robftw

Forgot to mention, it also has arp studs throughout

So i've been debating buying an LS1 that's over at the wreckers I'm well aware that i probably wont get to 300hp on this engine unless i get some serious head work done, i had the intentions of building a 3.1 stroker Basically it would come packaged like this: P90 Turbo head, cleaned and rebuilt <3000 miles ago N42 Block (64k miles) Comes with original cam + reground externally oiled cam Intake Duration 270 Exhaust Duration 270 Intake / exhaust lift is .460 MSA 6-1 Header (thermal coated) + 2.5'' exhaust system and Turbo muffler Dizzy brand new, less than 1200 miles Brand new taylor plug wires New starter New alternator Aluminum fuel rail 77 280z 5Speed trans Engine wiring harness +ecu and matching afm Comes with extra intake manifold and N47 head I would sell the LD28 crank separately for 400$ I'm thinking asking 1200 for everything, but is this to much?

I'll go check right now, but i'm pretty sure that wire off the condenser just goes to ground Okay i just took a look, the female condenser wire (blue) connects to a black wire. I have mine wrapped up with plastic sheathing so i can't tell you where it leads to, but i think it was just grounded under my ballast resistor

Does it attach to this area? with 4 studs sticking out

Silly question but did you use brake pad grease on them?

So i took my cam shaft off, and the cam towers but completely forgot to write down what order i removed them in... I "think" it goes this way Front one is easy because it has the retainer thing #2 front is B .49 rear is C #3 front is Z .49 rear is G #4 front is B .52 rear is C #5 is .12 Is it different for every car? My camshaft is on its way to isky so i can't measure anything to check

It is, and my girlfriend hates it. They usually draw things like "xxx was here <3 <3" and she gets pissed

Well it rained a little bit, some chalk streaks down the car but most of the stuff is still visable, when i ran my finger over the chalk it wiped right off. I'm gonna go ahead and say sponge bath will be most effective at cleaning it. if you notice the greyish color of the car, thats for the white chalks "prep" coat, i simply erased that stuff. here is a video walk around

It was the FIRST thing drawn on it... Its on the roof with the rising sun, its to dark to take a picture now

battle at the border drift event

, i actually tried to do that, its not possible with this stuff

I purchased the car as a shell for 500$ with the intent of it being a "fun car" complete restoration is out of the question budget wise, so we went a different route. The car is mostly track driven, so the paint job was to be done on the cheap. I wanted it flat black, but didn't want to spend $500 or more on a paint job (both of my fathers air compressors are down) so after a long night of drinking we came up with the idea of chalkboard paint, did some research and this stuff lasts out in the sun, and its incredibly hard after 20$ and a trip to home depot, i finished with this: i had to tip my hat to crazyoctopus, i learned alot from reading his blog so for a grant total of 15 minutes the car looked like his 240z In this photo you can see all the grime and oil that was all over the hood from the repairs / maintenance / engine modification a sanding sponge took it all off About 1/3 done #crazyoctopus And here it is done, it needs to cure for another day still, I'm going to wet sand it tomorrow because this stuff was applied with a roller :$ According to a a few guys who did this to the hoods of their cars, it will be very smooth once you "prep" the car by going over the entire thing with chalk For those of you who live in WNY 103.3 the edge was interested in me parking the car next to their booth at dunn tire raceway park for cruise nights, They think its a cool idea for the people who visit to draw on it. if everything goes as planned this should start next weds. I've also sent a few emails to college art teachers, as well as my old art teachers from highschool & middle school They'd love to have the students draw all over the car for a day.

I've read conflicting things about this, so im a bit weary of doing it

Well its not internal, I guess im going to throw the whole head up on ebay and try to get another P90 cam shaft minus the rockers because those are getting reground

According to the original owner it was never swapped, which is why im confused. Stupid question, but without having to take my valve cover off and taking a look at the P90cam is there an easy way to check if the N47 cam is internally drilled?

it came off a zx with 150k miles, the N47 cam only has 62k The valve train on the P90 was rebuilt, the cam however was not replaced.

So my head is a 1977 N47. I was planning to take this camshaft and get it re-ground and put it on my P90... But here is the problem... its got a spray bar, i thought all 77+ were internally oiled? And the final cam tower is damaged slightly near where the cam sits, i may be able to grind it smooth. What can i do to remedy this, use the N47 cam towers + spray bar + N47 cam ? Or can i use the P90 towers + no spray bar + n47 cam? I don't know what to check for the cam shaft differences externally vs internally oiled.

Does a PDF of this exist? I'd like to browse through it.. it'll be a week before i get mine from MSA

I've got a replacement head if you want it, 62k miles. came off a 77 280z. I will be keeping the rockers and cam-shaft for my re-grind you can have everything else 50$ obo + shipping, i have no idea what these sell for

In 3 days i've had my starter, alternator, 4 batteries (kept using sears free replacement warrant until the new alt showed up) and now the fuel pump replaced.. At least everything died at the same time, after 35 years they all finally gave up

if anyone is up to it.. i did this on my dashboard. Take a demel and grind out the cracks into a V shape Fill it with flexible epoxy, sand smooth and then cover it with that semTEX texture paint, or something like it.

Last time i checked it did, but right now it wont turn over, and when it does the starter will move VERY slowly The starter is brand new, and so is the battery, so its probably an electrical fault which is why i asked if the voltage regulator has any part of the starter operation. I've triple checked all of my grounds.

I''ve never seen the bumper rubber in person, but is it ACTUAL rubber or just a plastic insert? I could make one out of resin if i had a mould, maybe even silicone so it retained the rubberyness, but it would be quite the experiment

Its so temping but i cant do it right now, it would be too expensive with little return. If anyone wants to buy it PM me, i will give you the mans phone number

My pcv is relatively new, so it should be working, however i am buying a new one anyways to rule out any problems. its $1.60 on rockauto.com right now. I checked the temp with a thermometer and it read the same temp as the gauge in the car, its just running hot for some reason.. i even capped off the coolant hose running across the engine bay earlier. edit: i just checked the FSM, i'm going to take a look at the voltage regulator, does this have any effect on the starter system?