jfa.series1

Don't expect the 2.4L to be running quite as well afterwards!

I bought the ones from Black Dragon and am well pleased. The replacement stainless strip looks good but is not pre-curved to fit the door. With some care and effort, it can be warped into shape. I opted to move the rubber over to my old stainless and used pop-rivets for attachment. Per tlorber's caution, pop rivets have to be installed carefully to keep them away from the glass.

Here is a recent discussion on WS kits. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48998-another-msa-door-weatherstrip-problem.html

It sounds like you and the wife are very much a well-matched set. Congrats!

Joey - Hardway makes some excellent points on record keeping and photos. Take more photos than you think you might need - storage space is cheap and you can always cull them out later. I ran an Excel spreadsheet through my project. One tab tracked my "needs" as I identified them by car area (engine, suspension, interior, ...etc.) with columns of sources to the right as I did my price comparisons and then built orders. My "purchases" were on a second tab, also organized by car area. As each item was purchased I removed it from the needs list. I also tracked all my purchased consumables in a separate section - that alone went to over $1,500!!! I can send you a copy of the file if you have an interest, PM me with your contact info. Good luck and enjoy the project. Jim

Here's a link to Rockauto for their current round of closeouts for '71 Z's. RockAuto Auto Parts

You can play with the number of spacers at the front and rear to change the angle of the seat bottom to suit your tush. Try different combos to see what you like best. Any spacers not used on top of the rail should be installed under the rail so as not to lose them.

I have my extinguisher mounted on the forward side of the RR shock tower. Its out of the way for stuff going in and out of the luggage area, yet very easy to reach from the driver's seat.

Sid - not sure how you have installed the MSA muffler, but this is what worked well for me. All tucked up and barely visible from the rear. Hope this helps. Jim

Check your area for local references - typically look for a good independent with foreign cars on the lot. Watch out for the chains that will pad your bill with unneeded extras.

FWIW - the part in your hand is called a steering knuckle. If you have both of them off, be sure to keep track of the side they came from as they are a left side and right side item.

I know nothing about auto painting other than what I observed at my painter's shop, but here is one caution: as you expose the bare metal, oxidation will set in immediately. Its not going to rust right before your eyes but you need to be aware of this if your sanding is extended over any significant amount of time. You probably do want to get down to bare metal to removel dead paint & primer that may lift off later. You will also want to get some experience with skim coats, filler, and high-build primers to smooth out dings and irregularities. I'm sure others with experience will provide some guidance for you in this area. Good luck.

That would be assault with a tootly weapon!

That's a nice piece of work. Thanks for posting.

I tapped the clock power for a constant on.

I suspect she knows you only too well!

With a really good base car as a starting point (no rust, no busted engine/tranny, ...etc.) you can easily drop an additional $10-15k into a resto effort - and that is with you doing most of the labor at no out-of-pocket cost. Buy the very best starting platform you can locate and afford. The San Mateo car posted above already has a lot of updates, might just be that starting point. A plane ticket down there and drive back to BC might be a good investment!

That San Mateo car looks like an excellent value, great starting point for any further updates.

Abosolutely freaking wierd! What - a really dumb Monte Python ripoff? I did enjoy the brief Cajun music soundtrack.

+1 on the FIAMM duals. I've had them for many years and never had a difficulty in making my presence understood. Perhaps you find yourself behind too many zombie drivers totally tuned out of the world and focused on their texting.

A 160 deg. thermostat really doesn't allow the engine to get up to optimum operating temps. The OE replacement unit is 180 or 190 depending on which supplier you are looking at. With that slick new 3-row cooler out front I recommend you switch to the higher temp. unit. Been there, done that, glad I did!

Very nice tip. Thanks for posting!

Also 41 3/8" across the rear lip.

If I recall correctly from making patches to fill the A/C line openings in my inner fender, the Z body panel thickness is about .030 - .032". So, measure the thickness of the donor panel you are considering. Another consideration will be the rigidity of your donor metal - can you easily form the curves for your patches? An option might be to visit a junk yard and obtain a scrap body part that can be cut and formed to shape. It will probably be within a couple of thousandths of the correct thickness.

If Detroit continues to tear down all the abandoned properties, there will be a lot of "return to nature" to see. Get out the shotguns boys, dinner may be closer than you think.