yoshi_w

Hi, so I have a question regarding a new fuel filter. When I bought my car it came with an l28 but retained the flattop carbs from the 1973 year my car was made (1973 240z). Which fuel filter will it need? I've read that a 280z would use the fram g3359, but since mine retained the carbs, is it more probable that the original type fuel filter was retained and I should get the fram g4143? thanks!

so I still need a reproduction outer one then. will a kia sportage hatch weatherstrip work for the inner hatch of the 240z? or if I get the door weatherstrips from a sportage will just one suffice for the whole inner hatch strip? thanks for all the help!

I was just gonna order the mcmaster-carr for the doors and just need the hatch weatherstrip, because I need to save money where I can as a college student, plus I don't need all the parts that come wit the Precision kit. Thanks for the suggestion though! so for the kia door weatherstrip on the hatch solution, does that only work for the inner or outer weatherstrip on the hatch?

I had this happen to me at a gas station. Not fun and I thought it was the gas tank too. It turned out to just be the fuel line so I would check that first if I were you.

msa sounds like the best option, but if its back-ordered thats a dissapointment. can anyone confirm this? thanks for the help!

Hi, I used the search function and when I looked at options for the hatch weatherstripping, there weren't a lot of options. From what I see there is the Victoria British, MSA, Black Dragon, or Kia sportage among other cars. I was curious if anyone knows weather anything from McMaster-Carr or other universal weatherstripping manufacturers will work and what's the part #? its for a 1973 240z btw. Thanks for any help!

I was curious if anyone has tried putting porsche 914 seats into their 240z, and if they had any difficulty? thanks!

Ill try to take a photo during the daytime, but i dont have a better camera, sorry. as for the spray can, its entirely possible. if so,what steps after the 1000 grit?

Ill try that, would I be able to just purchase this stuff at kragens or something? and sadly, some paint has chipped off in areas so it will definitely need a repaint in the future, thanks for ll the advice so far!

I just took a pic, it was a little dark out, but the paint in the pic is essentially what it looks like over the entire car.

The previous owner repainted so I honestly dont know if it went to bare metal. some paint did chip off and it looked like it was metal and not another layer of paint, but still hard to tell. as for thickness, it does look a little thin, but I cant tell if there is or is not clearcoat. Ill take a closer look tomorrow or the day after and put up some pics. Thanks for the help so far!

How do you tell how thin the paint is? Also I'm almost positive the paints not original. I don't kno what kind of paint however, is there a way of telling? It doesn't look like its peeling or have orange peal or anything, its just really dull and doesn't reflect light much at all. I'd be happy with jus some reflection in the paint, not looking for showroom or anything like that, just something more presentable looking if that makes sense? Thanks!

Hi, I recently bought a 240z and the paint on it is really dull. it hardly shimmers at all. It could either be old paint or a bad paint job. Is there any way to refresh the paint, at least until I have cash to repaint it? thanks! If it matters, it is a darkish maroon color.

I'll be sure to take a look at all of these, thank you all for the help!

ok, ill be sure to check all of these asap! hopefully i can get access to a jack sometime today. thanks for the help! how would I check the u-joints? would just seeing if it moves with a little shake suffice? and hopefully as cash is saved i'll replace all the bushings in my car!

would it just randomly start clunking though? it didn't do that when I bought it..

thanks for all the suggestions! it only happens when im off the gas though, would that really be because of bolts? and for pormorza, at the moment the cars automatic, but even still, its only when I let off of the gas pedal does it clunk.

hi! I recently changed out the shocks on my car and everything has been going good, until i heard clunking. I checked where the axle is attached to the hub and the bolts were coming loose so I tightened them all up. I then drove around but its still clunking, noticeably. its clunking in the left rear only, and it only clunks when I let my foot off the gas. Any ideas why this is happening? are the problems related, or am I missing something? all help is appreciated!

o ok, sounds good, thanks!

Oh ok, that sounds good! Would I have to remove the black paint from the seat frame first before bringing it in for welding? thanks!

O ok, thanks! I will definitely do that then. You kno about what the cost might be? Its all good if you don't, I really appreciate the help!

Im on a super tight budget so I think im gonna have to stick with the seat i have. I took a closer inspection today and it turns out that the bottom part of the seat frame is snapped on one side. Would jb weld work to fix it? thanks for the help and advice!

Hi, the driver's seat in my 1973 240z is broken. The back is still attached to the seat bottom, but it does not stay upright, so in other words its not locking in place. I don't want to buy a new seat as I don't have the cash, so what could be the problem, and is it easily fixable? I was thinking it could be the hinges attaching the back, but all i can find is hinges for a 280zx seat. Any help is appreciated!

I'm pretty sure the oil is coming fom the rocker cover, but I'll double check later today, sounds like an easy fix. But I was looking at replacement gaskets and it seems like what year z the engine is from matters, and I don't know what year z the l28 in my car came from?? How can I tell to get the correct year?? I'll be sure to check the wires and compression for sure. As for the manual, I just downloaded an online one as I am really short on cash, but I am definitely finding it helpful already thanks!

I just checked the engine and adjusted the idle screw, and now it runs smooth and everything, but still feels really underpowered . Btw, is it the round top carbs that have the idle screw on top of the linkage and carbs (if that makes sense)? i noted that theres some oil around the whole head of the engine though... is that just age or leaky headgasket? and would this cause me to lose compression? thanks for all the help so far!