jaltman

and... Just for future reference.... 195 is the width of the tire in millimeters. 70 is the aspect ratio or profile and means the sidewalls are 70% of the width, and the diameter is 14 inches. The 195/70-14 is 10 mm wider and 7 mm taller in the sidewall than the 185/70-14.

Perhaps this once again proves the old adage that 90% of all carburettor problems are electrical in nature.

Thanks for alerting me to him. A bit far to run to for a part, but sounds like a fun outing to go and look around his yard. (Sure, I know I can call, but just looking around sounds like fun.) BTW, just a footnote to my electrical problem today, interestingly, the fuse didn't blow electrically. It failed mechanically. What I realized is that it failed on a street leading away from my voting place which has been the beneficiary of some of the massive sewer work taking place intown. Lots of streets in the neighborhood are in varying states of destruction. The fuse link was broken loose from the end cap and not melted.

Yeah, I used to have a cheap old Radio Shack meter I carried in one of the Triumphs, but it perished and I only have my good Fluke now. I got home and pulled out the meter and found a good looking fuse that was, in fact, bad. It was the center left, label "flasher" which I took to mean Hazard rather than turn signals. All is well now, except for the melted spot on the center right hand fuse. Guess I will start foraging for a new fuse box. Thanks for the help today, Steve, I appreciate it. If you have an occasion to foray into downtown, let me know. Lets have lunch.

Thanks. I work on Mitchell St., but I spend most of my time at the Fulton County Courthouse and the jail out on Rice St. I spent a wonderful several hours yesterday during the bomb scare! .

A spot of quick help if I may. On my way to work today the gauges (all of em electrical, incl the tach) my turn signals, the seat belt and choke light all died. I looked in the fuse box and none look to be blown, but I wasn't sure which one is the right one. I swapped a few around and did not resurrect the system. This is a 73 240z. Headlights, parking and side lights are all fine. I dont have a meter here at work, so I can't check to see that there is actually power at the fuses. I know that behind the radio there is at least one in-line fuse, but its a lil impratical to check at work. Which fuse handles those lights? I also noticed what looked like some fresh heat damage on one of the middle on the right. So, for my 73 that ought to be a short pigtail fuse box, right? Any help such that I might have turn signals on my way home appreciated.

Wow! That'd be neat. They have been unobtainium for a while, so I bet there would enough people wanting new ones to make a production run worthwhile.

I am looking for those impossible to find rubber parts for the 1973 bumpers. My bumpers are good, but devoid of rubber, both front and rear. Thanks for looking in that junk box..

Shoot! Missed your post in time to get the fender emblems, but i got a map light lens if you're still in need.

I would say its unnecessary on a permanent basis. Low pressure mechanical pumps for carb systems need minimal pressure, 2-3 psi is normal. Just enough to keep the float bowls full. Absent a bad pump, 2 or 3 psi at idle means its fine. Pressure wont change much, but it might fluctuate some as the float valves open and close. FI systems, which use a much higher pressure, 36 psi in my FI V8, but again, if the pump and regulator are working, its working. Hi Pressure FI systems have check valves in the pumps to maintain pressure between runs, so you can test for a bad check valve. I have an external meter, but only use it from time to time, last time to check for a slow leak in my FI car in a hidden area under the plenum on my FI V8. I could smell gas, but not see it. Since pressure fell off when turned off, i removed the plenum to find an injector hose cracked and leaking. A permanent meter for an FI system might provide a bit more entertainment value, but, ultimately, you have enough pressure and the car is running, or you are sitting on the side of the road looking at your zero pressure.

So, Rick, got a rig in your Zed? I've thought about moving my Kenwood 742 out of my 1980 TR8 into the Zed since I have been spending more time in it.... 73 de w4uck

o.k. so, a brief moment with google reveals: http://www.billcasselman.com/cwod_archive/zed.htm http://www.randomhouse.com/wotd/index.pperl?date=20000707

AH! Thanks all. Especially for the pictures. So it screwed in from below. I have been doing my homework and I read somewhere that the rectangular hole was for a light switch on Euro models and never used in the U.S. Thats where my a/c wires come up. I guess now I have to decide whether to try and repair mine. I could epoxy and use the bolt as the sins and scars will be hidden by the a/c control.

I have been searching for some photos or a thread that describes the method by which the choke control is attached to the center console in the 73 z. My recent acquisition has the A/C temp control mounted next to the choke lever and the choke control is held in place by a bolt hiding under the A/C control. Its apperant that a PO drilled the hole for the choke bolt and the surroundings are cracking and falling apart. Photos I have been able to find are from above and it sure doesn't look like the mounting involves a bolt from above. There is also a square hole for something, which is where my a/c wires pass through to the control. What belongs there? The A/C control housing's ears are also cracked and falling apart. So............. How is the choke held in place in an original console and anyone know where to get (or got and willing to part with) an A/C control housing in good shape. Thanks all, I have found a whole lot of good info here, I appreciate it. Most of the things I have had questions about have been answered with use of the search button.

That depends on whether your car has inertial dampeners to survive the acceleration.

Ah! Very good information and photos! However, it still eludes me how I can get hot air at the feet of the passenger and cold at the feet of the driver. It would appear that they are two doors from the same space after the heater core. Perhaps hot water is not completely filling the heater core and one side is hot and the other not? Let me point out the passenger side is HOT and the drivers side COLD! Not like there is any mixing or lukewarmness about either side, quite extreme in the difference.

I am a relatively new 1973 240z owner. The car has the after market a/c in it. I have been very impressed with the knowledge contained in here, I have answered many questions just by reading, thanks all. However, I think there is a easy answer to this question, but what it is eludes me at this point. Had my first oppotunity to need a lil heat in the car. The heater controls did not work exactly as I expected, but that could be because of the way the a/c sits on the air input. Nonetheless, all was well, except than when dumping heat out the bottom, while the passenger seat side was toasty warm, the drivers side was nothing but cold air. I suspect some flap is not completely opening but since all this is located so deep under the dash, I was hoping the colective wisdom might point at an easy adjustment or other wisdom. Perhaps the control cable is just not properly adjusted. I also noted that the facia air vents never really stopped having air, but I would suspect that a flap originally had some foamy material to seal it when closed and that the foamy material perished long ago. Any thoughts on my cold air at my feet would be appreciated.

Me too! Thanks for posting this.

Ace is definitly the place! However I was highly dismayed, after shopping at a neighborhood Ace for 25 years, to find them gone on my last trip. The not too far away HD and Loews must have finally done them in. The spring dept at Loews did not have anything nearly appropriate, but as expected, a weedeater spring, a pliers and some spreading of the coils produced an ugly but sufficent spring load on the nylon thingee. Thanks all.

Yeah! There ya go! I need spring #21. It looks suspiciously like the spring for a weed-eater, I bet i can find something appropriate at the Home Depot. Thank you and I apologize for hijacking the thread briefly, we now return you to turn signal and combo switches. Zs-ondabrain, thanks, I will email you.

I have a 12/72 built 73 240z. It was a recent purchase in great shape, but am sorting through a few electrical problems. This thread has been interesting. The right signal is partly intermittent causing me to discover the rather interesting arrangement inside that switch. The high beam was also intermittent, but that cleaned up pretty easy with some contact cleaner and resolding. I am a lil afraid to take the turn signal switch apart as the double rocker inside looks hard to get put back together. This is my first foray into old z cars, but I am quite experienced in lbc's (lil british cars) so the Prince of Darkness (lucas) has me well used to taking apart things not really intended to be taken apart. The prices I have found for replacement turn switches are rather shocking. Any advice on obtaining a long pig tail for my 73, or the ease of reassembly of that switches internals would be appreciated. Off topic to the thread, but nearby electrically, my horn switch has nothing to pressure the switch to be normally open and I find the horn spontaneously sounding going around corners. Shouldn't there be some springs or something to pressure the switch open unless you press on the horn pad? None of the sellers out there seem to have anything on the horn switch and both Haynes and the factory manual I have downloaded are unenlightening. Any advice would be welcome. Jim Altman jaltman@altlaw.com