jaltman

Thank you. Any reason not to use them on the 73?

Attached is a picture of a whell that the seller I bought from included with my purchase a number of years ago. I have never tried to use them. The wheels that came on the car require the use of spacers that I think upsets the geometry of the front end, but wanted to wear out the tires on the car before changing to other wheels. Looking through this thread I see no wheels just like this. My question is, for a 73 240z could these be OEM wheels? They measure 15 inches across and I know the oem tire spec was 14, but I dont know if that could include an inch for mounting etc. Does anyone recognize these wheels? If they are the anatomically correct wheels, I have four and would like a fifth. A spare tire would be a nice thing.

After a not altogether insignificant amount of effort the old relief valve is out and replaced. Oil now flows through the filter and all is well. I had to destroy the old valve to get it out, it fell apart instead of coming out clean. Fortunately its made of rather soft metal as opposed to the rather hard block.

Thanks for the quick reply. I have been using Mobil 1 filters, which do have the flappy valve inside the inlet holes. Of course, that doesn't mean they work. My concern was heightened by the way it looked like the filter was dry as opposed to recently drained. Of course this could mean its the Mobil 1 filter that had too stiff a flappy thing. OTOH, for $4.76 I can well afford to just replace the pressure relief valve.

Please allow me to revive this thread. I have noticed that my oil filter has stayed empty on the last change and I would suppose from this thread that means my pressure relief valve is stuck open. Its not exactly obvious to me how the pressure relief valve is in the oil filter area or how to remove it. Does anyone have a picture or can, perhaps, describe it for me so I can try and pry it out and examine? Edit, btw, oil pressure is good, the top end is nice and wet with oil, all indications are that oil is getting every where it needs to be.

Not too long ago I sprung a leak in my radiator in my 1973 240z, and took it to my friendly neighborhood radiator shop for repair. Now I have a new and different leak appearing. So I figure its time to just replace the thing. Perusing the purveyors of radiators I find an array of options. There is copper/brass and aluminum. There are one row, two row and three. There are $150.00 up to around $300.00. In my 1980 TR8, a car with perpetual cooling issues, a very hot running engine, I have an aluminum 1 giant row radiator that has done quite well. Its an aluminum engine. What recommendations for a selection to you all have and why.

According to my wiring diagram (you are right it is missing from some diagrams) it comes off the LR (Blue Red wire coming off the ignition switch, goes through a 30A in line fuse. It looks like the switch itself is on the ground side of things. In my car there is a air wound resistor pack in the air flow at the right hand side of the blower box. You might also want to check the two in-line connectors about six inches from where the wires come out of the blower motor. I had a bit of an intermittent on one of those connectors once.

Well, what I did was discover that two days ago, in the pouring rain, I had forgotten to turn off my headlights and when I wanted to drive it to work it was stone cold dead. So what i did today is jump start it and pull it in up close to where I could put the bettery on a charger. Steve: How cool is that! Some years ago I was driving my TR8 up Highway 515 in Gilmer County when a guy in a pickup truck beeps and starts waiving. It was the guy I had bought the 8 from some years earlier. We pulled to the side of the riad and spent a nice time chatting.

See this thread.

Here is a bit more information. Poking around it appears to be a 1990 Honda Civic. Other years either side are probably the same. The lil hose appears to attach back into the system on the output side of the fan, forcing air back through the motor, so I certainly would not plug the hole. I can't speak to the current draw, as I have already installed and pretty much buried the wiring. I was out last night and driving about and might revise my earlier statement, low might be almost as much air as high was on the old fan. It looks like new fans run around $50 without the squirell cage another $30-40 for the cage. The stock wiring is 2 spades, so some modification of the OE wiring would be required to replace one spade with a round connector. All in all the ebay guy selling with prewired connectors (nicely done i will point out) with free shipping looks competitely priced (or slightly above by only a few dollars) which made the convenience of plug and play worth any extra $$. Mi dos pesos.

It might be the 88-92 Honda Civic, from what I can find the 280 has a smaller opening and the Honda squirrel cage is too big and the opening needs some grinding, its fine on the 240. I wouldn't say the new low is equal to the old high, mine is less than that, its low, but medium is well over the old high and high is hurricane force winds. Not sure what to do with the lil hose either. Mine came with a lil hose to attach to it, but it just hangs there and adds nothing. My guess is that if its sucking some cooling air onto the motor it should not be sealed up, but left to draw a bit of cabin air into the motor. Its definitely a slight suction through the hose. I am going to leave it be.

I just bought from this guy on ebay. Not sure which Honda, but he put a lil plug adapter together for it that makes it absolutely plug and play. Yes, all the holes line right up. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Honda-Fan-Blower-Motor I had to unscrew the glovebox, but not actually remove it, a lil stubby got the top screw out from the old fan. BTW, be sure to reach inside and pull out any leaves and such you can find inside the inards. Three screws, two wires and done.

I installed the Honda heater blower motor today. For those of you who have not done this, WOW! What a difference.

Got my new ignition switch today, so now I can actually crank and start my car (a nice feature). Put the pertronix in as directed, red to the 12v on run side and it starts and runs fine. Ticks right off.

I talked to Pertronix today and they said to hook it up on the side that has 12v during the run position. The fact it only gets 6v. during starting will be ok. From this I conclude that voltage is not really that critical. So, thats what they said. I gotta wait for some other electrical parts to arrive, but further reports are forthcoming.

That will certainly work, with an internally ballasted coil, but people seem to be using the pertronix with the stock coil. The way I read the schematic, there is 12v on one side of the resistor in run and 12v on the other side duriing start, but never 12 v always on one side of the resistor. By connecting the pertronix to the ballast you can have 12v during starting, during running, but not both.

O.K. I have read and read and remain confused about where to put the red wire on the pertronix unit. I put it in and connected it to the 12v side of the resistor (or so I think). Car wouldn't start. Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like the BW side of the resistor only has power when the ignition switch is in run and the GW side is 12v in start, but only 6v. in run. What am I missing? Physically, which side of the resistor did y'all attach to? Firewall or headlights?

No, there is an o-ring where the needle mates to the piston in the tube. Over time that o-ring will decay from the effects of the oil and need replacement. ATF is about the same weight as your 3-in-1 and will not decay the o-ring.

There was a thread sometime back on cold start troubles and whether it was carb or electrical etc etc. My 73 240z has gotten harder and harder to start when cold. Cold is a relative item here, south of the Mason-Dixon line, it has only been below freezing a couple times this year. Nonetheless I went out to drive the z yesterday and it would not fire off. It would start to fire, but would not catch. Finally, I had killed the battery and quit, got into the 1980 TR8 and went to work. I got new SU's from z-therapy last summer and they have been, otherwise, great. I redid points plugs, wires, condensor, etc last fall. The only virgin thing in the car from when I bought it a couple years ago was the coil. So I went to O'Reily's and poped $21.99 for brand new 'made in china' coil. Ploped it in and BAM! Fired right up. I mean instantly. So, I hate to quote old wives tales, but 90% of all carburettor problems are electrical in nature.

At first I was thinking the ballast resistor might be keeping the spark too low at startup, but on reviewing the wiring diagram, like many cars, the ballast resistor is out of the circuit during startup. Measure voltage at the + on the coil. It should be 6 volts with the key in the on position and 12 volts with the key in start. If its not, I'd look at the ignition switch. If the startup voltage at the coil is too low, it'll be hard to start when cold, but ok when the car is warm, since 6 volts is the normal running voltage anyway. Edit: 2 other thoughts, if startup voltage is weak (<12 volts), jumper 12 volts to it from the battery, but dont leave it there too long after the car starts. See what happens. Thought 2, got a spare coil? An old weak coil might produce the same symptom.

The restaurants have been able to for quite a while now, its the grocery and liquor store that can also open now too.

I too have installed Dave's harness and love it. But the simple fact is that the alternator is underrated and at idle the lights dim and the heater fans slows and etc etc.

I bought a pair of new z-therapy carbs to replace my flattops. Got em in today. Went very nicely. My heat shield did not have holes to hook the throttle return springs to, but my hole installation device assisted perfectly. My idle is a lil rough, which i assume to be the mixture needing adjustment, but i thought i'd give it a couple days running so I can look at the plugs and have a clue to go richer or leaner. Runs great tho, (after giving a the bowls a chance to fill) it fired right up and went hot it also fired right up. Nice!!! Thanks z-therapy!

Disconnect and short the two wires together at the sending unit, that ought ot send the gauge to full and it ought to stay there. If it does, its your sending unit. If it goes to full and returns to empty again, then its your gauge.

Having spent the last 15 years working on cars with genuine Lucas electrical systems, z's are a piece of cake