jaltman

It took me a couple extra days to get to it, but Dave - you the man! Indeed a very professionally constructed product, the headlight mod. Very simple to install and works like a charm. If you haven't done it, do it now. Piece o cake. Now to get my new ztherapy carbs installed. So shiney I hate to put em in the car, .

@spitz17 Received today! Looks great thanks so much. Give me a couple weeks to complete the conversion and ... if any one needs a 73 air box, just let me know. What a great group.

@spitz17, great! thanks! PM away with info. @Travel'n Man I tried to get Roger by phone and email, but I gather he has other things on his mind right now, completely understandably. What a great group! Once I get all the new stuff installed and running I will "pay it forward" by offering anyone who needs a 73 air box the same, shipping only. What a great group!

I am about to replace my flat tops with some round tops from ztherapy and am searching for 72 round opening air cleaner box to mate to them. I have checked my usual sources and can't find one. There was one on ebay, but I fell asleep and missed the end of the auction (). Does anyone have one in the garage or parts bin they are willing to part with? I am not concerned with cosmetic purity as I own a nice supply of sand paper and know where to buy orange paint. Thanks for checking.

It could also be a faulty temp sensor in the fuel injection. ECU thinks the car is cold when its warm. There should be two, an engine temp sensor and an air temp sensor. An electrical supply can sell you real freeze spray. The upside down air isn't bad, but freeze spray is the real thing. I will go out pn a limb and doubt its the thermotime switch, it operates for 8 seconds at startup to turn on the cold start injector. Pull the plug off it or the cold start injector when hot and behaving badly, no change eliminates it as a possible problem.

So.... if you got a 72-3 center console, hmmmm, what kind of condition is it in? Pictures? Choke mounting post intact? Lil pins to hold the the choke/belt/defog panel into place? If in good shape I might be interested in making a contribution to your "correct console purchase fund". Contact me with a private message if you're interested.

Got my headlight harness in the mail today, thanks Dave. Will post my review upon installation (hopefully this weekend). Edit: Lookin under my hood - oh my - piece of cake. Installation couldn't look easier. 15 minutes tops, most of that time cleaning where the ground wires will go. I will probably still wait for this weekend only so I can do it in the early A.M. before the heat of the day. Its been 90+ everyday (except one at 89) since Memorial Day.

Or, another alternative tire man theory. Find a really really older guy, one that doesn't use the computer balance, but, balances the wheels and tires ON THE CAR. I got a tire shop that does that, one guy in the car hands on wheels, another hand on fender. Spin the wheel real fast, adjust till no vibration. Absolutely, positively the smoothest ride I have ever felt. Balances not just the wheels and tires, but everything that spins, the axle, brakes, etc. Takes a lil longer, costs a lil more, but, as I said, absolutely, positively the smoothest ride known to man. Then find someone to balance the drive shaft.

Very good reading, thanks for posting all this.

Still finding PO things to fix (8 months after purchase). The heater control cables went to the wrong items. 73 Z w/ after market a/c. The a/c covers up the fresh air door, so I can't loosen that cable. Got the other 3 loose and had enough slack to pull the control unit out far enough to un-do the door control from the other end. Now when I ask for fresh air, I get fresh air. When I ask for defrost, I get defrost. Life is more good. Now for some beautiful day holiday driving.

While the Healey's sell for more, the same complaints exist for lots of cars. The MGB and TR6/7/8 folks all complain about the same thing. Having owed (or still own) some of each of these, you buy for 3-7k, put that much again into em, and they are still worth 3-7k. Nice cars, but you'll never get more out of than you paid, pretty much no matter how much you put in em. Its life. This is not an investment, its a fun way to get to work, or the mountains, or the lake or whatever. A Jensen-Healey would fun some day.

I was parked in rear, secured, area of the county jail (I work there) in my 73 z and a sheriff's deputy in a county pickup truck backed into my car, ouch. Fortunately, he missed the bumper and hit the hood. Unfortunately, it bent not only the hood sheet, but also the structural crossmember on the underside of the hood making a straightening operation out of the question. So, I assume a new hood from Black Dragon (or similar source) will be a smaller guage steel than a good older hood made in 70's. I have found a couple old hoods at Z Car Atlanta and am going to go look at them on Thursday, but am wondering if anyone knows of any other Atlanta sources that might have an old hood. Yes, the county is paying for it . I got the estimate back today and it included an appraisal of the car as whole. I was quite amazed that he valued it as "high retail" in excellent condition and worth $20,150.00! Wow! Neat!

I will scan and post purely to see if my scan is more readable, it may take a couple days, but I will post it or a link to it here.

I have come into possession of a Nissan publication entitled Modification Plus which is a Nissan manual for fuel system modifications from the factory relating to the 73/74 240-260 fuel systems focusing on the flat top carbs. It has a bunch of modification, recall information and troubleshooting info. I have not seen this document available elsewhere. I am prepared to scan it into a pdf and post it for general availablitiy. If I am simply missing it, then I will not bother with scanning it. It is dated August 1975. Is this document already out there?

Me too, me too. Got my rebuilt turn signal switch back and installed today. Its like brand new, looks great, works great. Thanks Dave. I'll be back for more.

Apparent epilogue: The fuse in the in-line holder was a fuse too physically small for the holder, contact was poor and there was apparent heat damage to the fuse, although it was not blown. The switch also exhibited signs of intermittent contact, which with a lil exercise was healed. I have a spare if needed later. So, the voltage is now stable at the grid, but I will need a day where its use is needed to be sure. The weatherman predicts suitable testing weather in the upcoming week.

No, your belts should not squeal. That indicates they are too loose. You must do more than hand tighten them, a pry bar is required. There should be about an inch and half of belt slack in the center of the open space between spinning things when the engine is off. Squealing is slipping. Too loose wont keep the battery charged on the alternator.

Thanks to both of you. I see whats going on now. I have also found that the fuse is an inline behind/under the radio, so I think first thing is to dig it out and clean and retension those connections. Steve, thanks for the offer, wont work this weekend. I am "on-call" overnight tonight and, it being Saturday night, there will be lots of bad boys out and about so my phone will ring often all night. Then my wife has a few things for me once I can get some sleep. I'd like to get together and meet, you have kindly been helpful before. I'll pm you once I see how next weekend pulls together.

I have a 73 240z. Given our recent spat of cold weather (and an intervening sunny day above 40) I have decided to dig into why the read defrost is not working. I have studied all the various wiring diagrams and most of the ones i have dont even show the defrost. The grid looks good. One side's wire goes to ground, there is about 5k resistance across the grid, continuity generally checks good everywhere i checked it. There appears to be a relay in the actual wiring that does not appear in any of my wiring diagrams. A very nice 14v appears at the hot side wire to the grid when I turn the switch, but it then cuts off and goes to zero. I can hear the relay, but can't tell which one is clicking by touch. If I power cycle the switch power returns again at the grid for a moment. So, I suspect the relay has intermittent contact. Its kind of a PITA to get the relay board out as it partly blocked by the A/C added in, in front of it. Anyone know which relay is the culprit? As a lesser question, I have the XenonS30 FSM and various wiring diagrams I have found on the internet, but is there a wiring diagram that actually shows all the wiring, including the relays etc? 2 out of 3 I have dont even show the rear defrost, none show the light attached to the switch, none show the actual colors of the wires to the switch before/after the connector behind the switch on the fuse panel cover.

The two holes that are under the seats, does anyone know what size they are for the plugs that belong in them? TIA