robftw

Never to old for SCIENCE This is what television did to my generation, and youtube.

Actually i did change one of my rear brake bulbs, i grabbed a similar bulb when i was in the parts store (they dont have any others) i should have checked the part no.

76 280z. This just started the other morning, and i can't figure out why its happening. When i depress my brake pedal all of my gauges turn on, and my front indicators with my brake lights.. Worst part is i just got stuck somewhere with a dead battery and i think its because of this, i just checked all of the wires and externally they are all solid, i have no loose ends anywhere. This is driving me nuts.. is this any type of warning signal that something is failing by chance? Also my red volt meter LED turns on and stays on until about 2500-3000 RPM. Does this mean failing alternator? The needle on the volt meter does not work so i don't know what voltage im operating at.

Decided to do an experiment today.. Using vodkas amazing ability to suck up any flavor you put in it. I took a 1lb bag of skittles, and 1.75l of vodka separate the colors, and pour an equal amount of vodka in each jar. From what i've heard you will be able to taste the sweetness of the skittle yet keep the flavorless burn of the vodka. I can't wait to see how this turns out tomorrow and i will share the results. If all goes well next week will be jolly ranchers edit: thanks for moving, i wasn't paying attention when i posted this! you saved me a PM

You guys are all correct, the person who did it doesn't know the differences between the model years, i assume he just grabbed what looked good at the time from google

http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/ Try them, they have literally EVERYTHING and if you give them the dimensions / threading they can probably make or find what you need

I was actually considering capping one end of the FPR, and running one line instead of a T fitting. Has anyone done this? and are there any negative effects? And i never thought about a pressure imbalance, and i have a 77 engine but the FPR is a 4 port unit (including vac)

Okay i just got the stuff i needed, they didnt have 5/16 so i got some 1/4 inch instead. i plan to use the original hoses, but things will be relocated a bit. everything in this image is in the correct order right? or am i missing something.. Cold start will be deleted, charcoal can is deleted. Brake booster is still there, but its not drawn.

Thank you! Hopefully they have it in 5/16, its an odd barb size. Worse case scenario i have to get 1/4 But i think i can make those work with good non-gear clamps

I'm too afraid to take my injectors off the car for fear of cracking the rubber, and i don't have my new set yet. I will be going to home depot in about an hour to get supplies to build my own fuel rail. If anyone happens to know this off hand it would be greatly appreciated. Or alternatively, if anyone knows the correct barb size i should buy that would work too.

Not shiny clean, but die grinder no more extra brackets and vacuum hoses clean. Sorry for the confusion.

Isn't the clutch hardline just regular brake line? You could buy a coil of new stuff and bend it to shape.

This happened to me the other night, not from changing filters but from doing donuts and having very little gas in the tank...i ran my lines dry :| Did you just replace the engine bay fuel filter? If so just get a friend and starter fluid.. have him mist it into the intake for about 10 seconds after you get the car to start on the fluid. It will get the gas to flow up into the filter and run again.

I sent you a PM Thanks for helping out with the die grinder surgery

I'm going to clean my intake manifold up and make my engine look nice(er) im looking for an intake manifold to practice on first before i ruin my current one and leave the car undriveable.

Paying a local shop is going to be incredibly expensive.. Here is an idea of what your in for it cost me 60$ in welding supplies and a lot of labor from myself and my father. Cutting them out is probably the worst part of the job, and the most time consuming. http://rob280z.blogspot.com/2011/05/frame-rail-and-floor-replacement-part-1.html http://rob280z.blogspot.com/2011/05/frame-rail-and-floor-replacement-part-2.html http://rob280z.blogspot.com/2011/05/frame-rail-and-floor-replacement-part-3.html

I gotta say im pretty jealous. I get about 10mpg but i have all of my emissions stuff removed, along with charcoal can etc... if i keep it under 3000 i can get MAYBE 15mpg..

I dug this up from rockauto, these are the pistons you need. BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0125195 SEALED POWER Part # H832CP DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS Part # P616 30$ each, beck arnley comes with rings.

$150 for the grind $4 per rocker I'll see what i can do dyno wise, the pulls are rather expensive here

Thats what im mostly worried about. The cam shop just called me back and suggested this grind: .460/.460. And the Duration is (In/Ex): 270/280 that would allow me to keep my stock springs, and possibly lash pads. Which would actually work out great because my valvetrain was just rebuilt and all of these parts are new.. this cam "should" pull hard from 2400-6600 which is right where i want it to be

Yes because of budget reasons i want to keep the lift at .460, unless i can reach .480 without any troubles. I haven't found any information on the web about stock springs an .480 cam lift EDIT: Just called the machine shop, they can resurface my rockers for 4$ each. instead of buying new ones I'll get new springs and grind it to .480 lift

zero cc dish volume should be flat tops, can you do a cross reference part search and check the nissan truck that came with the ka24 flattops stock?

I'm looking to get my camshaft reground locally and i've come up with two possible grinds that will suit my needs. I primarily drive this car on the street, and take it to the strip every weekend. I'm looking for something that would wake the car up from about 2000 to 6500 Rpm These are the two grinds i've been looking at, and i'd like some opinions / input on them. 1) Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. And the Duration is (In/Ex): 274/274 2) Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. And the Duration is (In/Ex): 274/280 And a 3rd option which i'm not so sure about is this one, Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. And the Duration is (In/Ex): 270/280 MSA sells this grind and i guess the car really bogs down until 3000rpm The car has an L28 in it with an MSA thermal coated header and exhaust system, emissions removed with a P90Turbo head. I'm really leaning towards number 2

A friend made this and i figured i would share it. http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/541/zwallfinal.jpg

Can you make another one of these with the 4.11 rear end?