jfa.series1

$930 bid with 3 hours to go!

I had the same results with a few women in my life!

This is often a symptom of the backside of the ignition switch going out - the part with the electrical connections. Replacement does not require removal of the switch assembly from the steering column, no new ignition key, ...etc. If you have no more problems, lucky guy. If sticking returns, there are lots of posts in the forum to get you through this fairly easy fix.

Here's another vote for Mike and the great products and service he provides. I purchased quite a few rubber items from Mike that simply are not available elsewhere. His decal sets are awesome and he has the authentic Nissan blue engine paint.

Damn - those are really pretty! Unique with the chrome trim and exterior mount. Some agressive bidding going on and almost 3 days yet to run on the auction. Any speculation on where they will top out?

Busted link, no joy.

Also available directly thru Nissan Parts - check your local dealer. I paid $13.65 for five 2 years ago.

Don't overlook your local Nissan dealer. I am switching back to rubber bushings away from poly, I don't like the ride quality. Courtesy Nissan Parts website came up with all the bushings for the rear LCA's. The inner bushings are 55554-E4100 at $13.78 and 55555-E4100 at $11.49. Outer bushings are 55541-E4100 at $9.57. As MSA points out, they are all the same for 240-260-280Z's. Hope this helps.

Chris - good eye for ergonomics. The switch position has never been a problem in these many years. Two reasons: 1. it is seldom used and 2. I cannot recall needing to use it while belted in and underway. Sidenote: when I restoed the car, I opted to switch out the 40 year-old belts for the Wesco roadster-style 3-point belts with retractor. The retractor end mounted nicely where the shoulder belt attached with no interior mods. Very comfortable and convenient. On the extra dash switch above the hazard light switch. While I had the dash out I located the factory wiring for fog lamps and installed a toggle switch as a future investment should I later want to add fog or driving lights (with a proper relay of course!). Thanks for your comments. Jim

When I first saw my car over 41 years ago on the dealer's showroom floor, they had yanked the stock AM radio and installed an 8-track unit (GAG!). The antenna switch had been relocated to the side of the console with a couple of small self-threading screws where it resides today. Oh yes, I had the 8-track yanked in favor of a Datsun AM/FM unit - but even that unit did not have the slider switch for the antenna. On the side of the console, the antenna switch is pretty well out of sight yet easy to locate and operate - in the picture, it is just to the right of the lighter.

Thanks for posting the link to the article. Reading on down thru all the thread comments, it is refreshing to see all the positive statements about the Z. The fans of our cars are far more widespread than we might ever imagine.

Here's B.B. King with "The Thrill Is Gone". Not every car is a "forever car", I agree with Arne: sometimes you just have to move on. Good luck with the new ride.

Ben, This is essentially Excel on-line. Go to the row where your car should be and perform an insert - example: if you should be between 10 and 11, go to 11 and click on the row # to select the entire row. Next, right click and select insert row. You will get a new row to enter your data. Be sure to enter your new row in the correct sequence of VIN #'s. Don't depend on someone sorting the file for you. All new entries and changes are auto-saved. Let us know how it works for you. Jim

Learning at the knee of the master.

To the best of my knowledge, this is not part of Carl Beck's IZCC.

They are SS and can respond well to buffing with jeweler's polish. You will likely end up with a brighter finish than factory original so if restoring to "as delivered", this is not a good solution for concours judging. I buffed out all my stainless frames, drip rails, and front & hatch gasket inserts and am very pleased with the appearance. Jim

Hey DJ - here is a quick registry update you can do: the on-line spreadsheet has an entry for your new ride, see row 256. Consider entering your actual engine #. Jim http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry

Welcome from another Series 1 owner, also a 12/70 car. We need the intimate details of VIN and pics ASAP. Keep us posted on your findings.

Yes - a dog with his own set of wheels. Some serious heart in that cartoonist. Go Buckles!

Jeff, My thin seat back foam was in good shape, left it all in place for the new covers. I suggest you replace yours, it will soften the feel of the covers and absorb small impacts that might otherwise ding the vinyl on the seat backs. Jim

Another welcome from N. TX. Its a big state, where are you located?

I've got one of those on display at my home, just did not save the packing materials. Strange that his description says it is in white when it is clearly orange - just like mine. A backstory on this model is that the mint used a car restored by Bill Reagan of the Z Club of Texas for all of its detail work.

Check out his profile - you will find a serious enthusiast, no doubt having some fun with his user name.

If I recall correctly, the FSM has some specific guidance on setting the "at rest" position of the slave rod. It should not be way loose as you say, should have a bit of pre-tension on it. Your problem does sound like you are not getting a full disengagement on the clutch.