yoshi_w

Hi, so I am about to embark on an engine rebuild and am planning to get a cam regrind. I have an l28 with an n47 head and roundtop su's. I have 2 questions. 1.) I heard the e88 and e33 heads had cams that were more suited to being reground, is this true? Is the n47 cam ok to get reground? 2.) Does anybody have experience with any cam grinders in the bay area? Or if not is delta cams good? Thanks!

Hi, before I purchase some Suspension Techniques springs I just had 2 quick questions, although I haven't seen any bad reviews, what are people's experiences with these? And my primary question is most state these are linear which I want, but I came across a mention that the newer ones are progressive? Is this true or just misinformation? Thanks!

Hi, so this may be in the wrong forum so I apologize, but at the moment this seems the most logical place. I am in the middle of collecting all the parts for a swap to a manual transmission and need the pedal box, with the clutch pedal and brake! It will be for a 1973 240z. Does anybody have a manual pedal box that they are willing to part with for a reasonable price? I have looked at ebay but there's only one being bid on and I'll be at work when the auction ends so i doubt my chances :/ Anyone's help is greatly appreciated, thank you!

Ok, sounds good, well I just got the rebuild kits for the wheel cylinders, so brake rebuild next week for sure. My handbrake doesnt work so maybe this will be the time to figure out why!

drum brakes*

ok for sure it doesn't sound too daunting! should I rebuild the dry brakes too? or do you think I can re-use the old springs?

Yea I haven't even touched the brakes since I have owned the car so I guess I'll look into rebuilding the rear wheel cylinders, how can I tell if they are in good working order though? And that order for bleeding the brakes is what I was thinking so that helps a lot thanks! And am I assuming correctly to bench bleed the master cylinder before putting it on and flushing out the old fluid? I have 3 quarts of brake fluid at the moment, should I get another bottle? And Leon, I have a feeling I may need to hit you up but I want to see if I can do this on my own first! I was gonna try doing the brakes tomorrow but the wheel cylinder suggestion may make me wait until next week, but I would rather be safe than sorry. Thank you all for the help so far!

Hi, I have a 1973 240z and I am about to try tackling the brakes on my own. I have new brake lines, new calipers, and a new master cylinder, but I don't know what to do first. Should I completely drain the system of the old brake fluid first, then do the brake lines? I will bench-bleed the master cylinder first and then hook it up but I didn't know if its a bad idea to completely drain all the lines first? and do I bleed the rear then the front or what order? Thanks!

Leon, that would be massively helpful! I'm on spring break this week, so if you are available any time this week I would greatly appreciate it!

So I am in a bit of a trouble spot. I am getting kicked out of the garage I have been working in by March 31st, but the car is not running, I need to look for another garage, but I need to find one that lets me work on the car as I'll probably have to bring over on a tow truck, otherwise I could just have a shop finish what I've started. It has been slow working on the carb swap due to missing some stuff and having midterms and lots of studying. I have the carbs and the linkages on but noticed in pictures that I need a spring hooked onto what looks like a heat shield? Is this vital, and Leon, do you possibly have this part? Or alternatively, where could I get this? Or is there anything I can salvage from the flattop carbs? Thanks for all the help!

Alright, I shall try this on the next sunny day! Thanks all for the help, can't wait to get the z running again finally, and yup leon, I shall definitely ask you for help, took me way too long to finally muster up the courage to change the carbs hahah. Hopefully all these suggestions work out, otherwise I'll be back on here . Thanks again everyone!

My car is a 1973, and I haven't checked the float levels yet, but I'll be sure to do that. I appreciate all the help you guys have provided! And as for starting the car, are you saying I give the carb fuel, then hook up the fuel lines? And also, do I need those emissions devices? because Im trying to keep everything as simple as possible, thanks!

I managed to work on the car and bolted up the intake manifold that came with the roundtops since it has the longer studs. I also managed to get some pictures of the hoses which I am attaching to this, the numbers correspond to show what they are attached to. Also, after everything is hooked up, is there any specific starting procedure? or should I crank it over until it starts? Thanks for all the help again!

You guys are both amazing help, especially captain obvious hahah. You seriously are not only helping me work on my car, but its also motivation at the same time, cause when you don't know what to do you just lose the spark to work on the car. Its also amazing how you labelled the function of each hose, very helpful and its nice to look in the engine bay and know what everything is there for. Thank you soo much I cannot express in words how helpful this is! Ill try to nab a shot of the unidentified hoses by tomorrow. Thanks again!

I searched the forums but couldn't find anything, as for being in the carb section, I didn't realize there was one sorry. Any help is appreciated, the flattops were poorly installed so I am almost positive there are extra hoses than on a normal flattop to roundtop conversion. It is a 240z that has an l28 with flattops which I am now converting to roundtops so its technically gone through two intake systems before this (fuel injected and flattops).

Hi, so I am in the process of converting my car from flattop to roundtop carbs. I have the intake manifold, balance tube, and carbs for both setups. The engine is an L28 that came with flattop carbs on it and a mess of hoses and wires. I need help identifying hoses and figuring out what I don't need, etc. I have removed the flattops and their balance tube, then bolted on the balance tube for the roundtops to notice that there's no spots for some of the hoses that are there. I have pictures attached. The next thing I noticed is the roundtops won't fit on the manifold and need the larger bolts of the manifold that came with them, so does this mean they won't work on the n33 manifold? Next, there's no spot for the coolant hose, does this mean the roundtops don't need coolant, and if so, how would I remove this hose and block it? As you can tell I am pretty clueless but thanks for all the help!

Got the starter working, and the car is running again! Thanks everyone for your help! 5thhorsemann, I'll try doing that as that seems much more correct than what the previous owner decided to do! Thanks

I replaced the positive cable, and the battery post clamp on the negative cable. I'll just move where the negative cable goes. I'll try the wire test hopefully today or tomorrow. 5thhorsemann, you mentioned a body ground strap? I was wondering if this is attached to the negative cable, if it attaches separately, and where on the body do you connect it? Thanks!

Hi, so I worked on the car a little and took the starter off and had it tested. The starter is fine and in working condition. I also replaced the cables, but I still only hear one click when I turn the ignition key, and nothing else. Any ideas?? I am also attaching pictures of the bolt that attaches to the engine on the negative cable's ground for 5thhorsemann. Thanks for everything so far, but please help, I appreciate it!

Ok,so I did something really dumb. In an attempt to get the nut off, I absentmindedly in a moment of frustration forgot to disconnect the battery cables, and the solenoid sparked. Is it likely this damaged the starter? As for the cable, there definitely is a nut there attaching it to where the red circle in the picture shows. I also looked up solenoids and there are solenoids sold separately, so I am assuming I can replace just that part, but is it more logical just to replace the whole starter? On the wire test, the spade connector is where the starter wire attaches, correct? Thank you for all the help so far, I'm getting super frustrated with this problem, and your help is keeping me sane!

The solenoid post isn't spinning, just the nut that holds on the positive cable won't unscrew. As for the negative cable, it is bolted in where it is shown in the picture. And for the ground on the body, where on the body is easiest to attach it? The starter, I tried with the headlights on, and the headlights slightly dimmed, this means its a problem with the starter and not the ignition wiring, correct? And how can I tell if its the starter or the starter solenoid that's bad? Thanks!

I haven't tried the wire test yet, but I bought new battery cables and I now have a problem and a question. First, the problem is on the ppositive cable, for some reason I cant get off the nut that attaches the positive cable to the solenoid, it just spins and doesn't come off so maybe its stripped, how can I get it off? The other question I have is about the negative cable. It has a smaller wire attached to the rocker valve cover, and the thick cable isnt attached to the base of the starter, but to a bracket thats at the front of the engine near the rocker valve cover. Is it supposed to be attached like this? Because the new cable doesn't come with a smaller wire capable of being attached to the rocker valve cover. Thanks!

Alright, I need to get new battery cables anyway, and I'll try the test asap, can I just use any kind of wire? Thanks!

I changed the battery, the lights go on now, but when I try to start it, it only clicks once which is like the starter is dead, but I just replaced it with a re-manufactured gear-reduction starter, any ideas? could this still be the fusible link? Or do I need to get the starter tested (which I really do not want to remove since I had to do it from the top which was a pain)? I will get the starter checked if I have to though, thanks!

Sorry, I have a 1973 240z, l28, re-manufactured gear reduction starter, and a slightly used msd blaster 2 coil. I'll definitely try the headlights an horns. As for the bench test, I will do that if the lights, etc. do work. Thanks for your help!