Snakeyes711

Sry I so wish I had taken an after pic, as it looked like new in there.

My problem is solved. What I did to fix it is. Take off the fuel tank,a nd use a gallon of muratic acid to take the surface rust, and the spray lining that had been applied. The majority of the problem was the lining. It was brittle, and coming off in chunks looks like it didn't take too well on the inside. The muratic acid ate that stuff right up. Be very careful if you used that stuff, as its 35% hydrochloric acid. I used a 3M respirator, and rubber gloves while handling it. A few times I dropped it on the concrete, and it immediately started smoking, and bubbling so its pretty damn strong. Not to mention it cleaned off rust in minutes. I let it sit for a few hours to dissolve the lining then pressure washed it, and flushed it out with water. And did it again. Lather rinse repeat! This is what I saw when I first looked into the tank.

Pick up coils are good, I've exhausted my ideas. Now I can't even get it to rev sitting still.

Napa pump has 13.5V, delivers it says 95PSI. No carbs EFI The tank was etched and sent off to be sealed. I'm suspecting the air meter, it will idle, but now dies when you push the gas at all, it will rev a bit when you finger the air meter. I recently took the injectors off, and cleaned the screens on the tops, and added a new fuel filter too. Plugs are bone white. it won't even rev if you adjust the air meter spring either way. I found that the air intake temp sensor reads too low in ohms at 75*F its at about 1500 ohms give or take, the website said 68*C should be around 2500ohms, its reading way off I guess. So I'm going to try a new air meter.

Thanks Alhbln, I did get the distributor correct, and the wires right. She revs good, sounds nice. Pull out the driveway good power second gear good power, nice N stiff shift, then a few seconds later it falls on its face, and I have to limp home. Fuel pump has 13.5V I haven't checked the pressure, but the pump is a new Napa pump, and is working good. I've even tried pinching the fuel return hose off, and that doesn't seem to help. When it cuts off, and you run the pump it'll crank, and run good for a few seconds, then the same thing.

You got it Mike!

My sons car clicks sometimes when trying to start it. I've had to bump it a few times, for the solenoid to kick over on the starter. Does it click?

I plugged the line when I took it off, so it wasn't sucking in unmetered air. I put a new wireset on it, and its got new plugs, same thing. IT revs nice, pull out the drive way its got good power, second gear good, and stiff, few seconds later, it hits a brick wall. When I got back home the plugs were sooty...I'm clueless? Edit: I can't post for some reason, it says (Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired. Please reload the window.)

Pick up coils tested Adv. 750, Ret. 770. Is that good? Or is that in need of replace? That was tested under the pass. dash. EDIT: new plug wires, and plugs, idles nice, pull out the driveway has good power second gear nice and stiff, few seconds later, it hits a brick wall, and I have to limp back to the house. Plugs were sooty....I'm lost?...At a good note, the I got the tach working! Nice! Can anyone direct me without searching the wiring diagram for the tach signal to the ecu?

HAA! Sry for adding all the confusion. I flipped the Dizzy shaft, and redid the wires, it started up, just runs terrible. Worse with the vacuum advance not attached. Its missing, and running ruff something awful. My dad said it had a new wireset, then today I asked him when were they put on. 3 years ago! So they aren't new more like 3yrs old new. I seen lots of arcing on the engine last night, from the coil, to the wires arcing on the engine. So I'm going to try a new wire set and dizzy cap. It could be the pick up coils are bad, I'll try to find in the FSM how to check them. If they are they're like 95 dollars at the cheapest! might as well get the whole dizzy. Hey! at least it runs! It did start thanks to the info here, and mikes help! I'll keep at it.

I got the distributor swapped around, and the wires right, and it fired up. Runs but runs bad. I'm pretty sure the wires are gone last night I could see some of them arcing off on the engine. Si I'm going to try a wire set, and a new dist. cap. And fill it up with fresh 93 with some inj. cleaner, and seafoam,a nd run that out see how it does.

As easy as it was to swap the Dizzys rotor shaft, I just did it anyway. Tomorrow I'll swap the wires around where they are supposed to go. I also found that the rubbing thing (don't know exact name) inside the dist. wasn't rubbing, and the air gap was just enough it didn't rub. So I'll try again tomorrow with it, and BTW...sry OP, for thread jacking...I got the same problem too, maybe we can put our heads together, and figure both our problems out. Oh, Sry mike BTW no this is a 76 280.

New coolant temp sensor, new fuel pump, still bypassed thermo switch. I hear its ok for it to run like that. The thing is, it doesn't run . I found out the Distributor is 180* wrong, I turned the shaft around in it to be correct, and am going to swap around all the wires tomorrow. Now the car won't even start....Black plugs, popping exhaust is about it.. I set the air gaps again, and the rubbing thing (inside dist) wasn't rubbing, I don't know if that would make it spark weak or what. at least he got a new fuel pump, and a coil out of the deal... Try again tomorrow.

yeah, I'm working on that now. If it doesn't matter, I may leave it. I just can't figure out why everything is where its supposed to be, but the car won't start. I'm getting a blue arc at the plug. It does look a little faint, but its blue, and it'll arc about 3/4". Can you buy new points for these, or you gotta get the whole dizzy? It was running earlier, it'll idle, and as soon as you get on the gas, it just falls on its face. The plugs are black too. Its got a new ig. coil. plugs were put in last night. I hate to just start throwing parts at it ya know?

...did you see the pics I loaded? thats how I have the wires ran, and it won't start...I had it running earlier....I'm at a loss now...

BTW, the Thermo time switch has been bypassed, wires looped back together. Is this why the car stumbles, and bogs as soon as you get on the gas? Wait? going clockwise? The wires are placed counter clockwise. Looking at the engine from the Drivers side? Thanks for your help BTW.

Here are some pics of how its set, is this correct?

Does anyone have pictures of what its supposed to look like? I set this car on TDC, and the Dizzy rotor is pointing toward the fire wall. Plus which point to start the wires from? My FSM really doesn't show where to start. When I started looking at the ignition, the #1 cyl was in the #6 cyl. According to how this car is timed the rear most cyl is #1 as the rotor at TDC points to it. make sense? I'm going to take pictures.

Thanks, I did do some searching before I posted. I only got one hit with everything I put in. Maybe I can give him a call if I can't figure this thing out. He(son) has 250 dollars saved so thats what I'm working with right now to fix it.

Thanks! Yeah I couldn't believe it? heres the thing, with the wiring like that, and it bogging, it still ran for at least ten minutes without a problem on the road...?

My son got a 76 280z for his 16th birthday, (lucky bastad!) Given to him by the original owner, my mom! Its got 86K original miles. But it needs work. So far whats been done before we got it is, new inj. fuel tank flushed etched,a nd sealed. fuel pump, rebuilt transmission. What we did is, new plugs, new ignition coil(still the factory!) replaced fuel pump, adjusted the TPS(thanks to a site flowing with info), cleaned lots of contacts under the hood. Drained about a quarter tank ,a nd filled a half tank of fresh 93. The problem started when I drove it to the store about a mile from here to put the fuel in, I put about 5 gal. of 93 in, and took a ten minute drive in it, after a few minutes it started bogging if you pressed the gas peddle. Then I couldn't give it any gas at all or it would just fall on its face. I loped it back home luckily. It starts, and idles fine, revs fine, if you take it up the street, by the time you get in third gear its bogging, and popping out the intake. If its cool it will run a little longer, not more then a few seconds. I pulled a plug earlier today, (new plugs) it was sooted black. I adjusted the distributor air gap, and with the car started I pulled a plug wire off, with the old plug attached, it had a arc jump of about a 1/2" or so blue arc, looked strong, with that distinct snap sound you could hear. I also measured the coolant temp sensor and got infinity reading. Also when I started searching the area I found the bullet connectors for two different sensors had been looped, or bypassed. One had red tape identifying it being the coolant temp sensor. the other was the thermo time? When probing both these sensors I read infinity. Also the thermo time wires are (looped) if I unconnected them the car won't start at all. One other note, if the car idles a few minute the problem goes a way for a few minutes, like the longer you wait the more the problem goes? Could that be the fuel pressure regulator?