jfa.series1

Just because there are no adjustments on the rear suspension does not mean you don't have an alignment problem. Putting the car onto a modern alignment rack will check all four wheels and prove the point. Worn bushings might not be the problem - some part of the suspension might be bent.

Michael - thanks for the brief photo lesson. I understand the multi-stop bracketing and found that my Corel supports HDR. Now for some reading and experimenting. Jim

Please explain HDR to a layman. I use Corel Paintshop Pro to tweak my photos, I suspect HDR is an effect that might also be in my software.

Happy Anniversary and many more to come! Clearly you've learned to "Enjoy The Ride".

+1 on using a stud welder - no holes to fill later!

The order process was clean, no problems. Shipping was fast. You have to buy a box of 10. The additional 1W of brightness over stock is noticeable.

I ordered the MSA bulbs a while back only to later read about the fit problems. I later found these guys and they work perfectly for those not interested in converting to LED. Eiko 12V 4W G3-1/2 Mini Bayonet Base A-72 * | Motorcycle Snowmobile

I’m in need of some guidance in isolating an electrical problem. Here are the symptoms: I started the car yesterday and kept an eye on the gauges as it warmed up. I noticed the ammeter was not moving to charge as it usually does – it was holding dead center or perhaps a very slight discharge at all revs. I flicked the turn signals and got a small discharge with each cycle, no change at revs. I turned on the headlights and saw no movement on the ammeter (no discharge), no change with revs. I drove the car a bit to see if anything would break loose and begin operating normally, no joy. Here is some background info: the car came off a full resto two years ago. It has a new (re-man) alternator, voltage regulator, and battery. All wiring is OE and in excellent condition. I’ve got Dave’s relay kits on the headlights and turn signals. The car is a typical garage queen and gets about 1k miles each year. I keep a maintainer on the battery while the car is garaged. I’ve checked the FSM but most of what it covers is over my head – I’ve no prior experience at troubleshooting engine electrical problems. I suspect I’ve got a bad alternator or regulator. I’ve got a multi-meter and know how to use it – just not how to apply it to this problem. Right now the car is down because the radiator came out yesterday for repair this week. A couple of pointers on how to proceed would be much appreciated. Thanks,. Jim

Chances are good that most/all of your problems are caused by a worn electrical component of the switch. As Zed Head says, that part comes off the back side of the switch with just a couple of Phillips head screws. When removed, you have eliminated the key (mechanical) switch from the actual ignition process (and yes you can drive the car if the electrical switch will start it). You'll need the key switch only to unlock the steering wheel. Unless your key switch is really messed up and not operating smoothly, no need to mess with it and the rivet-head screws holding it in place. The electrical switch is readily available and easily replaced.

Here's the detail from the General section of the FSM: "Front supportable points for stand are both front side members. Rear supportable points are both side of front differential mounting cross member." Photos show stands at the front box member where it tapers to smallest height (at the floor pan). Stands at the rear are pictured at the box member running across the car - just ahead of where your stand is located in the pic.

A couple of options: fab up 4 slotted aluminum blocks and use the jack lift points, or use the four approved points for jack stand support. Congrats on the new tool, I envy anyone with their own lift.

And... if you go this route you should probably add bump stops to your shocks - about $15 a pair at MSA.

Seriously good photoshop skills there! I'm jealous.

Here's the online catalogue for all of your Nissan part numbers. +1 for Courtesy Nissan Parts, they're good at running down stuff and they do a lot of international shipping. Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Parts Manual

My car has a factory rubber plug in that hole. There was no factory A/C until 73-74 (?) and this hole is too high for a drain coming all the way from the passenger footwell area. Purpose = unexplained.

Carl - I think someone with the CT club CTZCC was doing this. You might post there also.

A man after my own heart - love all those tagged electrical connections!

The brake master booster holds vacuum created by the fuel system under acceleration and cruising. Vacuum drops when you decelerate/brake. The check valve is critical to keeping the vacuum in the booster at this time. A master vac unit with a leaky diaphragm or hoses will not hold vacuum and you get the braking problems described above.

Mike, You should have a single wire about 15" long with a female bullet connector coming from the engine bay harness just before it goes forward thru the radiator bulkhead for the lights. My wire has a black protective cover so I can't see the actual wire color. Hope this helps. Jim

Surely I'm not the "Jim" you refer to! Actually, all my parts are firmly in place and flying in close formation as pictured in my signature. My wife saw my growing list of replacement items (and the $ investment) and made it clear that overstocks were not going to be tolerated. My garage is only an oversized double and any extra stuff on the shelves would quickly be ratted out. The Other Jim

Got it, I looked too quickly. Brain f@rt!

I think the panel in the Manitoba ad is not a 240Z unit, but a later model - either 260Z or 280Z. All 240Z panels are 3-piece units, right?

Great score, Jerry. And I see the ever-elusive firewall grommet is pre-installed on the speedo cable as it should be.

They are available thru Courtesy Nissan Parts for $1.81 each. Plug your part # into the search box. Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Hi Jay, Welcome to the group. Looks like a pretty nice ride, you'll have a lot of fun with it. If you ever decide to make a run up into the DFW area, check out the Z Club of Texas. We meet the 3rd Wed. of each month, regularly have a bunch show up for Cars & Coffee the 1st. Sat of each month, plus other regular events. A cruise down to West is coming up soon, that might be an opportunity for a meet-up. Check us out at our website and on Facebook: Z Club of Texas https://www.facebook.com/groups/134844516538707/ Jim