robftw

I put seafoam in my crank case and ran it for 500 miles, my car used to tick like yours. After that + adjusting the valves the problem went away.

Go find your old master cylinder immediately. When i did my car, i found that NEW master cylinder piston was actually shorter than the old one. I had to reuse the old piston on the new MC to make it work properly. Also, change your slave cylinder now it will save you headaches later. One last thing, did you change out the flex hose? They corrode after a while and create a 1 way valve scenario sometimes.

Take a bottle, fill it with brake fluid 1/2 way Run a hose from the bleeder to the bottle, submerge it in brake fluid and crack the bleeder Go top off the the brake fluid and start pumping, do it about 10 times and check the fluid Repeat the process 3-4 times per wheel. Close the bleeder before you remove the hose!

I wasn't so lucky D:

You adjust it with a screwdriver and get it so that the shoes just barely rub on the drum. Did you clean and grease these points? (its the shiny areas)

Buy a new master too, they almost always go bad at the same time

Pretty cool looking http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/2648807982.html

Heres a pretty painless way to bleed your clutch, jack the passenger side up, place a 1.5-2 foot hose on the bleeder. Next you will want to get an empty bottle (water bottle works good) Fill that with about 3'' of brake fluid, place the hose into the bottle and make sure its in the brake fluid. This will keep air from getting back up into the system. Next you want to top off your master cylinder, then go crack open the bleeder valve. Pump the clutch pedal about 10 times and check the master cylinder. I usually do this 3-4 times to be sure. Once you finish that, top off the master cylinder and go close the bleeder valve. there should be ZERO air in the system tell us what happens to clutch feel after you do this.

From my experience here in NY most inspectors don't give a damn about the older cars, so they let a lot more things slide.. For instance on my car, i have SS lines routed throughout, i have no cat, No EGR, no charcoal can everything was removed. The car has MSA thermal coated exhaust + straight pipe going to a magnaflow race muffler The rear license plate light did not work, no horn whatsoever headlight switch was broken at the time and did not work, and THEY STILL PASSED IT.

its gone now, sorry everyone

Pay for shipping. PM me your area code, first come first serve

I'm looking for another set.. mine were vandalized and destroyed

Detailed the engine bay, you can see the two-tone rotary engine housings. They aren't mazda colors so this engine was infact rebuilt at some time. Gaskets look brand new too

Go buy one now, i'm sure most of us are used to "that look" by now Interior detailed

Couple pictures, when i get a chance to steam clean out the interior and armor all it i'll take better interior shots

I'm going to pick up the car today, i will take a bunch of pictures of the interior and stuff if its still light out when i get home

I forgot who drew this picture, so sorry for not posting your name and giving you credit. But this is everything i would expect form a modern day s30

They have a very smooth powercurve, and are extremely balanced drivers. Much better handling than the Z cars especially if you get one with a sport tuned suspension, or the GXL model with the adjustable suspension. I would remove the DTSS in it though, the car becomes more predictable also 9000rpm redline is fun

I missed my old rx7 so much i bought another one, 32k miles.. i got it for 1500$ NO rust, southern car Its a steal, it has a few small problems here and there, about 200$ in parts are needed. Sunroof, Alternator belt, Front fog lights and a starter. Btw, the hood isn't messed up, i just never closed it I'm pretty ecstatic over this i havent owned an rx7 for about 2 years

Just hit the drums with a rubber mallet, they come right off

I have a set of cylinders and SHOES brand new I bought them for a 77-78 on accident 35 shipped and they're yours it will save you a bunch of money

If they don't stick to the earlier car buckets, you can always epoxy another magnet to the inside of the bucket nobody would ever notice

My only complaint is that they change the direction the differential side drive shaft bolts face.

You could always try to powdercoat the block white

From my experience a white engine block will eventually discolor and yellow in certain hot spots. All of the oil dirt and grim will show up easier, so prepare to detail that engine every time you wash the car. Also, (this isn't all that important but i'll share it anyway) The engine won't dissipate heat as well, but its not noticeable.. maybe 5 degrees at best Here's how i did mine