yoshi_w

The FSM I have is copyright 1974 for the 1975 280z, and recommends b6es spark plugs. Next time I change plugs I'll get the bp6es. As for the choke, it is sticking off, so full forward, causing difficult starting but no other troubles than that, thanks! And I'll try the procedure to read the plugs since the ones I just put in are brand new and I haven't driven the car yet. Thanks for the help!

I just got b6es-11 as specified in the fsm (i have a pdf of one, for the 240z, l24, and 280z). I think that means no projected tip, but the engine ran better than with the autolights! So get the haynes or no??

Hi again, so I tried to take a more in depth look and I think I pinpointed the smoke problem. It seems like oil from the rear carb, the one closest to the windshield, is leaking oil onto the exhaust. I attached a picture of a flattop carb (not my carb) with circles around where I felt the oil. Any idea how to fix this?

To be honest, I've been kind of scared to start it again but if the fuel dropping back is the most likely culprit to the slow start, I'll try again tomorrow! And it looks like I'll be getting the haynes manual. Thanks so much everyone!

I did gap the plugs with a proper gapping tool, and I do have ngks in it now. The previous owner put in the autolites.Thanks though for the suggestion! And what does draining the fuel back do? So overall consensus is its looking good? That will be some of the best news on this car so far!

I'll try to take a few more close up pictures later today. As for work I have done so far, I have changed the air filter and fuel filter too. The car has always been a little difficult to start since the choke is jammed at the moment (next on my to do list). However, after changing the plugs the starter went for a while then just stopped going. I was about to give up, but I tried one more time and it started right up.

I just changed my spark plugs yesterday and I have 2 questions. First is that it took longer than usual to start up, is that normal with new spark plugs? And secondly, I took pictures of the plugs that came with the car when I bought it, can anyone tell me whether it looks as if my engine is running well or not? Thanks!

Thanks for the info! I just ordered afire extinguisher so i'll soon do the test to see where the smoke comes from, I really am hoping it is just a little oil, let you all know!

scaring me a little bit, but I'll be sure to get a fire extinguisher, hope they aren't too pricey. thank you for all the help and I'll let you know what happens!

I'm just a little worried about keeping the car running with it smoking, so I shouldn't be too worried if theres no wires there?

I'm not gonna lie, it is pretty grimy, haven't gotten to cleaning it yet, I'm just trying to get it running reliably first. and from what I've noticed it has only smoked once or twice, but the smoke was thin enough that I'm sure I wouldn't have noticed it with the hood closed

i dont think it would as I haven't changed the oil recently, unless its leaking from the cork rocker gasket?

I didn't realize you could physically see the smoke from the exhaust, makes sense though if you're right, thanks!

Car: 1973 240z, l28, 280zx dizzy, 1973 flattop carbs. Hi, so I thought I was getting back on track with getting the car all fixed up, I changed the air filter and just changed the in-bay fuel filter. After replacing the fuel filter, I started up the car and it was idling a little better, but then I began to notice smoke coming from in between the carbs and engine, around where the exhaust manifold is. I couldn't pinpoint the location, what could be the cause? Sidenotes: it takes a while for the car to start up, a very long time, even with new fuel filter, choke doesn't work, if this could be connected to problem.

1973 240z, l28, flattop carbs, 280zx electronic ignition, so, so far I'm not missing anything important? Thank you all! The dark wire I'm pretty sure is what Gary said, a ground. The other wire near the fan is red and white, but its hard to tell with all the grime, so is this just unnecessary wires left over from removal of the points dizzy? and I don't need the smog bracket then?

Rarely, but yes, on occasion it decides to work, but not at the same time as the oil gauge.

So as I was examining my distributor, I began to notice various wires that had nothing connected to them, and some threaded holes in the engine block with nothing attached, am I missing important parts?? Thank you!

Already replaced the air filter, just bought a new fuel filter, need a fuel filter for the pump, have the electronic ignition conversion to replace the points, oil was brand new when I bought the car, needs new plugs though, have a carb rebuild kit, just a matter of putting them on. I wanted to save the z from the previous owner who really took poor care of the car, so wish me luck, timing and fuel filter are going to go in within this week or next depending on classes!

I have the l28 and 240z fsm in pdf form already, so I'll be sure to check that. As for adjusting the points, I have a electronic conversion, so Ill probably adjust the timing until I am able to install it. If timing turns out to be the problem, you guys are truly my heroes!

I like to get my hands dirty, no worries about that! But I'll try that and let you know how it works out. thanks! And I forgot to mention this until Koalia mentioned the air filter, not the same thing as his, but I removed the old air filter that the previous owner had in it, and it was the filter in metal cage type thing, it was covered in a very oily substance and even had some gunk just melted onto one part, is this an indication of something?

Thank you so much everybody! I'll try all of those tomorrow if I have time after classes! This is definitely something I need to fix asap. Diseazed, how will I know if I loosened it too much or too little on the distributor, or is it something that I will just be able to tell? And, I really doubt its the flattops, and I plan to keep those, but I already have a rebuild kit so that may be the next thing if the timing doesn't work. If the timing is off, this could cause the engine to overheat, correct? And if there is carbon build-up, what ways can I clean it up without a full engine rebuild?

Thanks guys for all the help so far! and I am pretty sure it kept the flattops due to the carbs being the stock intake setup. I would like to replace them eventually, but I doubt thats the problem, beyond the butterfly valve not closing all the way. I will try to adjust the timing as soon as I can get a hold of a timing gun. New development though, as I was driving today the engine just started to cut out and when the engine did cut back in, there was no power at all. Are these two problems related, like would this new problem also be caused by bad timing? Thank you everyone so much so far!

Hi, so sometimes when I turn off the engine in my 1973 240z, it rattles and hisses for a few seconds after I remove the key and all around doesn't sound good. It doesn't do it all the time, but its starting to worry me. Does anybody know whats wrong? Thanks! Oh, and its a 1973 240z runnning an l28 with flattop carbs.

Oh ok. I'll do that as soon as I can. Thanks for all the help!

From what I understand the fuel filter in the engine bay will be the g4143 meant for the 240z, correct? and as for the fuel pump, I thought the 240z came with a mechanical fuel pump? or would that have been switched during the l28 swap? sorry for all the questions, just haven't been able to get that in depth with the car yet. Thank you!