robftw

It doesn't with the hazard switch either It won't click in place either..(with the turn signal switch) i think it might be something in the column

I got the cap and rotor on and it fired right up, it ran great for a while and then developed the same symptoms again, however my friend came by (who happens to be a master nissan tech..) And after a few wire traces we found a few injectors to be clogged, so i'll be getting some fuel treatment tomorrow and having at it. I drove it home with no headlights with said friend following me, Open headers as well... All i can say is it was scary / awesome at the same time. I've never had so many people clap and shout at me in a vehicle before.. all the beach goers were loving it. We traced the headlight wire too, the redstripe white wire is the culprit. Another thing i figured out is that my right turn signal is not turning on either.. Lastly, i have the dreaded clutch slave/master length problem.. i checked everything to make sure they matched up and the clutch refused to disengage completely.. i ended up building a spacer on the lathe to bandaid it for now, it feels like the clutch is slipping a little bit, i need to shorten it. 1 bad bulb in the speedo, and the clock.

Here is some more details Fuel pressure is good, 35-40 psi at idle The plugs are brand new NGK Part # 3824 {#BR6ES11} Standard .44 gap The distributor is Brand new, i set the engine to TDC, marked the #1 position on the old distributor and matched the new one to its old location The cap points are worn - im installing a new one today The rotor is also kind of corroded (i used emery cloth to clean it off) but im installing a new one today. Plug wires are brand new, they have been checked for good contact with the plugs / cap Now here are some symptoms.. When i push down on the cap itself the idle speeds up and sounds normal. When i mess with the plugs nothing changes When i move the dizzy nothing happens I do not have any vacuum leaks I pulled an injector plug and it did not change the idle speed, so its not running on all cylinders, but when i push down on the cap and pull the injector plug its audible that something is missing. I hope its just a bad cap

Its got a really rough idle.. moving the dizzy does not do Anything to improve it. around 300-700 rpm Oddly, if i press down on my dizzy cap the idle speeds up quite a bit and sounds decent.. maybe i should replace the cap too? I nudged one of my injector clips on accident and it came off, it did not change the idle at all, i think my injectors might be bad, or my dropping resistor... which sucks. I'll have a video up in a few minutes. edit: video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5n5Vv4dVxI8

An ebay seller made a mistake and sent me the wrong brake wheel cylinders and shoes. Returning them would cost almost as much as what i paid for them since he is not refunding my shipping, so i'm putting them up here. Normally i would make a classified add but for some reason my browser is not letting me.. i keep getting a server error. I have two brand new brake cylinders, and a set of rear brake shoes for a 77-78 280z Shoes are Auto extra AXS480 Cylinders are CONI-SEAL WC13780.. one of the cylinders came in a wagner? box i think it was.. they're both exactly the same one is a different color. 20$ shipped anywhere in the united states.

Check and make sure you dont have a vacuum leak from the AFM to the intake manifold, could be your AFM too... Or timing

Wow, they showed up today this guy ships fast!

No they're cut, this is before i smoothed out the bondo.. The previous owner didnt even seal the welds on the rears! I had to shoot POR15 up inside the rear end of the car just to make sure it would be okay..

At most i would be using 15x8 or 16x8

Okay i'll give it a try sometime down the road, one thing i was going to ask. I'm looking at an 8'' wide wheel, does anyone have a suggestion for offset? i'm thinking 0 should work, IIRC for a 9.5'' rear -17 offset was recommended, so with basic maths in my head 0 offset should work.. i think?

The previous owner put these flares on, not me.. I think he cut the fenders out to far, the wheel gap is HUGE. I don't want to get bigger wheels because i enjoy the ones i have, but i'm wondering if there is a spring that will lower the car down about 1.5-2'' to make up this gap.

I'll give it a look tomorrow, there are a few splices near the center console where the radio was... oddly the PO had some switch in the large square near the hazard / defog switches.. There is a red wire coming from that area.. hmm i'll have to take a look

Okay, when i'm at the front of the car with my multi meter i do not get any power to the headlight plugs with the switch in #2 position When i checked the fusible links i had power going through them i had power going through my steering column switch when it was on #2 position \ i do not have any power in my fuse box for the the top two left hand side fuses, L & R i believe they were labeled

Okay, fixed most of the wiring and now im getting 11.5-12.5v coming from the coil wire into the dizzy, the teeth inside the dizzy are all broken off, Previous owner messed that up.. We even tried to hotwire it, no go. So im 90% sure its the dizzy. I ended up getting all of the gauges to work, Wipers now work too, squirts as well. Headlights are still down, I am not getting power to the harness for them, but i am getting power to and after the fusible links.. hmm.. Maybe bad ground? Also my right front turn signal (In the grill) Does not work, the bulb is dead.. On these older cars, if the bulb goes out, does the interior indicator bulb stop working too?

Word of advice, this is no easy task. I just did it on my car, about 25 hours of labor in total. - Frame rails completely cut out - Floors cut out - Frame rails replaced - Floors replaced - POR 15 everything - Ran permatex RTV sealant accross all seams - Followed that up with Fiberglass infused roof tar (this stuff dries rock hard) It is ALOT of welding, we used about 3lbs of mig wire Here's a couple pictures so you understand whats ahead of you (aligning frame rails in this pic)

There was a white wire with a red strip cut near the steering column ignition, A new wire was soldered between the cut (5'' length) There was another in that area too, but i cannot remember the color off the top of my head, this was 2 months ago. Next, on connector C-13 The yellow wire going to the starter was spliced in, And the Black wire going to the Oil pressure switch was spliced in, along with reverse lights. They all work according to the multimeter, reverse lights turn on, oil pressure builds when the car is cranking too. I'm not worried here. My underdash wiring block Was completely taken apart and everything was disconnected , all of the plugs matched up, except for 1 white and 1 black connector (however i think this is just for the AC / Heater according to the diagram) There was also 1 cut wire here as well, however i soldered that one back together (no extra wire needed) I was searching last night for a few hours, Another member had the same problem after his car was sitting for a few years. All of my problems may be ignition block related I took this photo months ago, when i was trying to figure out what the black and white connector went to, Just so happens that my ignition module is in the photo! And look at that, previous owner wiring job is visible, i think this might be the root of all my problems, and i found it on accident... edit: just looked at the FSM Engine electrical section on the ignition module, it is obvious the wires are in the wrong place... oh man i hope this is it

I guess before i do anything tomorrow i will be going through the entire car with some emery cloth and my multi meter, i'll try to write down the voltages of everything. One thing i forgot to mention, a few places were missing some wires, they have been replaced. Looking back i never checked the resistance of the new wires, could that be causing me trouble?

1. What ground wire are you referring to? Putting a regular ground strap wire on th ecar 2. Put the year of your car in your posts. Not everybody knows you have a 76. Different year cars are wired differently. 76 body, 77 engine 3. Where were you touching your leads to when you measured 1.5 VDC around your ballast resistor. (Pictures don't hurt, especially when you add arrows to point to things.) + positive going to the ballast resistor was only 1.5volts 4. Did you check your fusible links? DO NOT rely on visual inspections. Remove them and test resistance/continuity. All of my fusible links are brand new, each terminal was getting power 5. Did you take voltage readings at the fusebox? What were the results? Didn't get this far yet 6. Are you sure you used the proper rated fuses? Are you sure the fuses are still good? They're oem replacments from carquest numbers on the fuses match

I can't figure out why its only getting 1.5 to the ballast resistor, everything else works engine wise.. If anyone has some wisdom on why this would happen i'd appreciate it. Also on my way home i remembered that i forgot to run a ground wire to the engine.. could something this simple be the reason why it wont fire? Also, this next one confuses me.. Brake lights work when depressed, and when the car is on both light settings. Speedo lights work when the car is on first light setting, no other gauges turn on. All gauges turn on when lights are on the second setting. Running lights work on both first and second setting, headlights do not work at all Wipers do not work. all of my fuses have been replaced.

Looks like he didnt push the bottom in all the way, you can probably fix it yourself.. pull the cap off, removed the glue and reapply properly. Let it sit out in the sun for a few hours to get soft first though.

Doesn't show where the red hose leads to though =/

This happened in my rx7 once.. i kept it intact and just put the key back in, hit the key with a hammer, and turned it right out.

1976 280z, 77-78 engine EGR removed, no AC or heater This vacuum line was missing on my engine, it now has the red tube on it. Where is this supposed to go? i can't find it in the FSM or haynes manual. its located ontop of the intake manifold, the picture below shows where its general location is.. i think its a vacuum valve? that its attached to.

Just bought them, hopefully they arrive quickly EMS is usually 5 days for me here in NY.

To make it easier, i need sub harness labeled C-13 (top harness diagram) and the sub harness C-14 (bottom harness diagram)