anthony_c

35 views and no replies. ohhh, this doesn't look promising.

i am in need of an a/c pressure switch for my 74 with factory air. If you have happen to have or know of a 74 parts car hanging about, it looks like an aluminum cylinder, approx 1" in diameter and 1" long, with a two-wire pigtail attached to it. The switch threads into the top of the receiver/drier which is located aft of the voltage regulator and shunt. the one in the photo is missing its wires. thanks for your help, tony

while i wait for UPS, do either of you know what the ports on top of the charcoal cannister are supposed to connect to? i figured out the one labeled Fuel Tank, but the remaining three are less obvious.

and now it is mine, and probably the best 56 dollars and 34 cents i've spent in a long time. lets just hope i can read this one. thanks for tip carl.

Thanks for the offer Leon, but I'm probably going to need most, if not all it.

Anyone out there have a good copy of the "Section EF, Fuel System" of the 260z FSM? I need to sort out all of fuel, vacuum, and emissions lines, and the pdf on xenon is too blurry to be usable.

i tested that theory once several years ago. ended up married. how is bloomington fairing these days?

well that's an interesting thought beerman. i've not heard that one before, but it sounds plausible. it was billowing quite badly before the rebuild.

machine work was done by a local machine shop, and i'm almost certain cylinders were honed match the rings. assembly was done in a home garage. pistons (ITB?), rings, etc were ordered from Arizona ZCar as a complete kit. final warm valve adjustment has not been done yet. i've been sorting out other issues and havent been able to get the car on the road long enough to fully break in the engine. but the initial signs are a little disconcerting. the smoke doesn't occur when the engine first starts and then clear up like is typical with worn valve guide seals. instead makes a small blue cloud behind the garage when i goose the throttle up to 2 or 3k. factor in the low-ish compression numbers, and things don't "look right". other than that it fires and runs easily. i dont expect a diagnosis, but some guidance whether this is all normal for a motor with approx 70 miles on it.

less than 100 miles since it was put back together, and still smoking.

dry. and we only pulled one spark plug at a time.

are these compression numbers good/normal/acceptable for a freshly rebuilt motor? n42 block - resurfaced and bored .020 n47 head - resurfaced and valve job new pistons, rings, etc, but otherwise a stock build cyl 1 170 2 165 3 160 4 155 5 155 6 170 test was done on a cold engine. thanks, tony

the car is an early 260z. i dont have a set of calipers, but it looks like the supply and return lines are both 5/16.

pausing a moment to verify my connections are correct there are three fuel lines running along the frame. 1 leads to the canister (easy enough), the other two leading to the carbs. which of those two fuel lines is supposed to be supply, and which is supposed to be return? and why are the hard lines running along the frame 5/16", while the lines running to the carbs are 1/4"??!! thanks, tony

the "what" is an n42 block, n47 head, and a 5 speed. but i'm trying to sort out issues with a new clutch. so the question of the day is "which". 2+2, or coupe? not sure if "when" is a factor.

so there's no way of telling one from the other without pulling the transmission? crap.

previous owner dropped a 2.8L and 5 speed into my 260. is there any way to determine whether these were pulled from a 2+2 or a coupe?

the fsm is a little vague on this topic, but just to confirm, - the black nozzle threaded into the center of balance tube (below the egr valve) is the pcv valve - the 1" diameter pipe sticking out of the block (below the #1 exhaust) is the crankcase vent tube. - the pcv hose is n.l.a. for the 260 is that correct?

i saw the small nipple on the base you mentioned, seems like the obvious way to go. and yes, there appears to be an aluminum adapter plate between the air cleaner base and the carbs. thanks all. now time to sort out the open ports on the balance tube and find a way to make the egr valve just go away.

@tlorber: the fsm doesnt show any connections on the back of the cleaner fitting that description , but i do have open ports on the canister. should the lines be connected there instead? @chas: yes it does still have the canister, but its not required for inspection here. i've confirmed that the t connector in the photo is running off to the distributor. thanks for the suggestion lead on the other end.

well when you put it that way, they do seem kinda relevant.

my 260 came with an n42 block, n47 head, aftermarket headers, 4-screw roundtops, n36 intake and balancing tube, and i think the air cleaner box is from a 260. the air pump has been removed, the water inlets are not connected, egr solenoid is gone. and near as i can tell, the check valve and opener control valve are gone too. most of the plumbing has been lost/cut/removed and is no longer needed, so there is a collection of open ports on the back of my air cleaner. but there is a nipple extending from the top of the float bowls. should these be connected to something?

Steve, this process never really ends, does it? i started several weeks ago with turn signals, gauges, and few other items that weren't working and chased that goose for a week until i found the short. i was still left with a 1.25 volt drop at the fuse so i sanded and cleaned every terminal i could find in the path, had the alternator tested twice, replaced the voltage regulator just in case, and cut and re-terminated all of my ground wires for good measure. i wouldn't call the situation fully resolved yet, but with a full charge on the battery i can just barely hit 12v at the fuse again. Close enough. while working on the original issue i found a broken lead on the reverse light switch, another broken lead on the a/c pressure switch, and several issues with the a/c relay wiring. re-work of the relay is in progress, but its not looking good for the pressure switch. oem and aftermarket switches are n/a, and the wire was broken right at the switch itself so i don't think there's any hope for repairing it. 4Seasons makes a new receiver (part number 33286) that looks like a drop in replacement, unfortunately, no one seems to have a pressure switch for that one either. at this rate the car wont be ready 'til late fall, so one could argue that i have another year before i need to worry about the a/c. the other immediate concern is the issue of the little green and blue wire in the steering column. the front, rear, and side marker bulb sockets were all reasonably free of corrosion, but the connectors behind them are all pretty crusty. with all of the aforementioned bulbs out of their sockets i measured a 1.25v drop between the connector under the passenger seat and the right rear side marker. after a light sanding and cleaning the voltage increased 0.5v. Repeat that process for every spade, bullet, and pin and just pulling new wires sounds like a reasonable option. As Jeremy Clarkson would say, "what could possibly go wrong?".

pardon me as i drag you through auto electrics 101... if i am reading your instructions and the diagram correctly, it dont *think* i need terminal 87a included on an spdt relay. would a spst similar to this work as well, or am i overlooking something? on a vaguely related note, i read your article and the paragraph on parking lights describes my task perfectly. while fumbling through the harness i noticed that GB wire leading up the combination switch was damned hot after only a few minutes of use. fwiw it cooled down significantly after spreading the wires out to let some air flow in.

two blue wires? by any chance are you looking at "RELAY - POWER" instead of "RELAY - COMPRESSOR"?