Z_Chaz

I got mine from Victoria British. Came with instructions on how to adjust push rod to master (I used plumbers putty, worked great). Also, if your master is older than 5 years, might as well replace/rebuild while your at it. It's off during the procedures anyway. Be prepared to send in your core. Clean it up before! (Don't worry about any rust, rebuilder dips/blast units before rebuilding them.) It came raw metal so you will want to paint it with quality paint to keep it looking right (not rusting to ugly real fast). I used high temp enamel. Reason is the metal on the rebuilt units is rough (but clean) and high temp is more fluid (thiner) and flows better to get into the "pors" of the rough metal. Take your time and give it several coats. You will not want to take it off later to repaint. Be advised, as with many parts on the Z's, they are year specific, i.e. you must match the vac unit to the master cylinder. The obvious difference is the length of the rod from the vac unit to the master cylinder. My new vac unit came with a longer rod than the old one but I replaced the master cylinder when I replaced the vac unit and they matched up so I got lucky. Remember, time is money. Not taking your time and doing it right the first time is more time and more money (and on brakes: maybe worse).

Excellent article. It would be a great service to all members to read more on the subject. I for one, wouldn't want to experiment on my original clock. It's in my 1/70 build date 240Z and amazingly still works. But sooner or later it will need servicing. Thanks much.

If you don't already have a copy of the General Competition Rules (GCR) and car sections (category and classes), it can be downloaded in PDF format at the SCCA site: http://www.scca.org In the list on the left of the home page, go to "Club Racing" then "Cars and Rules". If you download the entire book, the categories are included.

Case of the "Factory miss-mark" (Natashia smacks Boris) or "This sticker fits anything". To be continued. Hey Rocky, Watch me pull a rabbit outa my hat. All jokes aside, Will and Carl are right on. The mounting bracket for the Z correct unit comes up off the duel tips stacked vertically vs horizontally (as in this example). Thanks again guys for your experienced observation.

Do a search for "combination switch". A lot of good info.

JK, Welcome to the best Z site anywhere (IMHO). Get the CD containing the microfiche (on this site) and start exploring. I can't think of a better, more comprehensive listing of dated changes to the Z. Good luck and enjoy!

Gees, just look at his feedback, says it all.

Chris, You may find this ebay item interesting, if it's authentic: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=378&item=4515211617&rd=1

If I weren't so far from it, it would already be gone. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6783&item=7933827512&rd=1

Loaded S12-8 Toyota calipers on ebay, thought someone might be looking for some. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7930751518&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT Just bought mine at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $100 for the pair, loaded (plus cores if I hadn't had some which I did).

Drove across the Missery state line yesterday to pick up a motor. Paid $1.81 for unlead and bought two cases of beer saving $5+ on the two. All within 50 minutes of home. Gas here is (and has been for a week) $2 and up for unlead. Bible belters like to tax hell out of each other to have nice roads and no drinking (KS taxes beer 3 times before you saddle up to the bar). I must say, we have nice roads and the contractors that built them and their politician friends live in lovely homes. Kansas is pro people and pro business, IF you can afford it.

Post #2 is right procedure after MC loses air lock. The two bleeders on the side of the MC will help get the juices flowing. At least it did for me when I encountered this situation.

Pros, Cons and other good stuff: http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performance/brakelines.htm

One site for speedbleeders: http://www.speedbleeder.com/ Re master cylinder, did you bleed the MC first?

Thanks Carl, and you're right. Had the pedal arm issue covered. Lots of machine/welding shops in farmland (not to mention gearheads with too much ambition and shop goodies) so that issue was easy. When at British Vic's city counter yestarday, I was suprised that the very nice guy there only shruged and said "gees, iduno" when I inquired if he might have any suggestions. I am amazed that both clevis yokes are in such great condition considering the wear on the pins. BTW, the wear on the pins are limited to the contact points with the pedal arms. They must be exta hard.