yoshi_w

Thanks for all the suggestions! I have some free time today to give those a whirl. Even a temp fix would be good while i decide what to do carburetor-wise, (maybe triples? )

Its been converted to a throttle cable so the only linkage left is between the carbs, I didn't feel like much play when I messed with the remaining linkage (the one attached to the throttle shafts) is there any particular way to check this? And I am slightly confused how with play in the throttle shafts the problem would only occur with the engine running? Unless I'm misunderstanding something to do with the vacuum?

Alright I'll go take a look today, should the throttle shafts be that worn am I pretty much SOL? I have some extra round tops but regardless is there anyway to remedy the problem short of replacement?

Hi, I was hoping someone could assist me with a drivability issue I've been having. When the car is off, the gas pedal is easy to depress, and entirely normal, however when the car is on, the pedal becomes difficult to press, and if i press too much it will gun it. The car in question is a 73 z, l28, flattop pistons, mild cam, roundtop su's, throttle cable conversion. Thanks for any help, I'm hoping its something dumb and simple. Also, the car is running a little rich as of the moment if that matters (needa tune the carbs)

Hi, I have a 1973 240z, rewired the car with an EZ wire harness, and I have upgraded to a 60 amp alternator from a 280zx. I've driven the car fine until I had an issue of the alternator overcharging. The original 60 amp ended up testing bad, so I replaced it, and made sure to test the new (re-manufactured ) one I got. It tested fine, but when I installed it in the car, I hooked up a multi-meter and it was going up to 15.7 even after warming the car up, and putting load on it, including lights and an electrical fuel pump. Anybody have any idea what could cause this? Such as a wire too small going into the voltage regulator, or just an alternator that instantly went bad? Or something else? Thanks for any help!

Hi, I was curious if anybody had the full dimensions for the frame rails from the front and all the way under the floor for a 240z? I want to see if I could find somebody to bend one up for me, or if just purchasing any of the online ones might be cheaper. Thanks for the help!

The drivers side does have minor rust, but my interior is entirely stripped out and the floors on the driver's side are solid except for one small patch that doesn't justify a new floor pan. The frame rail is also good on the drivers side. The passenger side looks like somebody hit something or jacked it up wrong or both, causing the protective coat to show bare metal, because the floor pan is bashed upwards, and the frame rail is bashed in the middle, both having severe rust around these sections. I'll try to take pictures tomorrow and investigate the driver's side more after work. Thanks for all the help so far!

I must admit I am a little confused. The front frame rail zedd findings sells includes part of the floor support yes? It looks like the floor supports they sell with the floor pans only includes the part that is under the floor, not the part that extends past the floor pan, if this makes sense. So given I do need the front frame rail for the passenger side and the floor pan for just the passenger side, would ordering the floors alone and front frame rails separately make sense?

Hi, so my passenger side floor pans is much worse than i originally expected, I know all about the zedd findings ones but their prices are a tad steep. I found a company on ebay that sells them for about $134+free shipping, has anyone tried these? 1970 74 Nissan Datsun Floor Pan Passenger Side | eBay I know you get what you pay for so I wanted to ask before purchasing, thanks!

That dash cap looks nice! but I personally don't like just covering up problems, I'd rather try repairing them first. Thanks though! And Leon, I will drive over there as soon as the car is back together! Mlc240z, I have yet to put the dash back in the car as I am doing a full rewire, but I had it in the sun all day yesterday when I was installing gauges and what-not and it didn't smell at all, but inside the car it could be a different story, I'll try to keep this updated! I would also recommend to sand more than I did, but hey, live and learn and its still better than before! And thanks everyone else for the words of encouragement! I am also installing new vdo gauges (tachometer, oil pressure, and water temp), as well as an afr gauge as I just rebuilt the engine and the non-working stock gauges weren't cutting it. The oil pressure wasn't installed yet, but the vdo tach looks pretty much factory, and I relocated the gas/amp gauge to the driver side air vent. Probably not to everybody's liking, but hey, I think it's not half bad!

My friend and I both own 240z's, and both of us had cracked dashes. Also, both of us hate covering up problems so a simple dash cap was not gonna do it. However, we are both lacking in high monetary compensation from our jobs so we decided to experiment and find a cheaper way to repair our dashes. This involved the use of silicone, bondo, light gorilla glue, jb kwik, and finally "Flex Seal". We began with the silicone, but quickly found out this really only works well for larger cracks, and also tends to have some small air pockets as well as it tears away from inconvenient cracks, still leaving medium to small size cracks un-repaired. To remove the excess silicone a 3" sanding pad was used on a drill for speed, but in some tight areas, such as around the three small gauges, the 3" is too big and abrasive and starts to dig into the vinyl. However, in certain areas it is necessary to sand down to the foam for a smooth finish, as when the dash splits, the two separated pieces of vinyl stick up. This then led to the use of bondo for the small cracks, which worked for the small cracks, but not the bigger cracks, as it just crumbled out. Then I used some light gorilla glue for some really small cracks, and finally, jb kwik to fix any big crack and small cracks that the previous methods did not work for. In between each method, we sanded with 60, 180, 220, then 600 grit sand paper to make the finish as smooth as possible. We were originally going to use filller primer so I decided not to worry myself, or cause more damage, by sanding some areas down more. However, while at the hardware store, I realized we can use Flex Seal, that stuff you see on TV, and although steep in pricing, $18 a can, is perfect and only one can is needed. It is flexible should the dash flex, it fills in small cracks, its meant for outdoor roof repair so it is good against the sun, and the texture is close, but not exact, to the original dash texture. It worked! However, I later realized I should have sanded down some areas a little more, but it came out with no cracks, original looking, and doesn't add any parts like a dash cap! Now, on with the pictures!

Alright, I'll see if I can locate those wires and go from there, thank you for all the help and if anything I'll post up results of all this.

Steve, I am about to go work on the z so I will definitely try that test, and Mike, that could be the issue because I cannot remember if we remembered to do that, do you by chance have a picture or way to reference which two wires go together? Sorry, my wiring is a mess.

We timed the oil pump and everything, we made sure the pistons were at tdc when we installed it, and we tried a screwdriver and turned the engine over but the spark was a little weak, we also tried turning the distributor for rough timing and nothing changed, if the coil isn't properly grounded could that be the issue?

Hi, so I just finished rebuilding the engine on my 1973 240z and it turns over, but no start. Its getting air and fuel so it seems logical the only reason its not starting is the spark. My car has an MSD blaster 2 coil and an e12-80 module. We used the multimeter and determined that both the positive and negative side on the coil are getting around 12v, is this right?? Same thing goes for the b and c on the module. I am assuming the negative is supposed to be grounded, so am I missing a connection on the wiring harness? Or is the module messed up? Thanks for the help! I have it hooked up like this diagram: