jfa.series1

Carl, The kit is as shown but not the T/C rod or boot. The price is $10.46 per side before the typical 5% discount and shipping. Look it up by the # 45G25036, it does not come up by our car models. Jim

Today I started the process to get rid of polyurethane bushings and return to OE-style rubber. First off was the T/C rods using the AC Delco kit another member so kindly identified and available from our friends at RockAuto. A club tech session next weekend will see the rear LCA and steering rack bushings going back to rubber. I am really looking forward to a more civilized ride!

Good to meet you Eric. That GT-6+ sounds pretty neat - they share a lot of common lines with the Z, sort of a 7/8 scale version. We'll be looking for your pics.

Hey Ericg, Welcome to the Series 1 club. To paraphrase some famous defenders of our country - we are the few, the proud, the old! The comments above all clarify the series and likely build period of your car. And yes, we really do want to be see some pics of your new ride and here some more about its condition and your plans for it.

Not used with my car, they came with later models.

You can completely rebuild and assemble the front suspension off the car then install it as a single unit while the engine is out. Use a floor jack to slowly raise it to position as you get the T/C rods and strut tops into position. I was able to do this single-handed but it is certainly a bit easier with another person to help.

Understand that a car project is never "done", "finished", or whatever other term of completion that comes to mind. Nice looking ride and nice pics!

Any reports on the condition of the 'roo???

Nothing serious - just a little surface rust to clean off, slight alignment issue with the LF fender, a couple of mechanicals as stated, ...! As he said, nothing serious.

Not having personal experience in this, it seems you will also want to pay attention to valve-piston clearances. Regular flat-top pistons are not dished for valve clearance.

Here is the set of covers I purchased directly from Seatz just before they decided to work exclusively with distributors such as MSA and others. Check out the richness of the grain in the center panels. The stitching and shape of all the panels are spot-on with the OE covers. I'm big-time satisfied with every aspect of these covers.

Seatz does resto seat covers and other items for MANY different cars, so specific items are usually in a run or batch. Have patience, you will really like the product! Check out their site for more info: http://www.seatzmfg.com/seatz/index.htm

If the ones from MSA are still made by Seatz out of CA, they will be some of the best quality and most authentic reproduction covers you can find. A call to MSA should confirm their supplier.

This is not Z related but does contain an interesting caution for international shipping of autos. European buyers of Z's from the U.S. come to mind. International Shipping - Mercedes-Benz Gullwing | Hagerty Articles

Check the plastic fresh air ducts near the radiator frame. If they are broken down, that could also be a source of engine bay gases getting into the cabin.

Consider giving them some of that positive feedback on their FB page - that goes a long way with most companies.

The MSA bulbs are too long to fit well (been there, done that). Try Planet Bulb for a 4-watt bulb by Eiko #A-72. Its a nice upgrade.

Your new gasket is produced by PRP and this is a somewhat common problem. I have a similar issue my PRP hatch glass gasket. It is not going to stretch to cover the opening so if you stay with that gasket you'll probably have to add some sealant to the corner areas. Genuine Nissan gaskets are still available for the front and hatch glass and don't have these problems. They are also more pricey!

Dave Irwin is the go-to guy for refurbing turn signal and headlight combo switches. His e-mail is wolfin32z@yahoo.com. You won't be disappointed!

Just confirmed - #201 IS still available for sale. The previously reported deal fell thru. Bill and his wife have a deal on their MO home, really want this car gone before they move back to TX.

Bill's son is going to school in the Dallas area, I just contacted him for any new info.

If the doors are still hung, check their alignment with the body to see if adjustments at the hinge mounting bolts are required. You also mentioned the C pillar glass - I presume you mean the quarter window. If so, you will want to get that item well installed before any door glass as the door window frame will potentially have interference when you close the door. Latches next per the above comments and finally the door window parts. Be sure to exercise your door locks with the key before moving to the door glass - making adjustments is easier at this point. What worked best for me was regulator and center channel first, forward channel (loose), window, stainless frame last. Door seals will come after all the hardware is back in. After that its just making all the fit adjustments. Easy for me to say, right?

My car came stock with a double nut setup which I still have in place today. That might have changed with later models.

When getting everything back together, don't overlook the second nut on the end of the shaft. It is not shown on the diagram in your original post but you want a double nut to lock the primary nut in place so it does not back off.

For any of you that are tired of dealing with slow and aging turn signal flashers, consider upgrading to an electronic (non-thermal) unit similar to this one. For the purists - it is not OE, but it does make one heck of a difference in the signal flash rate. The same unit can also be used to replace the hazard flasher. These units do not have the small mounting tab that the OE aluminum can styles have on the top. A 1/2" square of Velcro on the top will solve the mounting issue. One of the best updates I ever made! Novita/Turn Signal Flasher (EL12) | AutoZone.com