robftw

i just went on ebay for the first time in two months, they restricted my account access because i owe them 4$ for a listing.. Oops. I'll have to send money over to paypal and fix that, it'll be about 2 weeks because of how slow paypal is with bank transfers... darnit

I've got a lightly modified l28 i would put in it.. But i really dont trust myself to be able to fix the roof... and paying thousands of dollars to the body shop is out of the question

Here is the second run, i did a 10.92 here vs the same 3000gt I thought we had both runs recorded from this angle but we didnt

Hmm, maybe its worth the investment, the guy wants 1000$ for it and all of the parts associated with it. The only problem i saw with it is it has a salvaged title, under the notes section it had rear end "tail light damage" - Replaced and fixed" The title is from 1986, the guy bought it for 300$ at an auction. The engine does run very well, however it only starts when the carbs are primed. He said he drained the gastank so either 1) particles are blocking the filter (i didnt look) or 2 fuel pump needs help

Thanks, do you know anything about the redline carbs on the engine? Previous owner said the exhaust manifold or intake had to be modified... this was 20 years ago so he doesnt remember very well. ive attached another picture of the carbs on the engine. And i think that car could be fixed, the hatch doesn't look bent i think its just the roof. i've completely cut out the floors in my car and replaced both those and the frame rails, but i dont think i could handle this roof job.. and it will be expensive...

I checked this entire car top to bottom, i couldnt find any rust on the bottom. The guy who owns it has had it since 1980. Always garage kept

Yep, called 3 dealerships and they couldn't get one.

It is an lsd. its actually the front diff from a patrol. Do you know where i can buy the transmission gear for the speedo? I don't know of any car that came with it from the factory in the rear end.. And i will be keeping my tires the same, i will probably be using a 235 60 R14 tire for daily driving, maybe a 235 50 R14 DOT drag tire.

It was java, i forgot to reinstall it after i reformatted my machine. Also since you are the diff. man here would it be smarter to get a 3.9 instead of the 4.11? i don't care much for highway speeds or gas mileage

background story, this 73 240z has been on craigslist for the past 2 years. I've seen it there when looking for engine parts but never bothered to go check it out until today. The car had a tree fall on it, right above the rear hatch near the driver side triangle, it looks like the sheet metal separated from itself inside the car, i think it is un fixable because of where the damage is. it appears the area above hatch has caved in on the top of the car, and the hatch will not open more than 6'' I have taken a few photographs to share with you all. The absolute sad part about all of this, is the interior is immaculate, it has an uncacked dash, 71k original miles. There is no rust under the body or under the seats. (frame rail is bent from bad jack position though) It's a really sad, and i want to buy it even though i know it will probably never see the street again. The owner has a bunch of extra parts, lights, bumpers, carbs... which is where i need your help. Body damage Weber carbs, i didnt notice until after i took the picture that the serial was blurry! This is 1 of 2 carbs i need help identifying it comes with circular mesh and air cleaner covers. There are two of them, and what looked like a two large diameter pipes to connect them to the manifold ( i dont know what this part is called forgive me) Dash board Carb 2 of 2, says redline on the airbox

I get this on all my browsers... hmm maybe im missing an addon.. does it use flashplayer? or something else noscript is also disabled...

Does not work

http://fatboyraceworks.com/gears/

found a neat tool for this kind of thing, this new trans looks like the way to go. Now for that 4.11 lsd...

Skip to 3:40 for the race, everything before then is getting to the strip / harassing a honda driver because he was driving his car around bouncing the rev limiter all night in front of girls I was not yelling VTEC YO at him, it was my passenger. I raced my friends 3000gt, and won by about .70 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KV3sBBQdRmc it was a great time, i've never had so many comments and questions about my car in one place. Atleast 300 people were checking it out all night, crowds gathered around it!

I don't have access to one, but i do have a 4.11 on its way, its an LSD off the front of a 4x4 nissan patrol. it wont be here for a few months though.

Check all of the wires on the thermostat housing, mine had bad connections and it would cut out completely around 2300 rpm and would not rev any higher

My rear end is 3.545 Current transmission is 1 - 3.321 2 - 2.077 3 - 1.308 4 - 1.000 5 - 0.864 The trans im looking at is this 1 - 3.062 2 - 1.858 3 - 1.308 4 - 1.000 5 - 0.745 I feel when im going through gears the powerband drops off when going to 3rd, i want to remove this. I also drop a lot of RPM while shifting. with this new transmission my 1st-2nd gear should have slightly slower acceleration but a higher speed in each gear with the benefit of being closer to each other it should be slightly "faster" correct? Will swapping to the new transmission alleviate this problem?

I know nothing about mikunis however two of my friends both had this problem, the first friend had a bad vaccum, the second friends jets were too small. neither car was a datsun but it couldnt hurt to check

Everyone here should contact and lowball this guy... maybe he will get the hint and accept a reasonable offer in a few weeks.

i used 2x 1000lb straps tightened down to the entire block.. this is what it looked like installing it Had to deflate the front tires for clearance

I adjusted the MC and it kept sticking up front... Last idea was to change the pedal travel adjustment screw..which in retro spec i should have checked first. I'm not sure what the stock setting was but mine was out as far as it would go i loosened it up almost all the way and now the car drives completely different, it doesnt feel like its dragging its feet anymore, shifts are much smoother and it coasts MUCH better. Hopefully this will fix it, i've got a lot of driving to do the next few days so we'll see if the sticking comes back On another note, is the E-brake cable adjustable on these cars? Now that the brakes are free the ebrake doesn't grab as much as i'd like it to

I have cracked the bleeder and it pisses fluid and relieves the pressure, i'm going to take your advice and go check the pedal to master adjustment.

The booster and master were replaced, i should have mentioned this earlier but when the front tires lock up the right side is always seized shut, the left side is usually a bit stiffer than it should be. It also sat for 4 years before i bought it

It's easy to get at for me.. The proportioning valve is the one on the firewall right above / next to the transmission tunnel unscrew one bolt and its out. I plan to clean mine out sometime tomorrow