injured in any way. BTW - you have a great writing style, keep it coming.

Sweet looking ride! Welcome to your next addiction (and to the group).

You really need to calm down before you have a stroke! Looks super great - going for that stock class win at ZCON '15 up the road in Memphis???

Winning bidder must have had a change of heart - did not cough up the $ required to seal the deal. Or... perhaps it did not meet expectations upon inspection.

I don't think the BRE spoilers ever had the flat spot - mine doesn't. I suspect that was a Nissan feature for the Fairlady series.

The sale closed out at $10,200. Someone is going to have a super fun project!

I'd suggest that this is something that was sold in the parts dept. and not ever associated with a specific vehicle.

Pretty much describes my physical condition!!! The (used) fuel spills can be especially embarrassing.