robftw

I put seafoam in my crank case and ran it for 500 miles, my car used to tick like yours. After that + adjusting the valves the problem went away.

Go find your old master cylinder immediately. When i did my car, i found that NEW master cylinder piston was actually shorter than the old one. I had to reuse the old piston on the new MC to make it work properly. Also, change your slave cylinder now it will save you headaches later. One last thing, did you change out the flex hose? They corrode after a while and create a 1 way valve scenario sometimes.

Take a bottle, fill it with brake fluid 1/2 way Run a hose from the bleeder to the bottle, submerge it in brake fluid and crack the bleeder Go top off the the brake fluid and start pumping, do it about 10 times and check the fluid Repeat the process 3-4 times per wheel. Close the bleeder before you remove the hose!

I wasn't so lucky D:

You adjust it with a screwdriver and get it so that the shoes just barely rub on the drum. Did you clean and grease these points? (its the shiny areas)

Buy a new master too, they almost always go bad at the same time

Pretty cool looking http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/2648807982.html

Heres a pretty painless way to bleed your clutch, jack the passenger side up, place a 1.5-2 foot hose on the bleeder. Next you will want to get an empty bottle (water bottle works good) Fill that with about 3'' of brake fluid, place the hose into the bottle and make sure its in the brake fluid. This will keep air from getting back up into the system. Next you want to top off your master cylinder, then go crack open the bleeder valve. Pump the clutch pedal about 10 times and check the master cylinder. I usually do this 3-4 times to be sure. Once you finish that, top off the master cylinder and go close the bleeder valve. there should be ZERO air in the system tell us what happens to clutch feel after you do this.

From my experience here in NY most inspectors don't give a damn about the older cars, so they let a lot more things slide.. For instance on my car, i have SS lines routed throughout, i have no cat, No EGR, no charcoal can everything was removed. The car has MSA thermal coated exhaust + straight pipe going to a magnaflow race muffler The rear license plate light did not work, no horn whatsoever headlight switch was broken at the time and did not work, and THEY STILL PASSED IT.

its gone now, sorry everyone

Pay for shipping. PM me your area code, first come first serve

I'm looking for another set.. mine were vandalized and destroyed

Detailed the engine bay, you can see the two-tone rotary engine housings. They aren't mazda colors so this engine was infact rebuilt at some time. Gaskets look brand new too

Go buy one now, i'm sure most of us are used to "that look" by now Interior detailed

Couple pictures, when i get a chance to steam clean out the interior and armor all it i'll take better interior shots