robftw

This car is making me want to pull my hair out, i removed the IAC and put the fuel rail back on. Re-routed the fuel so it goes tank->filter->rail->FPR IN -> ->FPR out return (plugged one inlet) Now i got the thermostat working again, however the car is running hot now, about 25% hotter than usual and my oil pressure is running 80lbs @ 2000 rpm, is this normal? it also feels sluggish on acceleration again, this time with no vacuum leaks. This has been hell week, and finally the one thing that made me extremely worried is my blow by is still there, even after adjusting the valves.. i found a trace of oil/water mix in one of the hoses leading back to the intake manifold. I'm hoping its just condensation. I'll find out more when i change the oil.

i wish i was in CA, OP will you ship to NY?

I'll browse around for someone with 16x10s on the car, as for the fronts should i increase the backspacing to 4.5 or 5 maybe?

And on a side note, diamond racing does not offer a 16x9 I was considering getting the 16x10s for the rear and getting a 255 50 16 tire with 4.5'' of back spacing on the wheel

car is a 76' 280z I'm looking to purchase some diamond racing wheels in the next week or two so im trying to figure out wheel size I was given a set of tires with the following measurements, they are brand new and i would like to keep them because they are the tire size i was looking for originally. Only problem is i need to find a wheel that fits them perfectly. I would like to fill out my ZG flares as well The cars ride height is stock. My body panels have been cut for flares already by the IPO, so having some poke is okay. Side note, the tires may seem a little thick to the herrafrush crowd, but i think the thicker tires look good on a Z car Fronts: 205 55 16 if my measurements are correct I'm thinking a 16x8 with 4'' of back space should fit perfect up front and fill out the flares Rears: 225 55 16 And for these rear wheels a 16x8 with 3.5'' of back spacing should also fit perfect and fill out the flares. If anyone has any photos of this wheel size bolted on please share them, i'd like to see what they look like on a car with flares. I've attached photos of how the car sits now, it looks lifted...

I had this same problem about a month ago, i replaced everything in the brake system.. It turned out to just be the pedal adjustment. Under the dash you will see a stopper for the brake pedals return distance, back this all the way out so the pedal has a large amount of free play and take it for a test drive, see if that fixes it. Afterwards adjust it as necessary so that it is safe for everyday usage, IF this is not the cause it is probably your flex hoses between the caliper and hard lines to the body they wear out and will eventually create a one way valve on the inside.

Oil pressure gauge works fine too, i'm thinking its just a wire short somewhere

No i don't smell any gas at all, it just stalls out

When i unplug the temp sender it raises the RPM, when i apply throttle the car stalls out

Most of the wires in my 280z had color matched connectors, I don't know about your car specifically but it doesn't look like they use the same connector type twice in certain areas.

I just looked it over again and again... i found a big vac leak between my AFM and TB, i guess i shifted a connector hose the wrong way when i removed the manifold. The car runs good now. I'm going to take your advice and change the FPR around tomorrow and see how it goes. I took a small peak around the water temp wires and couldn't find any loose connections or shorts, this was giving me problems a while back i think one of the wires is just broken inside its plastic shielding, i'll take two wires tomorrow and bridge the gap and see if i can get it to work. if so i'll just replace the connector + wires after the bullets Also i will probably be removing the AAR when i shave the intake manifold completely. I'm just trying to keep the street driveability there for a little while longer.

I'm making a new thread because this is a separate question, on my 78 280z i have removed the old fuel rail and replaced it with a much nicer one. The current fuel line setup is this, Tank -> Filter -> FPR in-> FPR out-> FUEL RAIL -> block off plate I have the return line routed with the vacuum line intact. Cold start removed Problem 1 of 2 When driving the car takes off very sluggish now, i don't think i have any vacuum leaks and the EGR system has been completely blocked off. I have one line going to the TB and one line going to the FPR, and finally brake booster. As for the emissions stuff on top of the manifold i have retained the idle air flow regulator valve so i don't have to drive with three feet. However i have removed the bypass plate and ran a new hose going from the passenger side of the engine block into the thermostat housing. Problem 2 of 2 For whatever reason the car nolonger has any type of temp reading for the gauge.. when i turn the car on it slowly raises all the way to one side and stays.

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts/nissan-clip~24220-e4101.html

Isky has them for 6$ each if i remember, Schneider too MSA marks everything up, but they do have good customer service (Most of the time) And when they don't the VP sends you an email apologizing.

I used dry ice to remove all of the tar on my car.. the stuff is great

exactly why i was going to buy it, i'd get the engine too but my block only has 63k and its so easy to pull out of the car and modify there is no reason to build up a second motor I hope OP jumps on this even though its a long drive for him

Call this guy, his name is ray he has an 82 engine and trans for 500$, i was going to get the trans but i passed up because i've got another coming from dominica (its form a dr30) I offered him 150$ for the trans and he accepted it... i just never went and got it because i got the DR30 tans for free. He lives somewhere in buffalo, 716-570-5842 I believe he said they had about 70k on them. Edit, i found his CL add http://buffalo.craigslist.org/pts/2439463496.html

Sent you a PM Edit, if anyone needs anything off of my N47 intake manifold let me know, i have the cold start, air valve, all the emissions crap and charcoal canister.. just pay for shipping and its yours. I also have the L shaped metal hose adapter that goes to the TB

Well i got everything back together and buttoned up, did a wire tuck too and cleaned up the engine bay. (minus the shaved intake manifold thats what my spare one is for) I took the advice in this thread and capped off one end of my FPR and re-routed the fuel lines so everything is nice and cleaned up, the FPR sits on the firewall now One problem though.. it appears one of my injectors was replaced at some point and the rubber hose coming out of it is 1.5'' to short, if anyone has a single injector they are willing to part with please let me know.. they are 62$ each new I'm not installing my new ones yet because i don't have the ECU to go with them.. damn boat mail sucks!

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html That page has all / most of the transmission serial numbers the number itself is on the bellhousing somewhere

Check out transport reviews .com

i cant tell from the picture, but is the pin notched on that one mount?

this may be a silly question but are they on the wrong sides by chance? stuff like this has slipped me up before.

Okay here are the results. After sitting overnight the chewy candy center floated to the top, the skittles are almost completely dissolved. I got some coffee filters and strained off the candy center, this took an EXTREMELY long time to do... This is all the stuff that you do not want, kinda gross that this is just 1/5th a bag of skittles. Here is the final product, it smells incredibly sweet, and does still taste like skittles. However it keeps the tasteless vodka burn. My favorite of the group is orange / Lime. Red kinda tastes like cough syrup

haha oh wow, it was a single bulb... Maybe this will stop my battery dying too. all of these problems only started once i changed the bulb