5150 will

Hey James, If the nut holding the strut in the tube is loose, you should be able to jack up the car and reach in there with a large set of channel locks to snug it up. Just to see if that's your issue.....?

Any chance you have a fuse box / ashtray cover for a '71 240? I know you said you were shy on 240 parts, but I thought I'd ask. Thx, Will

Many thanks to all who helped me out on this AND the Search function. The Winner is.............Nigel. The Reaction Disc had fallen out from behind the booster rod. I think I know why they call it a reaction disc. I got every kind of reaction you could imagine when everything I tried for a week plus didn't work:mad:. I may have even made up a few new words that probably aren't suitable for this forum. Anyway, BIG THANKS again and you guys rock! Will

Bruce, yes there is one wire that attaches to the top of mine.

I think I'm getting closer. I got all the guts of the proportioning valve out and discovered a bunch more crap in there and the shaft inside was stuck pretty good. For those that don't know, inside, on each end behind the main caps and springs there are a couple cone looking separators that look like the end of a fuel injector with a needle size hole in them. In between these is a barbell shaped rod with o-rings that moves back and forth I assume based on pressure to the front and rear brakes. It wouldn't take much to clog these in a car that has sat for a long period of time, so when doing a refreshstoration do yourself a favor and tear into the proportioning valve when going through the brakes. The pedal already feels more proper after bleeding the master again. Once I get them bled completely again, I'll let you guys know what the status is. Thanks again for all the help!

O.K. so I removed the proportioning valve and needless to say, it had quite a bit of crap in it. My question for those who know. When I remove the end caps and springs inside, is the center section where the sensor rod goes supposed to move back and forth at all? Mine doesn't seem to and I don't want to force it if it's not supposed to move.

When the system was cleaned out, there were no components attached. The calipers are oriented correctly with bleeders @ the top. I'll check the rod and bleed the front M/C resevoir again. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I know I'll get this figured out. It's not rocket science.

Andrew- I'm pretty sure the lines were clean. I had lots of good clean brake kleen coming out after sitting for awhile when i blew them out with compressed air. Bruce- Yes, the "proportioning valve" is what I'm referring to where the hard lines come out of the master, to it, and then out of it to the respective calipers/wheel cylinders. I will re bleed the front section on the car and see how it goes again......

Ron, I'll check that, but the car was not "messed with" according to the PO when it was in storage. No reason to think things weren't as they were prior to the original master being removed.

Correct on all of the above new, replaced, cleaned. I didn't really check the calipers for movement when I put the pads in because they were new. They seem to bleed ok. I'm just wondering why I'm not getting any front braking action. Maybe I should take the prop valve off and give it a good cleaning? I did flush all the lines through the prop valve with brake clean and air though. Maybe there's some junk in it somewhere. It's a mystery to me.

O.K. guys sorry in advance for the long post. My '71 was in storage for approx 23 years. At some point the master cylinder was removed so the system was basically "open" for lack of a better term. I've replaced everything with new except hard lines(cleaned out) and the factory proportioning valve. Everything has been bled properly including the master. My problem is that after bleeding, I get a firm pedal which apparently is only activating the rear brakes. I'm getting good clear fluid out of the calipers, but no braking action. I'm wondering if it's possible there may be something gummed up in the proportioning valve??? The master and rear wheel cylinders are Nissan OEM and the Calipers are from NAPA. Has anybody had a similar problem? BTW, the rears work well........

Thanks guys. It's getting tough to find any decent rubber in a 14 inch unless you wanted to go to a 60 series Azenis or something like that.

Thinking about a 195/65/14 tire to replace the 70 series. Anybody running these on a STOCK HEIGHT 240z? Does anyone have any pics? Will

Anyone......Bueller....Bueller....?

You would be right Randy. Just looking for the cap. I did go to Ace though and get some stainless screws already.

Hi guys, I'm looking for at least one screw on type P/S (Performace Specialties) center cap for a set of slotted mags. Anybody have any spares to part with or know where I might find one?

Big Thanks Bruce. I'm going to send that extra set of 4 screws we talked about.

They really are un-friggenbelievable. You can't even tell the car is running when the hood is closed(except for my old worn out glasspacks). Money well spent in my book.

Well I've been working on the barn find '71 for about a month or so. It had been in storage for about 23 years. I've been refreshing all the systems and decided to bite the bullet on a set of ZTherapy carbs. WOW:love:!!! This car runs fantastic!!! Now I've just got to get some new calipers/wheel cylinders on it and some new tires and I'm good to go. BIG THANKS to the folks at ZTherapy for an awesome product.

I was talking with Bruce from Z Therapy about the status of the worlds problems today and I think we solved most of them in about 20 minutes (good talking to you Bruce). He wanted to post this info up for those that are interested. Anyway, I've been pondering what to do with my gas tank that has been sitting for about 23 years half full of fuel. I thought about the POR route, but I went to a Radiator shop in Stockton called Report Radiator. They do restore fuel tanks with a process that they completely strip and clean the inside to look new. Then they coat the inside and bake it in a 600 degree oven. They said they would have the tank for 4-5 days and they fully guarantee their work. They've been in business forever and said they haven't had a tank ever come back. Price is $280.00 and I have no affiliation, just wanted to pass on the info.

JC, I help a friend with his endeavor in roadracing. The car is a Factory Five Racing GTM(sort of) and it is the only one like it in the world. We race it in endurance races mostly at Thunderhill, Buttonwillow, Infineon, and Laguna Seca, although we did take it up to Pacific Raceway near Seattle earlier this year. Can you say RAIN??? You are more than welcome to come and help out anywhere you can as this is an all volunteer effort. You can visit the website at www.pdg4.com for lots of photos and cool videos. I know it's not a Datsun and it couldn't be farther from it, but we promise an awesome adventure every time out to the track. Our next race is Oct. 9th at Buttonwillow. Feel free to contact Richard via the PDG website or I can put you in touch with him. Cheers, Will