StinkyCheese

I've thought about the ebay route. I will probably do it if I don't sell it in 3-4 weeks..

Thanks, good advice. I didn't include pictures of the rust for the same reason the PO didn't include them when he sold it to me - get them to sit in it and drive it and they'll be hooked. Honestly, I don't think I'll get $5900 for it, but I thought I'd take a stab at it and let them work me down. Any idea how much it would cost to have a shop cut out my passenger side floor hardware and install new ones? I'd like to know a ballpark figure to tell potential buyers..

I decided to get rid of my Z. My son is graduating school, going to give him my old Buick and get something else myself. I'm interested in everyone's opinion on the price. When I say "significant rust", I mean there are holes in the passenger floor that I can see the road through... http://www.ksl.com/index.php?sid=0&nid=443&tab=list%2Fview&ad=7312770

Hmm. Got my Kenwood speakers that Travel'n Man recommended in from amazon today. Went to install them and the certainly don't fit... :mad: I really don't want to cut-away the metal to make these speakers fit, but I don't know what else I can do?? Suppose I have to cut them - any recommendations on how to do it? Thanks, John

OK, I bought a pair of these and installed them in my Z. Went down to my local car stereo shop and they didn't have speakers that were shallow enough to fix. What speakers did you use? Specifically, does anyone know a part number I can look up? Thanks!

Plus they're not much people on this site want to see more than a potential restoration candidate..

I need to do this, too, and now I'm scared...

One carb attached, notice the coolant plumbing still flopping around. Second carb attached. I just capped what I could cap: Unfortunately, my linkage arm thingy was too long. When I started up the motor it kept the throttle open to about 4000 rpm! I knew that wouldn't fly, so I bent it to the correct length. I thought it would only be a temporary fix, but I haven't bothered to get another one yet... Finished product. Marty Rogan was kind enough to sell me his old air cleaner. I stripped and painted it. I should probably buy some stickers for it... The new carbs look so nice. Unfortunately the rest of my engine bay looks 40 years old. I'm going to have to start replacing all the hoses, clearcoat the valve cover, etc.. The performance difference is night and day. It doesn't cut out at high acceleration anymore. Doesn't have any cold-start issues or overtemp issues. It passes Utah emission standards with flying colors. It just runs so smooth – like a new car. I couldn't be happier. I decided to not re-attach the EGR or any of the rest of the gizmos on top. The new balance tube doesn't have an EGR opening. I think the other gizmos were broken anyway. Or maybe I'm just a retard that doesn't know anything about motors. My brain says, “its legal and it runs good, count it.” =D

Last fall I replaced my flat-top carbs on my 73 with ZTherapy round top carbs. I took a bunch of pictures for reference, so I thought I'd put together a quick description of what went down. Here's a couple of before pictures. What a mess of plumbing: Once I pulled the trigger and ordered the ZTherapy carbs (about $1100 for everything I ordered), they couldn't get here soon enough. I bugged them a few times and they eventually shipped them to me. All of the threads about ZTherapy are true – they are a joy to work with and have an excellent product. The unboxing: After watching the video, I was a little bummed about by this kinked hose, but I got it straightened out ok: I took the rear flat-top off first, and realized theres a lot of coolant plumbing to deal with. The flat-tops used the coolant, but the new carbs and balance tube do not.. In particular, this line going into the exhaust manifold – I didn't want to mess with that. I was sure it would break off in the rust, so I left it attached. Maybe I'll get headers some day.. Both carbs and balance tube removed: Installed the new balance tube. Looks really out of place on the manifold. So pretty. I guess I can only attach 10 pics, so I'll continue with the next message...

I'm also in the market for paint for my air filter cover. Any luck with this? Classic Datsun Motorsports has the orange for $28 + $12 shipping. That seems a little extreme..

Thanks everyone - I got a cover on the way.

My current air cleaner ('73 version) has "special" bolts like the ones in Marty's picture. Would my existing bolts work with the older air cleaner?

Yeah, I like the simple look of the earlier housings... Bruce, what attaching hardware should I be looking for?

One question - how do I know it will fit my new carbs? Does ANY pre-73 fit the round-top carbs?

Hi, I bought some ZTherapy carbs and they're on their way. I opted to not get the adapters and use my old air cleaner housing - I want to get the one that matches the carbs. I looked on ebay - nothing today. I found one in datsun classified and emailed the lister, but it was listed in February, so I doubt he still has it. Anyone out there got a spare I can buy? Thanks!

Any suggestions on where to get a set from a reputable source? I'm a littel squeamish buying sight-unseen.

Coil is new, too.

Yeah I looked at ZTherapy for some round-tops. Looks about $800 - I don't want to drop that much cash unless I know its the problem... Why would heat affect my carbs at 4000 RPM?

At the risk of getting booed offstage, I'm going to ask the same question I've been asking in "points vs pertronix". With a lot of help from Arne I got my pertronix ignition working. It starts and runs much better and no longer backfires. However, when the engine gets warmed up, the problems start. Note that when I start out, it runs like a champ. I can rev all the way up to 6000 rpm without a hiccup, going uphill as fast as I can go, in all gears (keeping it under 80mph, mind you). But once that temperature guage gets near the half-way point, it starts having problems. It will hiccup and run poorly around 4000-5000 RPM. Usually when its warm and I pull into my garage, it will die on its own. I have to keep my foot on the gas at stoplights because it will invariably drop to 500 RPM and then die within ~10 seconds. This has been going on for while - for a long time I thought it was my ignition, but the behavior is the same with points. I had this looked at by an old Nissan mechanic that has been working on Z's since the 70's. I paid him $180 to adjust the carbs when it wouldn't pass emissions last year. He told me he adjusted my carbs "as lean as they would go". It still wouldn't pass smog until I got some vacuum hoses routed correctly. I put in new spark plugs (NGK BP6ES). The wires are new. EGR valve is working correctly. What behavior in my engine cares whether it is hot or not? It seems like a switch is thrown when I get to certain spot on the temp guage. This isn't some fancy computer-controlled motor... What, if anything, is controlled by a temperature switch? If there isn't anything, what else could be affected by heat? I really don't think its an ignition problem.. I really appreciate your help. If I can't figure this out soon, I'm going to have to tuck my tail and take it to the dealer.:disappoin

How about a picture?

Wow, i need one, too, but you didnt get many responses, eh?

Here's a picture of my spark plugs, FWIW.

Yes, I have the original flat-top carbs. See attached picture. I read this on the Zpart website: "When these 73 carbs start to wear out one of the most observable problems is that they start to run very rich. Owners usually discover that most repair shops and average mechanics are not able to adjust these worn carbs to pass smog and hence, they are often chucked in the garbage and replaced by either early SU's or Weber DGV's." Sounds like a familiar story. Last fall I couldn't pass smog because I was running too rich. I took the car down to the Nissan dealer where they had an old guy that has been working on Zs since the mid '70s and took a 2-week class on Z carbs. He told me he adjusted my carbs "as lean as they would go". It still wouldn't pass smog until I got some vacuum hoses routed correctly. It passed smog and it ran pretty good, but still choked out at 4000 rpm when running hard. Its definitely worse now.

What do you think?

I'm still reading the early years, so I've got a ways before it gets boring.. I assume you're aware that this car doesnt have an electrical fuel pump. Just the mechanical one by the front of the engine. I don't know if its a fuel problem, air problem, ignition problem, karma problem, anything.. (Probably not a karma issue - I am nice man with happy feelings, all of the time). I just don't know much about diagnosing problems. I've never really tried to fix my car myself before. Its a nice hobby that keeps me out of trouble. I feel I've learned a ton in the last year. I didnt know anything about ignitions before last fall. Taking it to a mechanic is surrender. But Im beginning to think the ignition is OK, too. Would you suggest i rebuild the fuel pump? If the answer's yes, what kind of damage/wear should i look for? I this a common need?