jfa.series1

Cliff - Congratulations on what looks to be a really sweet deal. Another fine example of the Z network keeping good cars in the hands of caring owners.

Like Geezer, I thought you were referrring to the removable splash shield #26 but re-read your post about the closeness to the hinges. Try and find some donor fenders to cut out the rear shield/brace or to use as a template to fab new ones. The Nissan gaskets #4 and #30 are NLA and you would not want to use them anyway as they were open-cell foam that held water and contributed to the rust problems. I used 5/16 thick X 3/4 wide closed-cell foam weatherstrip for these two spots - a perfect seal when the fender was bolted up. The weatherstrip was picked up at Autozone.

l opted for 205/55X16's for my Rewinds for two reasons: avoid any rubbing problems due to width and stick with the original 25" diameter as much as possible. No regrets with my choices.

I used a product called Prodex from Insulation4less ( http://www.insulation4less.com/ ). It is a closed-cell polyethylene foam core with reflective aluminum foil coverings. it has a R16 rating and noise reduction of 19dB. Unlike bubble insulation, this stuff does not collapse under pressure or aging. Installation was pretty easy with 3M spray adhesive. I used about 60% of a 100' roll of 72" wide product.

Mike, Nothing "holds" them together except the pressure of the heater control faceplate attached to the dash. The two metal tabs/ears on the bellows on #30 act as a centering function as #31 moves to it. The dust you see is the remains of the old open-cell foam gaskets used throughout the system. Try to find some thin closed-cell foam for any new seals. I found some sheets of fragile item protective wrapping and cut gaskets/seals to fit various joints. Hope this helps. Jim

For anyone with a lightly driven car or one that is stored for extended periods such as winter months, here is a great maintainer for the battery. My wife's late model car is lightly driven - 20k miles in 6 years. When the onboard vampires killed the battery and the dealer replaced it under warranty, they said either drive it more or get a maintainer. I bought this one and no more problems; the Z now has its own unit also. The multiple connectors are a really nice feature. This item is usually in stock at local Sears stores. (No affiliation with Sears). http://www.sears.com/diehard-battery-charger-maintainer/p-02871219000P?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5

Similar to Mike W., just not as exotic/professional products. All lines were removed from the car, degreased, cleaned with a Scotchbrite and then a paint thinner wipedown. All threaded fittings were taped off. Everything got a Rustoleum primer, then a Rustoleum Brilliant Metal color coat, topped off with a gloss clearcoat. The fasteners received the same treatment. I was lucky enough to not get any leaks so paint repairs were not required. Jim

You really don't want to crank down on the intake or exhaust manifold nuts. The studs are mounted in the aluminum head and will pull right out if too much torque is applied.

I'm just rying to make sure I fully understand the meaning of the thread title.

No science required here - any light oil is OK. Engine oil, ATF, ...etc. You are not lubing anything, just providing a medium to absorb and transfer any heat coming out of the shock inserts.

Check out the Wiki link I included and you will see that stylized versions of the old flag are still in use by the successors of the WWII army and navy - specifically the Japanese Ground Self-Defense Forces and the Japanese Marine Self-Defense Forces. The Rising Sun is also found on the labels of commercial products. The sense of nationalism is quite strong in Japan. I have no argument with how Japan or its citizens perceive themselves. Yes, they are great trading partners and now strong allies. Perception is a two-way issue - by self and by others. My comments are limited to my perception of Mike's work and how it might be viewed by others. I like the comment that suggests if you don't like it, don't buy it.

If Lime Green is no longer your preference then wrap up your work on this car and move it along to a new owner. Take the proceeds from the sale and some of the money you might have rolled into the green car and find a car more to your liking without the penalty of a color change.

I'd say the car has been repainted - I don't think 920 Safari Gold was offered in '73, plus the black paint in the engine bay suggests a color change. Door handles painted? The interior looks pretty decent, a few cracks in the dash are to be expected, radio antenna cable hanging by the tunnel. All the hardware is missing from the right door - why? Anything else missing? Call Mike's Zshop and see what they did for $200 and do they have any comments on the car. I'd say this car needs a good pre-purchase inspection for paint quality, rust, suspension, brakes, equipment operation - all the usual suspects.

I'm also in the mixed feelings group on this one. The Rising Sun was the military/war flag for the Japanese Imperial Army and Imperial Navy. Although we have lost most of our WWII veterans, there is still a lot of residual emotion in the U.S. tied to this flag. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rising_Sun_Flag Mike, your graphics work is very creative and the work you are doing with the site is top-notch. I guess the marketplace will ultimately be the measure of success or failure with these designs. Good luck with your efforts.

I think they are available from Black Dragon. As to a decent price...?

Excellent! Thanks for sharing.

A 9mm straight zerk fitting is the pefect replacement for the NLA nylon reservoir. Clean out any residual material from the old part and install the new fitting directly on the rack - no drilling or thread tapping required.

I think the original plug wires were black as you suggest. I now have a NGK set, a transparent blue/green. I did not purchase braided hoses since my car is a resto-mod, not restored to as-delivered or to concourse standards.

Hank, Here are a couple of pics of my engine just before it was installed. As to colors of fasteners, it is pretty easy: all fasteners forward of the firewall are done in yellow zinc (or cadmium if you want to spend more $). All fasteners behind the firewall are white/clear zinc. This also includes door locks, hatch hardware, ...etc. There are at least two incorrect OE color items on my engine: the fuel rail was yellow zinc OE, I painted it silver to match the hydraulic and fuel lines. The carb heat shield was probably yellow zinc OE also, I did it in silver HT. My carbs/linkage/intakes were done by Z Therapy, all emissions pieces removed. Jim

Franco, I'm using my car as a guide on this, a '71 240Z. Photo 3-copia is for a condenser that is part of the voltage regulator. Photo 2-copia two holes are correct Photo 1-copia not correct! There should be a green/white wire coming from the harness that attaches to the ballast resistor. A black wire with female spade connector goes to the (-) on the coil, a black/white wire with female spade connector goes to (+) on the coil. You should also have a condenser attached to the (+). Photo 0-copia this is a ground wire to the body. Look for a hole in the inner fender just above the hold-down for the wiring harness Hope this helps. Jim

The sale was picked up by a popular British tabloid. http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/4672415/Dad-uses-sexy-photos-daughter-sell-cars.html

She must be a biker babe - and a twenty-footer at that, not much of an assist in my estimation. At least she didn't climb into the engine bay.

Drawing on my own recent "been there, done that" experience, the lock component doe not have to come off the steering column to replace the electrical component. The electrical switch is attached to the back side of the lock with two screws. Get the covers off and trace the wiring to the plug on the switch. It typically involves a bit of contortionist work in the floorboard to see the screws but everything is accessible, if a bit tricky. A screwdriver with a magnetic bit is a great help in getting it back together.

Here is a recent thread that thoroughly covers your question: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread47334.html

Here is the kit I used to rebuild my calipers, it does contain the o-ring seals for the two halves of the caliper assembly if you choose to split them. The kit fits all S-30's and is available from Auto Zone, RockAuto, perhaps others. It is on closeout at RockAuto right now for $2.20 each (1 caliper). Google "Brakeware 66721" to locate them.