jfa.series1

If the collar that the cap attaches to is not sealed well against the "rubber ... thingy" you can get a slosh leak even if the cap is sealed tightly. Fix: remove the collar and run a bead of silicone seal all around it, re-install. Been there, done that!

Here's a few considerations when installing a BRE rear spoiler: - Make sure to clean and paint the brackets holding the studs to prevent rust. - Use self-locking nuts when securing it to the hatch. - Consider inserting a small O-ring on each stud prior to mounting to the hatch. The O-ring will help seal the hole thru the hatch and it helps hold the stud brackets slightly above the hatch surface and reduce abrasion to the hatch paint. The O-rings can also be used to help adjust the clearance of the ends of the spoiler against the fenders. As to the rough top edge on the new series of spoilers, here is a shot of the top edge of my old one. It has a flat about 5/16" wide across the entire edge. I don't know if this flat has disappeared from the new units.

I can't see any excuse for the damaged finish along the entire top edge of the spoiler. That is not incidental damage, it has been ground or filed off. I suspect there is a problem with the mold and the edge is not coming out clean and this is someone's very poor "fix". This should be completely finished in gelcoat and ready for installation or paint to color of your choice. As to the mounting studs, one might presume no prior installation holes in the vehicle and therefore new holes would be drilled to the current spec. If BRE assured you that the spec was the same as original, then you have an issue to take back to them - along with the finish item. As an aside, my dealer had already installed the 1st gen BRE "Spook" and spoiler when I bought my car - and they are still with it. The BRE site shows the current "Spook" as the original but it is really the 2nd gen. design for 1971 and after. Here are a couple of pics of the 1st gen. "Spook", used only for the 1970 competition season.

The car appears to be a museum of some sort. It is in Madison GA, perhaps some of our eastern members will recognize the location. As Robert says, some VERY interesting company sitting around this car - an Opel GT, Ferrari Testarossa, ...etc. I especially liked the rear glass shot with the Japanese battle flag reflection.

I have a conventional battery with reversed posts (positive near the engine) and keep a maintainer on it most of the time. I've never had a leakage problem in all the 43+ years I've owned the car but have always had a good tray and drain tube under the battery. If a car is going to be stored/unused for a long period, pull the battery.

That is the door window outerseal with molding. it is available from Black Dragon for about US $50 each plus shipping. It is a left hand and right hand part. It is often called the window squeegee, is attached to the stainless molding. Note that if you buy new ones, the stainless is not pre-curved for the door and will take a bit of effort to warp it into a proper fit. I gave up and ended up removing the rubber and fitting it to my existing stainless molding with some pop rivets.

Here's a document I posted a while back - a complete rundown of all expenses incurred in my resto effort. It doesn't cover all your questions but a lot of them. My car was not bent or broken, and it had no rust issues. Hope this gives you some insight. As to time required, I have 2 1/2 years in my project (I'm retired) but there was 9 months of downtime while the car was at the paint shop followed by another 6 month stay for some paint corrections. The paint shop time was long because it was a collision shop and very busy with fast turnaround jobs while the owner had my car as his personal project. Z Restoration Report.pdf

Here's my side-by-side photos of the OE and MSA fuse boxes. Correction to my earlier post - two connectors were wrong on the MSA: female bullet style vs. OE female blade style - visible in the pictures.

I have the MSA fuse box and love it. True - the OE clear cover will not fit on the MSA box. Since it is under the ash tray cover I don't consider it an issue. At one time MSA had a cover available but no more. The MSA box had one pigtail connector wrong so I stole the correct one from my old box and transferred it.

I had a similar experience recently after a rare fill-up. While on the road I noticed a pretty rapid drop in the gauge, figured I was really burning a lot of gas, and had the "aw sh-t" moment. Then the gauge slowed noticeably and I realized it was the step in the fuel tank causing the different rate of change in the gauge. Most of the time I only give my little garage queen enough fuel for local events and I had completely forgotten the effect of the tank shape. I really need to check my mpg and how much gas I can get into the tank.

Here's my replacement clutch master, also a 5/8" bore - visible on the side. Unfortunately there is no mfr. brand on the casting. It was purchased from RockAuto about 3 years ago.

Excellent writing - a very nice flow. It made me feel as if I was in the cars with you. Tasteful selection of photos, very well done. A really nice job for your initial outing!

Don't overlook the radio power as a switched power source.

Looks like a pretty decent car hiding under all that dust - the fact that it is running is a big plus. Looks like lots of loose goodies, hopefully all the interior bits are accounted for. Welcome to the group and keep us posted on your progress. You know where we are, help is just a post away.

The flasher relay you pictured looks to be at the steering column - if so, it is probably for the turn signals. The hazard relay is usually above the passenger side kickboard. You are correct that the relay pictured is not stock, it looks to be a modern electronic version (that's a good thing). Your hazard relay may just be tired and ready for a replacement to an electronic unit.

Datsun Z Series 240Z | eBay

Great idea - one that I wish had been published when I had my car torn down. When I hit a bump, sometimes it is just enough to jar the brake handle and allow the brake light on the dash to light up - it can be a bit startling! I slap the handle back down and all is well.

A phone # search suggests it is in the Rancho Cucamonga area in CA. "Looks very clean" might be a serious understatement if it really has only 371 miles on the odo as pictured - one of those "ultimate" barn finds?

I don't recall seeing this one posted already. Rare and Collectable 1978 Datsun 280z

The on-line catalog says your P/N is 27116-N4220 for 08/75 and later. I checked Courtesy and it is listed as NLA. For earlier cars the P/N is 27116-N3600, is available at Courtesy for $31.05. Some creative engineering might make an earlier version work for you. Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Car Heater (From Aug.-'73)

A noticeable absence of interior photos, except for the rear deck - which looks to be incorrect cut pile carpeting and no sign of the luggage straps. I believe all the engine bay hose clamps should be yellow zinc plated - some of the details Chris has suggested. The poster has started the auction at $35k with a higher reserve (?) to be met.

I was surfing the Banzai Motorworks site today and noticed Mike has one in his catalog that is advertised as "correct". It might be worth checking with him.

You're on notice: you've got just under 1 year to get that sweetie into shape for ZCON 2015 in Memphis! Z'ya there. And... a very big welcome to the group.

That's a "heck" of a great way to start your Z love affair. Welcome to the group, more pics and updates are required elements of continued membership in good standing. BTW - where in the heck is heckeroth???

Chris - sad to hear of this development, sounds like it falls into the "no good deed goes unpunished" category. I'm sure that a lower VIN / Series 1 car might come closer to justifying a project investment but - as you point out, the economics of a badly rotted Series 2 are hard to deal with. It sounds like a part-out has the potential to benefit a lot of other folks, especially those in need of butterscotch interior bits. As to today, have heart and don't get down on yourself - you're a better man for trying!