jfa.series1

That is a great choice as a reference!

You're thinking of something along these lines?

On the radiator support, yes - only the front side gets a blackout. Here are a couple of in-process shots of my front fender wells. I took the shock tower down to bare metal and POR-15'ed it, then masked that area and sprayed truck bed liner as an insulating layer. That will give you an idea of an all black fender well. Don't forget - mud and dirt also shows on black. I painted the shock tower and front side of the footwell with a special paint I had made up, then dusted the fender well with body color. I hope this helps a bit with your decision process.

Lemon Ice sounds delicious, looking forward to a pic of the finished car. If you want to stay with a factory-style scheme, the car will be one color all over including underside, wheel wells, inside the shock towers, ...etc. I've attached a pic of the blackout for the radiator support. From the factory, this was a satin finish but I went with glossy for easier maintenance. I also went with a black underside and started it right where the firewall transitions into the tunnel at the tranny mounts. My wheel wells are body color, not black- it seems to highlight the wheels and tires better.. Your car, your choices.

This is not an Austin club event. This one is put on by the Z Club of Texas out of Dallas and the Cowtown Z Club of Fort Worth. Yes, the event is on and all drivers are welcome - especially those from Canada (the northern border of Texas).

Be cautious that the fabric may be sealed too well. Any cover that traps moisture within can lead to a buildup of condensation and encourage the tin worms to go to work. Car covers typically need to "breathe" to avoid a buildup of moisture.

Some bolts securing the front of the frame are behind the door panel - it must come off for this repair.

I was fortunate that my hardware was is good shape but the straps were faded. A bottle of RIT fabric dye in a bucket of water took care of the color issue.

Over 1,200 posts and this little detail just now slipped up on you. Good lookin' car you've got there Bryan. Hmmm... wonder why I'm so attracted to it?

The bidding ended with the reserve not met, no sale. As to the 10k paint job, depending on the amount of body work that was done + any customization + the prep and type of paint specified, I can understand a job might get that pricey. Resto shops in my area quoted a lot more than that for my car when all I wanted was a nice job - which I ultimately found at a good price.

A color change can be a difficult thing to pull off well. As mentioned above, there is the glaring issue of the big honkin' engine bay. Complicating things are all of the gaskets and seals for the doors, windows, hatch, ..etc., and all the hardware bits on painted surfaces such as door locks, sill plates, light switches, ... it goes on and on. Spend some time slowly walking around your car to spot these points. Perhaps visit a body / paint shop and talk to the painter about what might be involved. Bottom line: its your car and you need to be happy and satisfied with its appearance. If you think a new color is what it will take, go for it and do the best job possible. And... don't forget to keep us all updated on your work. Everyone on this forum lives vicariously thru the efforts of others.

Here's a CL ad for 13 cars soon headed to the crusher in Waxahachie TX. The yard is willing to sell any of them "as is" but is not offering any part-out opportunities. Z cars for sale

Squirt a little WD40 or similar on them, allow to soak a couple of minutes. Tap the clip lightly to break any seal. Go back with the vise grips as suggested. Consider using a large flat blade screwdriver as leverage against the vise grip.

Bryan, Your link is to what I called the lower piece, i.e. inside the door at the rear. Here is the link to the upper piece - for the the visible part of the frame. In MSA terms, you use a "top" and "inner" per door. Motorsport! Door Window Channel Seal, Top, 76-78 280Z, Reproduction - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Yes, these pieces can be replaced seperately. Given the relative low cost and that the frame has to come out, it is usually easier to do all of them at the same time. I recall that I used some weatherstrip adhesive to fix them in place overnight before putting the frame back in. These are the repro pieces I bought from MSA. I think your catalog page is from BD, not Rockauto. Jim

Worn window channel liner is pretty common and an easy fix. Check with MSA or BD for either of two styles: OE or aftermarket. I used aftermarket and found it very satisfactory - nice quality, a good fit and easy install. Be sure to buy all the pieces - upper and lower channel. Remove the stainless window frame, replace channel material, reinstall and align the frame.

Hey Brian, Nice looking car and low miles to boot - good find. The front suspension is pretty intolerant of anything out of whack: shocks, bushings, tire balance, ball joints, alignment, ...the list goes on. Front end shake coming up to the steering wheel is a common symptom. if you choose bushings other than rubber, expect a loss of compliance - that translates into a more harsh ride, noise, and a lot more feedback thru the wheel. If the car is be a driver with little or no track or AX usage, I recommend sticking with Nissan stock bushings - typically available from your local dealer or Courtesy. Be prepared to go through the entire front end to identify and resolve these aging issues. Be advised that rubber steering rack bushings are NLA, polyurethane is just about the only game in town. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

Congratulations. Does she introduce you as "her CURRENT husband"????

Here is a link to Jim Frederick's collection in Florida. Lots of pics and some videos of older cars. Suncoast Z Car Club - Jim Frederick

Outstanding bit of fabrication work and it looks good in the car. Most important - you like the results!!! Good job, earns a bonus "attaboy".

KYB's are reported to be a softer ride. HP's are definitely a firm ride - I've got them on my car. Be sure to keep your front and rear springs marked so you don't accidently mix or swap them. Check out the strut bearings installed on the front insulators - lube or replace as required. The rear insulators do not have bearings but do have a rubber insert that is frequently overlooked - replacements are available from Nissan. Here is the link to the online catalog where you can get the Nissan P/N's: Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Parts Manual

A great anniversary for you both - congratulations! That's a really nice car you have there. Fewer and fewer original owners of Series 1 cars still around. My car and I observed this same number back on 03/31. May you have many more miles and years between the two of you.

That's a very pretty car you have there. If you suspect a wheel is further out on one side, I suggest you get the car onto a lift and thoroughly check the lower control arms and all the bushings. Bad shocks and/or springs might give you a bit of decamber but should not create a lateral shift. With the car on a lift, raise and lower the suspect wheel to see if you spot movement/play around any of the bushings - inner and outer.

The pierced-spoke steering wheels started with the Series 2 cars at the end of January 1971.

I'm sure this is somehow related to the burnt clutch!

Wheel porn! Beautiful. Can get some serious rubber on the road with 7.5 width if there are still decent 14" tires available.