Zpeed

gav... give me a call tommorrow, I'll be in ur side of the city, and i'll come and have a look. basically my whole rear end is new, and i'll tell ya what the vibration is... if its the wheel bearings u'll hear more a clunk clunk, id say it would be ur uni joints, most possibly ur driveshaft universal, its easy to change, i've changed mine twice, only costs like $20 the diff mount has around a .5cm give where you can see it coming over the actaul mount part, this is shown in the haynes manual... also the haynes manual basically says jack all about rear end noises, it just says to replace replace replace, which is basically ur only option... if it is ur diff, i can source you a used one that hasn't got no problems for less than 150... talk to me on msn about it...

the car in pizza the movie was a red 280zx... with a big v8 and 9inch diff... go to www.fatpizza.com.au and you can download the video of the car ripping it up http://www.fatpizza.com.au/videos/burnouts_H.wmv theres this other movie that has a 280zx in it, call RISK, has the chick from secret life of us in it, and the 280zx gets smashed in a insurance scam, has been on foxtel the last month or so... in pizza the series, they had a 260z 2+2 auto... which looked crayz one of those boys must be Z lovers

thats my next car, unless i decide again on a Z, hehe... wanting to put a SR20det in one of them, its hard to find one that is worthy of a swap, and not worthy of staying stock.. its the hard part

my best peice of advice to you would be this as you are a uni student like me, my best advice would be to cut ur loses with this car, if you going to get someone else to do it, its going to cost you in excess of 5g, because they have the to replace both frame rails, and to the extent i can see there being a heap more rust that you havn't even seen yet. best thing to do would be to try and find a good frame that you can swap ur stuff over to... it will take you a while to find a good body... but it could be possible worth it, its a option

as is i am looking in the region of 6800 with my 14inch rims, and 7500 with my 16inch rims... a tad bit negogiable.. but not much. as i would like to see the car painted, but don't really want the hassle of doing it.. but the car will come with a RWC... so you can understand what i mean by as is as is, is meaning paint wise, mechanical i might do a few more things but matters what the buyer wants etc... but it runs perfect now anyway...

here i got a jap spec 2+2 with a G-nose, i'm not sure what year it is... and don't remember where i got it from to find out...

225s fit fine... to fit bigger, you need a nice coil over setup, so that the struts are thinner, and therefore leaving you more room to fit bigger rims.. also the japs do it, by, putting the ZG flares on the car, and get some mega deep dish rims, which looks crayz, if you want to get more traction, but want 215 wide tyres, get good quality tyres, like semi comps, such as falken azenis

damn that sounds like a nice ride... i live in melbourne and always go for drives down great ocean road without a hicup, only hicup is having to look for a petrol station i feel isn't dodgy with there fuel... love the whindy mountain roads, but hate getting stuck behind slow cars

I'm wanting to sell my car, but not unless i get a good price for it how it is now, otherwise I'll paint it, and sell it then, as i know i'll get the money that i want, as it was supposed to be already painted and sold, but as things happen, it hasnt been done yet and i still have the car. its a 1976 datsun 260z 2 seater 5spd 2.6 ltr inline 6 twin carbie engine -------------engine--------------- 240z carbs with k&N filters 6-2-1 extractors, 2.25" exhaust with a fat dump tip 280zx distributer and coil (new breaker plate from keilor nissan) 5spd is out of a 82 280zx with 20k old clutch 3.9 ratio R200 Rear diffearential from a 280zx engine is basically stock, but with a tad more compression than original, and larger pistons 40cc rather the stock 36cc i think they are, all work done by truline performance in essendon. The engine had $1800 just in parts and machine work, spent on it last year but its only done around 20k since rebuild, and treated right. I've replaced that many parts in the car that i've spent over 10g just on the car already, and thats just in the parts that i have bought, me and my dad do the work ourselves new suspension (shocks and springs) springs are 2inch lower, new front urathane bushes, new ball joints, new rear wheel bearings, new moustache bar, new front tie rods, new fuel pump alot more that i just forgot about, and i have it all just about in receipts ----------------the body---------- Rust, is hardly any for the year of the car, there is a 10cent rust hole, that is at on the body inside the drivers door, which you can't see unless you open the door, floors are good (slight surface rust no problem thou) the bad part is the passanger door, as the pillar was slightly pushed in, easily repairable, as it just needs to be pulled out and the door aligned again, as it closes harshly and i think there is rust in the door skin, but no holes, don't think its anything bad, the paint in't to bad, its blue/purple with a slight pearl thou it, and it looks like a dogy job looks fantastic in photos, and at nite, but during the day you can see the chips and all that.. but the good part also is, as i've orderd a reconditioned front and rear bumpers, and are nice and cromed, and all holes welded up etc. also i've got a rear BRE wing sitting at home, that i havn't put on yet, which will go with the car, also i've got a new front spoiler on the car, that is still in fiberglass, also have a slightly dented non vented bonnet sitting at home also, but its red... i put a new hatch on the car, as the old one has some rust, and thats got new weather stripping. also im buying some exterior peices window trim etc... ------------interoir-------------- passanger seat has a rip or 2, drivers seat is a diffearnt type, but same style, I've got seat covers so you can't see it, carpets are all good, dash has a crack, all gauges work, its got a cd player with 7x10, and 10cm pioneers but nothing worth mentioning... I've got a set of 14inch globe wheels, and a set of 16inch performance wheels, both need new tyres, I'm still undecided on which set i'll sell with the car, as i'm not sure if im getting another datsun for my next car, and if i am i'll be keeping the 16s unless the buyer wants them, and gives me the same amount that i could sell them for now if anyone is interested, give me an email on zpeed@hotmail.com with ur phone or any other questions and i'll get back to ya asap or post here I'm not sure on a exact price, as it matters what the buyer wants me to do I will be looking to sell the car within the next month, otherwise i'll be paying to get it painted, then sell it for a nice price at the end if i do sell it, i would sell it with a RWC, and the amount of reg that it has left, think i got like 6 months... and the main reason i am selling it as, i am being forced to drive it to school everyday, and don't really want to do it to the car.... only really want to sell in melbourne, but unless the buyer does everything to move the car, i'll sell to a interstate buyer here are 2 pictures, with the 16inch wheels on them, and the suspension isn't lowerd in this picture... I have changed price to around $6500 with the 16s... need to sell ASAP

yer the europe one sounds sucky.. likely we (australia) get just about the same car as japan do... about the 30k aus on a z, would be, 10g buying a good 240z, 10k buy a wreck with 6spd, cost around 5k to get the motor in, and approriate mods, Ie upgraded computer possible... 3k get a good suspension setup, coil overs, and 2k on a good brake setup. possibly just using the brembos from the 350z wreck... that be around 30-35g or so... and ud have a sweet old 350z.. haha... and still have a new reliable motor id say it would be hard to get a 350z wreck, thats why i said price tag of 10g for the wrecked car/front cut possible

i found the problem, it was the wheel bearings, its all good now, bought some new ones and its fixed

I'm currently looking at buying this sweet fairlady roadster that i have my eye on, and am going to swap a black SR20det into it, boost to aroud 15psi, with cooler and exhaust, and all i will be getting is wheel spin... so hopefully i'll have that finished by the end of the year, but with school and work its going to be hard... will post pics of the fairlady when i go to look at the car tommorrow, already looked at the car, no rust, perfect interoir, crap engine, perfect swap donor

theres plenty of gear oil in the diff, as i changed the diff around 2 months ago, and put new oil in it, and it has no leaks etc etc any help, even if you think something is stupid. let me hear it, i will recheck all the mounting bolts in the morning to see 100% that they are 100%, but i checked twice last time i did them, and they were pretty damn tight also

hey went for a long drive today, and this noise in the rear got sudenly louder... it used to be tame and quiet but it suddenly got louder and now its to loud to ignore... its a deh deh deh deh noise, only when in motion, and its the same speed as the rotation of the wheels etc coming from the rear area, it could be possible wheel bearings, but its more coming from the middle, and i'm pretty sure it isn't the differantial due to having the same noise, when i had my old 3.7 ratio diff in there, now i have a 3.9... i beleive my diffearntial mount is broken but can't see how it is causing such a noise, i've orderd one from nissan, i can't see any u-joints that are broken, with the movement or anything, my moustache bar is perfect, all bolts are tight, i've got slight movement in my main driveshaft, but i thought that was normal... i really need to get this fixed, as the noise has got louder i can feel the noise now also... as i changed my diff, i know all the bolts are tight, and nothing that i could see was damage, except for the differantial mount, i'm getting one on tuesday, and hopefully its that, but is there anything else that would cause such a loud repeating, deh deh deh deh deh noise at the speed of the rotating wheels, and also my tyres are good pressure.. i think theres something small i have overlooked or something like that... please help,

thanks for that i remember on my points distributer that i had before, i glued that little peice together and that worked very well... but i'll see what i can do with this one... as this one is non points maybe i can use parts from my points dizzy but i will see... has anyone got the part number from nissan for that little part...

Hi for the last couple of weeks, my Z has had a few hikups, like it coughs and stutters at low revs, but i thought this was because my carbs were stuffed, and i have to top them up with some oil... but i opened up my distributer cap today, and saw a little ball bearing that was not held by anything... i remember the guy i bought it from showed me a stuff one and the little ball bearings were flying around the place.. so i am just asking what i should do.. the car still runs, just when it is cold it coughs a bit, but thats what i really think is the carb tuning, as my carbs are stuffed i need to tune them weekly for them to stay alive etc... its a l26 with 240z carbs, and a 79 electronic distributer if anyone can help me out with what i should do... i don't really want to spend any money on the car as i want to sell it soon, for a fairlady but if i gotta spend i will...

heres another

i got a few more pictures of them, but cbb putting them up... damn crayz things.. imagine one with a Rb26dett... wat a sleeper

make car straight and Paint car restore the interoir eventually fit lowred springs, and remove resonator from exhaust take car to nationals.... fit turbo engine

i got the smoke headlight covers, form all Z parts in sydney.. they look awesome, but i'm not leaving them on there when i do the respray.. www.geocities.com/mr_fireman_sam

where are you located, differant parts of the world have diffearnt prices for the nifty 240z

what kind of work did you want to get done etc, just a rebuild, pistons, rings etc. or head work, porting polishing, shaved head etc.. i got mine done at a place in brunswick, that does supurb work, and do performance engines, i've had in my family over 5 engines done at this place, so i trust them, and they do quality work at an ok price i guess... but i didn't shop around i went straight to him.. its on mt alanxadra road, in brunswick, opposite the mitsubushi place.. this place also does modding work.. i got my whole engine done for 1800, and that was just the parts, and machining, i put the engine back together, but i've done 20k VERY VERY hard, and it hasn't lost a beat, but up to you with where you want to go

I've got some pics of this car, without that swirly stuff on the side, and it does look pretty good, its a show car and i respect that, as it says theres nothing like it.. hehe i wouldn't mind seeing those front headlights in real life thou, theyd look kinda cool.. but i dunno,

i can see handling improving, the silvia engine is all alloy, and will weigh alot less than a Inline 6,

the holden monaro with the LS1 with the T56 is going to be the GTO... i'm not sure about what the sedan commodore will be called in the us, but that version i don't think will be going there untill 2005 or so, and then it will be a diffearnt looking car anyway.