jfa.series1

My car came stock with a double nut setup which I still have in place today. That might have changed with later models.

When getting everything back together, don't overlook the second nut on the end of the shaft. It is not shown on the diagram in your original post but you want a double nut to lock the primary nut in place so it does not back off.

For any of you that are tired of dealing with slow and aging turn signal flashers, consider upgrading to an electronic (non-thermal) unit similar to this one. For the purists - it is not OE, but it does make one heck of a difference in the signal flash rate. The same unit can also be used to replace the hazard flasher. These units do not have the small mounting tab that the OE aluminum can styles have on the top. A 1/2" square of Velcro on the top will solve the mounting issue. One of the best updates I ever made! Novita/Turn Signal Flasher (EL12) | AutoZone.com

It also has the correct console, steering wheel, tool storage behind the seats. Interior looks pretty good but the door panels may have been molested with speakers. Too bad about the body kit and sunroof.

No heat shields in that area, just the open cavity between the fender and the spare tire well. Is it possible you have an exhaust leak in the area that is pumping exhaust heat directly at the underside of the body?

Here is my somewhat "defaced" brochure. The document is about 3/8" wider than my scanner bed so I centered it for the scans - there is about a 3/16" loss on the sides of each page.

Those bumper override bars may have some interest to a restorer. Consider advertising them in the classifieds before you discard them.

Be cautious when tightening the exhaust manifold nuts & intake manifold bolts. The max. torque is 8.7 lbs. per the FSM.

Carburetor porn??? Sounds a bit kinky!

The link worked fine for me, very interesting read. Noteworthy update at the top of the page about marine paint now being the product of choice - I suspect it provides a harder finish. I also found a use for oil-based paint (Behr, not Rustoleum) for my interior floorboards. I took my inspection lid to a big box to be scanned and they mixed up a quart to match. They recommended Penetrol to aid in the flow. You can see the match in the pic.

Great looking flares, hope your score some on your upcoming trip. Safe travels!

With two of the three I listed as hiem joints - solid metal and even harder than poly bushings, your dealing with a compliance issue. There is nothing flexible to absorb road shocks so they have to be transmitted back to the wheel. Technically this is not a bump steer issue as you are running stock geometry and a perfect alignment. I think your choice of suspension parts has you well on down the path of "living with it".

Per EuroDat's comment, if you've gone to poly bushings on the control arms, T/C rods and steering rack, you have eliminated all compliance in the suspension and steering. Everything is going to get transmitted directly back to the steering wheel - great for racers and A/X'ers; not so good for the average street car.

Checkout RockAuto - name brands, pre-bent, good prices. Try and avoid the generic ribbed/flex hoses - not the best looking hoses.

Core exchanges are usually after the fact - you get the new one then send in your core for a refund of the core charge. You don't have to send in your core if you don't want to, sometimes the cost to ship it back is greater than the core charge.

Yep, a Series 2 update at the factory and a common replacement upgrade for Series 1 cars with a cracked plastic tank. I thoroughly checked my tank for stress or aging cracks before putting it back in.

Here is the right side of my '71, I'm not sure how it compares to your '76 (had to get it from your profile). You can see it is a pretty busy area, not much room for big speakers - or much of anything else for that matter. Hope this helps.

Chris, That hard line comes from the fuel tank to carry vapors, it connects via a rubber hose to the small manifold to the right. Another rubber line comes to that manifold from a small pipe on the large oil pan breather tube on the block below the dizzy. A line then goes from the manifold to the back of the air cleaner. So... you have the carbs pulling in the vapors from the tank and the pan. I suspect these were changes from the earlier cars. Jim

I can't speak to changes but here are some in-process pics of my 12/70 car as I put it back together. Disregard the FIAM compressor on the left side, everything else is stock. The voltage regulator was not yet installed below the inspection light.

The Series 1's never came with a 5-speed so that is a small fib, lots of strange wiring running around the engine bay. No mention of miles or maintenance but it does look to be in good shape. Original radio and lots of other authentic bits.

Rewinds are also carried by Discount Tire. I bought a tire and wheel pkg., negotiated some savings. If you have one or an affiliate in your area, stop by and check with them. You might be able to avoid some shipping charges.

I agree with Virto - that is probably a 15" Konig Rewind. Note that the 16" Rewind has a less pronounced spoke. Here's a closeup of my 16" wheel.

Let's hope they got in all of the outdoor activities - weather radar show the entire area to be socked in with rain.

You will want to monitor this sub-forum and the classifieds. Ebay and Craigslist

Some additional pics here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ZCon2013/