jfa.series1

Hey John - I know of at least one original Spook you won't be getting hold of! Good luck with your search. Jim

Agreed, not too many folks have seen the first BRE Spook. It was used only one year and did not gain popularity. So, that makes mine a bit of an oddity, perhaps a collectors item for a few. In addition to the Spook, the dealer also installed the BRE rear spoiler, show here also rehabbed and installed as part of my resto effort. I agree completely with the mention of handling differences at anything above 90 mph - and the Spook is effective at those speeds and above. [ATTACH=CONFIG]47044[/ATTACH] Jim

This is my BRE Mk 1 or Series 1 Spook that was already installed by the dealer when I bought my car 03/31/71. It has been fully re-habbed and will be back on the car soon. . It was the first design from BRE and used in 1970 competition only, to the best of my knowledge. Check the BRE archive pictures (link below) to see the 1970 car and the change on their 1971 cars to the design more commonly associated with the early BRE Spook. I suspect the first design did not provide adequate downforce, hence the redesign for 1971. http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=B&Category_Code=brearchivephotos240zs Jim

Hooray!!! Another Series 1 identified and into some caring hands. Enjoy The Ride! Be sure to share your VIN and more pictures with us. As others have said, go slowly and build a manageable plan for your work - a modest bite at a time. Get lots of pictures as you take things apart. Jim

If you are trying for something similar to the original, then you would be looking for a 5-piece kit, looped (not cut) carpet. Brian Rolfe at Seatz Mfg. has resto quality products for your interior, prices are typically no higher than MSA, BD, or others. http://www.seatzmfg.com/seatz/index.htm Jim

Banzai Motorworks has the end mount insulators for your front and rear bumpers. If you get the front ones, the thick part is positioned to the body. Jim http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRubber.php

Not to get into a debate, but I think you may be looking at the power flow direction incorrectly. I don't see the power as coming from the harness to the connector. If that is the case, where is the harness getting its power? I see power flowing TO the switch from either the small connector OR the red wire. The switch then sends power thru the harness to the blower. Thus my argument above for an inflight engineering change to replace an inadequate power supply and ground TO the switch (the small connector) with a larger ga. wire and a shorter ground wire. BTW, the rear defroster switch wire connects to a pair of blade connectors in the bundle to the right of the console: green/blue (switch wire) to blue, red (switch wire) to red/black. Jim

Ok, our build dates are close enough together to have similar or the same parts. I think what we are seeing is another of the evolutionary changes during the early build cycle. My theory: the sub-harness started out with the small connector as the power source and ground. The wiring ga. was too light for the load so the single red wire (larger ga.) and the single black wire (larger ga. and a shorter ground length) were added to the harness as replacements. One look at the harness shows these to be after-thoughts, not well engineered into the original design. That is why the '71 Supplemental FSB diagram shows the original connector as a "ghost" and does not identify it - they did not want you to use it. Use the two added wires instead. I completely agree with you that if both sets are connected, a fuse or two will go, or even worse!!! When I pulled my dash, I did not disconnect the sub-harness, so my red wire and black wire remained attached as installed at the factory. That helps me explain why I did not tag the small connector - it was not attached to anything to tag as I broke various connections. My red wire is attached in the large bundle to the right of the console, I will take a look and get back to you with what I find. Jim

Coop - thanks. I will dive back in there and search for a male connector on the main harness. It has to be very close because of the limited reach from the switch mounting point. On the main power item, the FSM identifies a single red wire as providing the power, connection #55 on the diagram. I have that wire in place and connected to the main harness, as well as #56, the ground connected to the dash frame. Is it possible there is a difference in our two sub-harnesses? What is your build date? Jim

The antenna switch is also accounted for. It too, is in the right side bundle. No cigar yet. I just wrapped up all the dash area electrical connections this afternoon, including the steering column. No orphan male connectors with two wires anywhere in the area. I suspect this one is a factory orphan. Here is a picture of it and my almost complete dash install, this may stir someone's recollection. Heck, if we get enough guesses, we may find a good use for it. :bulb: Jim

Arne - I had the defroster switch wire marked and it is back together. It is part of the large bundle with the vinyl wrapper on the right side of the console. Jim

The intermediate wiring harness for the blower switch has a small connector that is not identified in the Supplemental FSM. The connector has provisions for 3 pins but has only two wires - red and blue. I'm referring to page 26 of the '71 Supplemental FSM. As I reconnect my electrical system, I'm trying to ensure there are no orphans. I did not mark this connector back when I tore it down, so it may have been unused at that time. Any ideas? Thanks, Jim

A variation on the kill switch is a well-hidden kill fuse. My brother-in-law has done this to all of his project cars. As mentioned above, the ignition-to-starter solenoid wire (black/white on my car) is a good candidate - not all cars have an electric fuel pump. Identify a place in the car to well conceal a fuse receptacle that you can still acess conveniently. Not an obvious spot like the glove box or ash tray. Don't share the fuse location with others. Locate the ignition wire inside the car, cut and splice in a similar ga. wire pair to your secret location. Solder in the fuse receiver wires, don't use quick disconnects or butt connectors that could allow the fuse to be easily bypassed if located. Then it is only a matter of pulling the fuse whenever you park the car. Jim

I recently had a return/exchange with MSA, it was handled very well. They also gave me a store credit for my return shipping cost. As Arne says, give them a chance to correct the problem. It is unreasonable to expect MSA or any other store to inspect every part they stock. Jim

Let the fun begin!!! Congratulations on getting possession of your new obsession (or perhaps it is the other way around). Jim

RockAuto is a great source for your parts, excellent service and super prices. Google for a RockAuto discount, you will always find a 5% code active. MSA provides a typical 10% discount for club members on many but not all parts, never on sale items. I am registered to Carl Beck's Internet Z Car Club as well as belonging to my local group, Z Club of Texas. This got me into discount status. Establish a logon with MSA then contact their customer service with your club affilation details. If accepted, they will update your account so that when you log in, all pricing will show applicable discounts. Jim

Have you checked with Bruce at Z Therapy?

A bit more detail: when you get the FSM Supplement, on page 27 see that item 55 connects to item 34. Item 54 is an orphan if you don't have A/C. Jim

Good suggestion on downloading the FSM Supplement, it is very detailed in this area. On my dash (now out of the car) the black is a ground as Steve says. It is attached to a bolt on the rearmost left bracket of the center dash right above where it mounts to the tunnel. The red wire is the blower power and is attached to a similar gauge blue wire in one of the two bundles on the right side of the center dash. Finally, the FSM supplement says the blue wire is the A/C power where so equipped, and I agree. Mine went to the A/C on/off switch, is now stubbed off since I have pulled the A/C. Jim

I thought I would wrap up this post with some shots of the completed switch install. The toggle switch is one I have had for many years - a leftover from a boat project, and a far better switch than you can buy today. Just try to find one with a chrome center to compliment the hazard switch. After opening up the dash, the hole is decidedly "old school" from when switches had a larger diameter mounting shaft. It is about 5/8" to 11/16" with a flat on one side to prevent a switch from rotating. Today's toggle switches are typically 15/32" for a 1/2" hole, as is my switch. To provide a finished look AND keep the switch centered in the oversized hole, I made a bezel from a 3/8" SS washer. It was nice and thin and it filled the bottom of the molded hole in the dash. I bored the washer to a slip fit over the switch, then polished the surface. The first pic is the parts set with a stock washer out to the right, then the dash opening, and finally the completed install. All in all, a very satisfying project. Jim

Contact Roger at Z Barn for good used parts. http://www.zbarn.com/index.html Jim

Hi Mitchell, Yes, I will use the holes under the bumper near the license plate mounts. No firm plans for what lights I will eventually use but I have always liked the Cibie' 35's. The rectangular shape compliments the grill and they are consistent with the age of the car. Jim

Problem solved! The Nissan blue tape clearly marked the location of the fog light "provision" wiring. In the first picture, look just to the right of the blue tape and see a female spade connector peeking out like a tiny snake head. After I cut the blue tape and pulled the wiring pair free, here is what I found - the red and green/white pair Enrique wrote about. The wires are long enough to reach a toggle switch installed in the dash above the hazard switch. Dave - thanks again for the guidance on where to look. Jim

Enrique and Dave, Thanks for the feedback. This morning I remembered I have the 1971 FSM Supplement PDF on my PC and gave it a check. Dave - just as you said, the supplement graphic for the dash connectors shows the "provision" for the fog light switch in one of the main bundles running across the top of the dash, the pointer shows it at the junction for the hazard switch set. I will get into the wiring later today and post my findings, with any luck I can get a pic or two. As to the relay caution and guidance, that was my plan all along and I appreciate the reminder. Thanks, Jim

While my dash is out and all the other wiring is fully exposed, I am trying to follow EScanlon's tech post on adding fog lights to a early Z - link below. I want to have this in place should I later decide to hang a set of fog or driving lights on the front. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?23465-Wiring-Fog-Lights-on-the-Early-Z I found the red and black pairs at the front of the car. I also found the green and black/white fuel pump pair and connector he referenced in the dash harness. That is the end of the "finds"! There is no sign of a red and green/white pair with a connector. All of my dash wiring is fully accounted for, no orphans in sight. My FSM says they are a red and red/green pair at the switch connector, no joy there either. The FSM diagram for the various dash connectors has the fuel pump connector but nothing for fog lights. Does anyone know what connector and wire colors carry the front red and black pair on the main harness thru the firewall? I suspect they have changed colors at this point and are mixed into a multi-prong connector. If I can pick them up at the firewall connector, there should be no problem with tracing them further along. Thanks, Jim